Old Guns ......New Guns

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  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    The rust blueing just got moved back because of the pump brainfart. I really want to see how this works so maybe I will rush the new pump thing.
  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 22,292 Senior Member
    Old Ron said:
    Don't laugh ........this cabinet is going to work........or I will keep fixing it until it does.
    If that is stick on foam insulation around the door opening it may dissolve when the acid fumes hit it. Depends on what type it is. If it does, then rubber from an old tire cut into strips can be easily substituted.

    The acid fumes will attack the metal in the socket and bulb base eventually. Might want to consider one of these sockets with the enclosure and a rubber seal ring. As long as the clear enclosure is glass and has a rubber seal it doesn't have to be an explosion proof one. I've been trying to upload a pic for 30 minutes and this crappy forum software won't upload a 200 x 200 JPEG image.

    https://www.amazon.com/slp/explosion-proof-lighting/onh8wvqnno9e5ck


    Non Sibi Sed Patriage (Not for self, but country)



  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    In my collection of treasures I might have some of those glass covered lights.
    Another thing I want to add is wheels to the cabinet. Rolling stuff around is a lot easier than dragging. If I have glass over the lights then won't that cut down on the heat in the cabinet ? Hot & humid is what I need for even rusting .....right ?

  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 22,292 Senior Member
    Old Ron said:
    In my collection of treasures I might have some of those glass covered lights.
    Another thing I want to add is wheels to the cabinet. Rolling stuff around is a lot easier than dragging. If I have glass over the lights then won't that cut down on the heat in the cabinet ? Hot & humid is what I need for even rusting .....right ?


    Au contraire mon frere! The light inside the glass cover will still provide the same amount of heat, both by convection and conduction. The glass cover will heat up and radiate the heat into the cabinet very effectively. The main reason I suggest you use the covered light is for fire prevention. The acid will attack the metal in the socket and the bulb base, and also the wiring in the socket. You don't need no 'arcin' and sparkin' ' inside that wood cabinet!

    I learned the HARD way how aggressive acid in a hot humid environment will attack the metal parts of a light fixture. Just passing along some info that I found out when I made my first rust cabinet. Later, in nuke power, I learned how FAST concentrated sulfuric and hydrochloric acid would degrade stainless steel tubing and stainless steel valve bodies and valve stems. Even diluted fumes will eat metals like crazy. Think about it; if the diluted acid fumes and humidity will rust carbon steel overnight, just think about what it's doing to a metal light socket and metal bulb base!  I want your project to go smoothly without any need for reference to The Sailor's Book of Magic Words and Phrases! :D
    Non Sibi Sed Patriage (Not for self, but country)



  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    Oh I am listening Mike & will make your suggestions to the cabinet as I go. To me learning from other peoples experience is always the best way .....where I get in trouble is adding some of my ideas ! lol
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    GREAT NEWS !
    Just found & ordered all the parts I needed for the 97 C.
    Now I will have a C D & E complete.
    Contraption worked found parts & going to a fish fry . This is a really good day here in the old Ron fort !

  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 22,292 Senior Member
    Good deal on finding parts on that 97C. Should make a nice shooter when finished.
    Non Sibi Sed Patriage (Not for self, but country)



  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    It finally went my way. The food at the cook out was great & the people were nice company. It will be nice having all the parts on the 97s. They will be put together then set aside for dolling up at a later time. I haven't counted but I think there is around 12 to do. The winter months usually gives me time for that kind of work. It is tough when I want to do a gun project & have to stop & cut grass or do other things.
     ( like organizing )
  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 22,292 Senior Member
    I ordered a 10/22 80% receiver today, and a drill jig, and some other small parts. Might be a fun project for this winter when I need something to do to keep me out of trouble. :) I tend to get in trouble when I have nothing to do. I'm also going to do another .22 project this winter. I have some bolts for Springfield and Marlin .22 rifles hanging around that need a single shot receiver fabricated. Should be some more fun to keep me out of trouble. And if I feel frisky, I have a few centerfire bolts that would be suitable for maybe a .32 H&R single shot rifle or/and a .38 Special rifle.

    I have a stripped Win. 97 shotgun receiver that has seen better days. I might clean it up and sell it to someone that needs one. I just can't see spending the coin to buy all the parts to complete it.
    Non Sibi Sed Patriage (Not for self, but country)



  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    That is the hole I fell into Mike. 1/2 guns sitting is a waste of space . I had 1 full 98 & 1 80% -97 & 1 50% . I stuck in around $400 in parts to have 3 done. The money was bad enough but finding the parts was worse. It took a year to finally find all the parts needed. Seems like the barrel extension on a 97 is one of the most missing parts. Most want to sell barrel forend slide tube all complete.  Then boom you have 1 gun done & a pile of extra parts. & back to the races you go again.
  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 22,292 Senior Member
    Old incomplete guns will suck you in. You get one, start finding and buying the parts, and discover you've been sucked into the vortex of a money pit! :D Very similar to a boat; a boat is a hole in the water into which you shovel mass quantities of money!
    Non Sibi Sed Patriage (Not for self, but country)



  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    Boats & women are better rented than take them home. At least guns are quiet sitting in the corner. Oh ya & go up in value with age.
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    Well first 97 part came in today ! It is a Boyds forend. Looks good & is the 3 screw -17 groove so will look great.
  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 22,292 Senior Member
    I turned one of those forearms once out of a piece of seasoned black walnut once. I'd rather take a beating than do that again. Turning wasn't so much of a big deal; it was the boring out the hole for the mag tube and cutting out the forearm to fit the barrel that made me 'say words'. Seasoned black walnut isn't fun to work with; it's harder than woodpecker lips! Only thing worse is seasoned wild cherry, that I've worked with.
    Non Sibi Sed Patriage (Not for self, but country)



  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    That's why I broke down & just bought one.  That kind of work takes more talent & machines than I have. Not that I will never try it but not right now. I have 1 to cut the top grove in & have been thinking on that for a few months now. A dremmel tool might work with a saw blade on it. Polishing & blueing is a lot easier than working with wood.  I can make sawdust out of most kinds of wood !
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    Have been testing white steel gun parts. I polished them with a fine buffing compound & let them sit in the open air for months. No rust forms at all. Usually I buffed then cleaned then to the blueing tanks. Now I think I can do it in steps & not have to do so much back work all at one time. Always learning something.
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    Parts came today !
    After I jam some food down my neck & get cleaned up I will see if they fit.
    Then if all goes well .... then on the rack until winter.

  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    All the parts I bought fit just fine ......that's the good news.
    Bad news I thought I had a part & did but used it on another 97.
    Good news today found that part on line & it will be here in 5 days.

  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    It took a bit but actually got this together to go & shoot & see it it is a cool as seen on the net. May need to weight it a bit because I used plastic instead of steel.
  • RugerFanRugerFan Senior Member Posts: 1,446 Senior Member
    I bought 2 valve stems and an end.cap to try those. Now I've got to find that video again so I know what size drill bits to use
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    They said 5/16 in the bottle cap & 1/2 in the base cap . That didn't work for me. I used 1/2 in both . Put a dab of Vaseline on the rubber stem to make it easier to snap in. I pumped 1 up to 50 lbs. I have been letting it stand to see how much leaks off. Next trip to shop 2 & will take a few & see what really happens. Then I will try the chalk dust.
  • RugerFanRugerFan Senior Member Posts: 1,446 Senior Member
    Thanks
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    I think these could be fun for plinking. Was just thinking if you put 3 or so together if the one blowing up would blow up the others too. Bigger bang is always better ! lol
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    Since I finished mine up it has done nothing but rain here. ( kinda sucks )
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    Trying to see if all the parts are there for the forend on a Winchester 97 C .
    The top one is a D & the bottom one is a C. Seems to me that was a bad design & would break the froend wood real easily.....unless there are more parts to it. Is anyone in the know on this ?

  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    Best I can tell is the 3 screws hold the forend on & that's it.No wonder those break a lot. Steel gromits might help a bit. At least the came up with a better idea in short order. I think I will keep both for this gun. One original condition & the other for shooting it. Why bust up another forend when I have both on hand.It was made in 1903 so I guess they were tweeking it. I just looked up my 1873 44-40 & it was made in 1890 so I guess that is the oldest one I have found so far. Finding the year these were made can be another big project to try to do. A few at a time won't be bad as long as I don't loose the list.
  • earlyagainearlyagain Posts: 968 Senior Member
    At least they both should be nickel steel. Or is it nickle?
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    All I have seen so far is the 3 screws hold it together .
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    I have been ordering so many parts from different places I lost track of what is ordered & what I need yet. Time to work on other things & see what shows up at the front door.
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 1,677 Senior Member
    I probably should get that gun cabinet out of the back of my truck. Problem is where to put it. In the shop in my way is where it will end up most likely until I get it cleaned up & find a spot in my gun repair room. Then see how many guns I can stuff in a 8 gun cabinet. My guess would be about 12. At least then they will be out of the way & in one place until I can get to them.

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