686 locking up

JKPJKP Senior MemberPosts: 1,643 Senior Member
Shot my 686 some yesterday with a friend. He did most shooting and it locked up several times. He would fire a shot then try to cock the hammer and the cylinder wouldn't turn or open without a lot of twisting / hassle. The final time it locked up I brought it home and had to smack the cylinder with a hammer to get it open.

.357 mag ammo was used. I cannot get it to occur dry firing empty. Gun was clean and I did not observe any debris around or under the extractor.

What also can I check?
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Replies

  • breamfisherbreamfisher Senior Member Posts: 12,602 Senior Member
    Ejector rod coming unscrewed? It's reverse thread.

    Sent from my SM-S907VL using Tapatalk
    Overkill is underrated.
  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 16,827 Senior Member
    Ejector rod coming unscrewed? It's reverse thread.
    That was my first thought as well.
    Secondly, dirty chamber causing a fired case to be held back dragging against the recoil shield
    Third option, "Hot" loads
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


  • 104RFAST104RFAST Senior Member Posts: 1,177 Senior Member
    There is a recall for that issue, Its free including shipping. The gun comes back with a M after the model#
    The problem is the primers are backing out of the case and locking the cylinder, takes about 10 days
  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 16,827 Senior Member
    104RFAST wrote: »
    There is a recall for that issue, Its free including shipping. The gun comes back with a M after the model#
    The problem is the primers are backing out of the case and locking the cylinder, takes about 10 days
    Is this with the newer 686s?

    edited to add: NVM, I see it only applies to the 686 "no dash" and 686-1
    Both of mine are -3
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


  • earlyearly Senior Member Posts: 4,950 Senior Member
    A careful examination of the unfired cartridges after an unwanted lock up may help eliminate defective ammo as a possible cause as bullits jumping the crimp from recoil can cause lock up. Primer flow protrusion into the hole in the breech face where the firing pin goes through is also a potential cause. That model was repaired once under contract by S&W for the Customs Service for just such a failing.
    My thoughts are generally clear. My typing, not so much.
  • CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior Member Posts: 9,479 Senior Member
    Make sure the grip panels are not on too tight, my SP101 locked up because of that.
    I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 9,421 Senior Member
    You might try to scrub beneath the extractor star in case there's build up there.
    Not too many problems you can't fix
    With a 1911 and a 30-06
  • JKPJKP Senior Member Posts: 1,643 Senior Member
    Ejector rod coming unscrewed? It's reverse thread.

    Sent from my SM-S907VL using Tapatalk


    There is some looseness when I grab the cylinder and pull towards the rear of the gun.

    In this area:

    014082abced234654aadfc36fa8ec5eb.jpg
  • JKPJKP Senior Member Posts: 1,643 Senior Member
    104RFAST wrote: »
    There is a recall for that issue, Its free including shipping. The gun comes back with a M after the model#
    The problem is the primers are backing out of the case and locking the cylinder, takes about 10 days


    It is a no dash.
  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 16,827 Senior Member
    You might want to edit the complete serial number out of that pick.

    Just a thought
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


  • Big ChiefBig Chief Senior Member Posts: 30,712 Senior Member
    My 686 is a no-dash and I never sent it in for the fix.

    The only time it locked up on me was back in the 80s with some Blazer 158 grain JHP............it was HOT................no problems since then with any of my hot reloads or any full house factory stuff since.

    I thin there were other reports of that lot of Blazers back then being way over charged. I have fired newer Blazers since with no issues.

    However, I range test any ammo I put in it before I load it for SD.

    Could be simple as the crane coming loose/backing out.

    Is yours any early no-dash/model?

    What ammo were you firing? Have yo fired it before? Reloads or factory?

    I know Blue Dot had to be backed off some, I believe in reloads for the .357 here a couple years ago
    It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
    Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
    I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
  • Big ChiefBig Chief Senior Member Posts: 30,712 Senior Member
    OK, an M and no-dash. Wekk you can eliminate the mod from S&W now. Ammo or it just worked itself loose, which happens.
    It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
    Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
    I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
  • JKPJKP Senior Member Posts: 1,643 Senior Member
    knitepoet wrote: »
    You might want to edit the complete serial number out of that pick.

    Just a thought


    Doesn't really bother me. I've never heard of how someone could do anything with it.
  • zorbazorba Senior Member Posts: 15,688 Senior Member
    JKP wrote: »
    Doesn't really bother me. I've never heard of how someone could do anything with it.

    I don't know either, but its not paranoia if they really *are* out to get you!
    -Zorba, "The Veiled Male"

    Carry a 25 if it makes you feel good, but do not ever load it. If you load it, you may shoot it. If you shoot it, you may hit somebody, and if you hit somebody – and he finds out about it – he may be very angry with you. --Jeff Cooper
  • JKPJKP Senior Member Posts: 1,643 Senior Member
    Ammo was old UMC 125 grain 357 mag.
  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 16,827 Senior Member
    JKP wrote: »
    Doesn't really bother me. I've never heard of how someone could do anything with it.
    zorba wrote: »
    I don't know either, but its not paranoia if they really *are* out to get you!



    Someone gets it, then files a false report that "My S&W 686 sn _______ was stolen" And it gets entered into the system. If a cop or dealer ever runs your SN, they could 1) take your pistol and "return" it to the person that reported it stolen. 2) charge you with possession of stolen goods.

    Not a HUGE risk, but one easily negated with 30 seconds worth of photo editing
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


  • JKPJKP Senior Member Posts: 1,643 Senior Member
    knitepoet wrote: »
    Someone gets it, then files a false report that "My S&W 686 sn _______ was stolen" And it gets entered into the system. If a cop or dealer ever runs your SN, they could 1) take your pistol and "return" it to the person that reported it stolen. 2) charge you with possession of stolen goods.

    Not a HUGE risk, but one easily negated with 30 seconds worth of photo editing


    That's plausible. SN pic removed.
  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 16,827 Senior Member
    JKP wrote: »
    That's plausible. SN pic removed.
    :beer:
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 9,421 Senior Member
    knitepoet wrote: »
    Someone gets it, then files a false report that "My S&W 686 sn _______ was stolen" And it gets entered into the system. If a cop or dealer ever runs your SN, they could 1) take your pistol and "return" it to the person that reported it stolen. 2) charge you with possession of stolen goods.

    Not a HUGE risk, but one easily negated with 30 seconds worth of photo editing

    I've never heard of this in all my years as a LEO. I would appreciate references to this before I dismiss it as paranoia. Also dealers don't have access to NCIC on stolen firearms. The inefficent way it works as ANY serial number, regardless of make, is entered so a Ruby has the same as a 1911. Pages of interlocking SNs are recorded, since there is no indiscretion on model numbers.
    Not too many problems you can't fix
    With a 1911 and a 30-06
  • BufordBuford Senior Member Posts: 6,535 Senior Member
    I'm thinking Internet lore. I have paper work for every gun I have bought.
    Just look at the flowers Lizzie, just look at the flowers.
  • NNNN Senior Member Posts: 22,782 Senior Member
    So
    have any suggestions as to the problem been ruled out?
    I have a need for speed
  • Big ChiefBig Chief Senior Member Posts: 30,712 Senior Member
    Did the bullets pull in the cylinder charge holes making it hard to open/rotate?

    Have you looked at the cylinder gap between the forcing cone and the cylinder face......slid a feeler gauge between them and see what the gap is?
    It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
    Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
    I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
  • JKPJKP Senior Member Posts: 1,643 Senior Member
    Going to see about tightening ejector rod then go from there.

    Special too for grabbing it?
  • bisleybisley Senior Member Posts: 9,784 Senior Member
    My first thought is the problem I had with a Ruger Security Six that I owned. I mostly shot .38 Special lead ammo, and my cleaning was fairly superficial. I did not put particular emphasis on knocking out the carbon and lead ring that formed at the end of a .38 Special case, in each chamber. The cylinder would get tight and hard to shoot .357 magnum, because the cases were longer and pushed back against the frame. When I finally cleaned the chambers till they were smooth all the way through, it solved the problem.
  • WeatherbyWeatherby Senior Member Posts: 4,366 Senior Member
    I'm also not worried about posting a serial number.
    Any police report would have a latter date and then they could catch a real criminal.
  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 16,827 Senior Member
    Gene L wrote: »
    I've never heard of this in all my years as a LEO. I would appreciate references to this before I dismiss it as paranoia. Also dealers don't have access to NCIC on stolen firearms. The inefficent way it works as ANY serial number, regardless of make, is entered so a Ruby has the same as a 1911. Pages of interlocking SNs are recorded, since there is no indiscretion on model numbers.
    No Gene, but most dealers I know will run a serial# through the local PD before buying it, And in this state, pawn shops are SUPPOSED to
    Buford wrote: »
    I'm thinking Internet lore. I have paper work for every gun I have bought.
    Buford, is , "Not a HUGE risk, but one easily negated with 30 seconds worth of photo editing" that hard to understand?

    I didn't say it would, or even that it has. Doesn't mean it can't.

    There's a reason most firearm magazines X out some part of most serial numbers, especially in letter from readers
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 9,421 Senior Member
    knitepoet wrote: »
    No Gene, but most dealers I know will run a serial# through the local PD before buying it, And in this state, pawn shops are SUPPOSED to

    Buford, is , "Not a HUGE risk, but one easily negated with 30 seconds worth of photo editing" that hard to understand?

    I didn't say it would, or even that it has. Doesn't mean it can't.

    There's a reason most firearm magazines X out some part of most serial numbers, especially in letter from readers

    That's illegal if it involves NCIC. Not saying they don't do it, but for the operator doing NCIC, it's a felony. Running a # will get you hundreds of hits. In my state, it's caveat emptor. Of course, checking with the local PD will get you information not related to NCIC.
    Not too many problems you can't fix
    With a 1911 and a 30-06
  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 16,827 Senior Member
    Gene L wrote: »
    That's illegal if it involves NCIC. Not saying they don't do it, but for the operator doing NCIC, it's a felony. Running a # will get you hundreds of hits. In my state, it's caveat emptor. Of course, checking with the local PD will get you information not related to NCIC.
    Said NOTHING about NCIC, I said, and YOU EVEN QUOTED me saying, "..Will run the serial# through the local PD..."
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


  • Wambli SkaWambli Ska Moderator Posts: 25,422 Senior Member
    JKP wrote: »
    Going to see about tightening ejector rod then go from there.

    Special too for grabbing it?

    Nope, should hand tighten just fine but if it's loose you might want to consider some type of thread locker on it, just not a permanent one.
    "Attack rapidly, ruthlessly, viciously, without rest, however tired and hungry you may be, the enemy will be more tired, more hungry. Keep punching." General George S. Patton
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 9,421 Senior Member
    knitepoet wrote: »
    Said NOTHING about NCIC, I said, and YOU EVEN QUOTED me saying, "..Will run the serial# through the local PD..."

    I thought I made it clear. Apparently not. Your local PD will only have reports from those guns stolen and reported it that jurisdiction. In my case, maybe one a month and even then, most are not reported by SN. Pawn tickets are perused each week for serial numbers which are then run by NCIC.

    I don't remember the original picture of the 686 yoke, but typically the SN is on the butt of the gun, not the yoke. That is an assembly number plus the model number.
    Not too many problems you can't fix
    With a 1911 and a 30-06
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