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Thread: Ruger model 77

  1. #1

    Ruger model 77

    I was in the process of changing the factory action screws out for allen heads. Now I'm having problems getting them torqued right so the floor plate will open and shut right. The floor plate will shut easy and I can't get them to drop open or I can't get the screws times right and floor plates won't close. I'm sure I'm not the only one that gets frustrated with these. Any tips are welcome

  2. #2
    Senior Member snake284's Avatar
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    Re: Ruger model 77

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny reb View Post
    I was in the process of changing the factory action screws out for allen heads. Now I'm having problems getting them torqued right so the floor plate will open and shut right. The floor plate will shut easy and I can't get them to drop open or I can't get the screws times right and floor plates won't close. I'm sure I'm not the only one that gets frustrated with these. Any tips are welcome
    Take it back apart and try again. You've got something not quite lined up right.
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    Senior Member cpj's Avatar
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    Re: Ruger model 77

    If you mean by "times right" that you want them facing the same direction relative to each other and the gun, you will have to grind something for that to happen. So, just get them torqued and call it good.
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  4. #4

    Re: Ruger model 77

    I should of worded that different I'm not training to have the screws timed as in the same direction. I'm talking torqued the right way that the floor plate will open and close properly. I've spent over an hour messing with one rifle. I torque the front (angled) action screw first then back then middle. I know I'm not the only one that has ever had problems with Rugers action screws.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Big Chief's Avatar
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    Re: Ruger model 77

    Are you replacements too long, wrong size... different thread or should use a different torque value?
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    Senior Member orchidman's Avatar
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    Re: Ruger model 77

    Dont torque any screw up tight before you tighten the others.

    Had that same problem with the Ruger mod 77 in 204. All the instructions I read were to torque the action screw to the proper level then torque the rest. Doing it that way the floor plate locked up tight. After using the sailors book of cuss words a few times and adding a few extra words I experimented and finally solved the problem.

    Here is how I did it.

    Put all 3 screws in and turn them till they start to tighten. Give each screw a half turn starting with the middle one and moving back and forth till you get all of them tight by hand. Keep checking the floor plate as you do this. Then use your toque wrench on a lower setting on each screw starting with the middle one oand slowly increase the torque to the setting you require.

    The last one to torque up to the level required is the action screw.

    Hope this helps.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Teach's Avatar
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    Re: Ruger model 77

    The center screw needs to be just barely snug- - - -not torqued at all. I use purple Loctite on mine to make sure it doesn't fall out.
    Jerry
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  8. #8
    Senior Member early's Avatar
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    Re: Ruger model 77

    Is it possible that the floor plate problem has a cause other than the action screws?

    Do the new srews clear the floor plate and latch surfaces when closed?
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  9. #9
    Senior Member snake284's Avatar
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    Re: Ruger model 77

    I've had this happen on a couple of rifles. My old Model 70 for one. Like I said, I just took it apart and started over and everything finally lined up right.
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  10. #10

    Re: Ruger model 77

    The new screws came from Ruger and I have checked them with the old screws. They are the same length. I will try the way orchid an says. I have done like Ruger recommend with the front angled screw torqued down first then the rear and just barely snug on the middle. I have been doing 65 inch pounds on the front and playing around with between 20-50 on the rear and 5-25 on the middle. I k ow Ruger says 95 inch pounds on the front. All I have is a fat wrench and it only goes to 65. Which should be plenty with the aluminum pillars.

  11. #11
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    Re: Ruger model 77

    Quote Originally Posted by Teach View Post
    The center screw needs to be just barely snug- - - -not torqued at all. I use purple Loctite on mine to make sure it doesn't fall out.
    Jerry
    Yep.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Teach's Avatar
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    Re: Ruger model 77

    Just the opinion of an old fart- - - - -right, PC Patrol?

    Jerry
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  13. #13
    Senior Member snake284's Avatar
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    Re: Ruger model 77

    My old 1966 Model 70, like most bolt guns, has three screws. I never took it out .of the stock for like 20 years until I had it blued. I took it out of the stock myself and gave the bluer only the metal. When he finished it I put the barreled action back in. I had no clue and no torque wrench so I just tightened er up about the same on each screw. The first thing, the bolt was hard to operate. Second, it wouldn't hit a bull in the ass from 10 yards. I ask around and they asked me how I tightened the action bolts and was told just lightly torque the center bolt. I did as was suggested to me and it came back like it was before. Never put much torque on that center bolt. Just tighten it enough where it won't fall out. Just paint the bolt with loctite and leave it loose even. The front and rear bolts are what really holds the action.
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