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Thread: AR Help

  1. #1
    Senior Member Diver43's Avatar
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    AR Help

    While disassembling a AR, I am unable to get the castle nut to budge. I purchased it several years ago as a complete lower and have changed out the stock and other parts, but never removed the buffer tube. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
    Logistics cannot win a war, but its absence or inadequacy can cause defeat. FM100-5

  2. #2
    Moderator Wambli Ska's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    Heat. Try a hair drier or heat gun first but if the builder used locktite you might need more heat, maybe up to 400 degrees or so.
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    Senior Member Zee's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    A hammer.

    No joke. I’ve used a soft mallet to take several guns apart. Set the wrench tight and in the right place and whack the end of it a few times with a soft mallet. Works.
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith

  4. #4

    Re: AR Help

    A soldering gun to heat it and then apply force. Sometimes driving the nut loose with a punch and hammer works great.

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    Senior Member breamfisher's Avatar
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    Zee's hammer advice may be needed. Castle nut could be staked.

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    Senior Member Big Chief's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    I have read they can be real bear. Lots of places sell these type tools.

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod16882.aspx
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    Senior Member Big Chief's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    I'm probably about the last person on here to know much about ARs, but have read up on Castle-nuts and read and watched how they removed/installed/staked/thread locked them with loctite.

    A small witness mark/line might be a good idy with a marker so you can tell if one has loosened in use.
    Last edited by Big Chief; 01-14-2018 at 01:20 PM.
    It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Diver43's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    Heat, Hammer, maybe a bigger cheater bar.
    Was afraid to lean on it harder, but guess I will take it to a buddies shop and give it a go, he has a better vise and proper heating tool.
    Logistics cannot win a war, but its absence or inadequacy can cause defeat. FM100-5

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    Moderator Jayhawker's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Chief View Post
    I have read they can be real bear. Lots of places sell these type tools.

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod16882.aspx
    My wrench lasted one use before the teeth sheared off......
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    Senior Member Jay's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Diver43 View Post
    Heat, Hammer, maybe a bigger cheater bar.
    Was afraid to lean on it harder, but guess I will take it to a buddies shop and give it a go, he has a better vise and proper heating tool.
    I would avoid using a cheater bar if it’s that hard to get off. The lower receiver is cast aluminum and as such, will snap off with the right amount of twisting. Heat and impact will serve better than hard twisting.

    People who loctite or stake castle nuts on should be kicked in the yams repeadly until they see the error of their ways...

  11. #11
    Senior Member tennmike's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    Apply heat with a heat gun to the castle nut and squirt in some penetrating oil with the stock vertical. You should see the penetrating oil getting sucked in like when lead soldering copper tubing. Don't clamp the lower in the vise; clamp the buffer tube with good soft padding. A couple pieces of wood clamped and drilled to approximate diameter of buffer tube is great if you can do it.

    All spanner wrenches are NOT created equal. The ones sold for AR assembly/disassembly are generally NOT hardened. A trip to the local big box store should turn up a good single tooth spanner wrench that is hardened; the wrenches are generally less than $10 and well worth the money. Get the wrench tight and whack it with a mallet, and with the castle nut heated and lubed, it should break loose.
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  12. #12
    Senior Member Diver43's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    UPDATE

    Zee's advice about wacking with a nylon mallet worked. Jay, glad you said what you did about a cheater bar, because I was going to try that next.

    Once I got it apart I found that the detent take down spring was twisted and bent. Maybe that is why the rear pin has always been a little sticky.
    Either way easy fix as soon as I get a new spring.

    Not as easy as I thought, back order for Midway and Brownells. I'm off tomorrow maybe someone has one local
    Seems its always the easy stuff you cant get
    Last edited by Diver43; 01-14-2018 at 11:46 PM.
    Logistics cannot win a war, but its absence or inadequacy can cause defeat. FM100-5

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    Moderator Jayhawker's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Diver43 View Post
    UPDATE

    Not as easy as I thought, back order for Midway and Brownells. I'm off tomorrow maybe someone has one local
    Seems its always the easy stuff you cant get
    Check Palmetto State Armory...even if you buy a lower build kit...never hurts to have some spare parts laying around....
    Sharps Model 1874 - "The rifle that made the west safe for Winchester"

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    Re: AR Help

    Question, shouldn't you put some anti seize on the threads? Speaking of anti seize, I have read the kind with graphite in it will destroy aluminum parts. True?
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    Senior Member Diver43's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    Quote Originally Posted by BAMAAK View Post
    Question, shouldn't you put some anti seize on the threads? Speaking of anti seize, I have read the kind with graphite in it will destroy aluminum parts. True?
    Some use locktite, as for graphite don't know
    Logistics cannot win a war, but its absence or inadequacy can cause defeat. FM100-5

  16. #16
    Senior Member Jay's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Diver43 View Post
    UPDATE

    Zee's advice about wacking with a nylon mallet worked. Jay, glad you said what you did about a cheater bar, because I was going to try that next.

    Once I got it apart I found that the detent take down spring was twisted and bent. Maybe that is why the rear pin has always been a little sticky.
    Either way easy fix as soon as I get a new spring.

    Not as easy as I thought, back order for Midway and Brownells. I'm off tomorrow maybe someone has one local
    Seems its always the easy stuff you cant get
    Glad you got ‘er done. Impact usually works best on stuff like this rather than brute force.

    As for loctite, IMO there is no place for it on an AR. Or any gun, for that matter. A properly tightened castle nut will not come loose. No need for anti seize. The barrel nut is steel on aluminum. I used to use hi temp grease. I now use aluminum anti seize. Only down side is, once you open the container, that stuff magically gets on EVERYTHING......
    Last edited by Jay; 01-15-2018 at 03:29 AM.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Jay's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    Oh, Midway and others sell spare parts kits that should have your spring. It’s the same spring used on the front pivot pin. Get a spare parts kit and stash the other parts you don’t need for later. They’re like $10 or so.

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/22...ring-parts-kit
    Last edited by Jay; 01-15-2018 at 03:32 AM.

  18. #18

    Re: AR Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay View Post
    I now use aluminum anti seize. Only down side is, once you open the container, that stuff magically gets on EVERYTHING......

    When I worked in a car dealer we used to say that anti seize was the herpes of the automotive world. Now that I do electrical and use NOALOX on some terminations, I have found that it is just as bad.

    Copper anti seize is worse than the standard anti seize in my opinion. I still randomly get it on my hands when Im in the garage and I have not used any of it in a couple years. I keep the bottle in a bag outside so that it doesnt infect anything else in the garage and it still gets on things.

  19. #19
    Senior Member JasonMPD's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    A small dab of moly grease is all you should need. Torque it back to 40 ft-lbs and re-stake it. All will be good.

    As for cheap castle nut wrenches, I gave up on them a while ago. This is actually a wrench for a muzzle device, but dammit if it’s not the best castle nut tool ever.

    https://precisionarmament.com/produc...panner-wrench/
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  20. #20
    Senior Member Diver43's Avatar
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    Re: AR Help

    Thanks Jay, missed that one
    Logistics cannot win a war, but its absence or inadequacy can cause defeat. FM100-5

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