s&w k38 problem

30-30shooter

i recently bought a 1950 k38, and the single action pull only works about half the time, the other half the trigger slams forward and the hammer gos down without discharging the round. the double action works fine. i think it has something to do with the adjustable trigger stop. am i right? if so, how do you adjust it?

Gene L

Sounds like the notch on the hammer is damaged. The trigger stop only reduces trigger overtravel. (If we're talking about the same thing: if it's a screw inside the trigger, it is for overtravel.) Unscrew it all the way, it might help, otherwise you'll likely need to replace the hammer.

ThatMattGuy

Sounds like someone who did not know what they were doing decided they were an expert and went in and tried to play around with the trigger pull. Take it to a good gunsmith there is a lot going on in there if you do not know what your doing.

mkk41

Bring the hammer to full-cock. Without touching the trigger , push the hammer forward. If it jumps off the notch , the sear is worn , most likely be someone trying to do a trigger job .

30-30shooter

mkk41 wrote: »

Bring the hammer to full-cock. Without touching the trigger , push the hammer forward. If it jumps off the notch , the sear is worn , most likely be someone trying to do a trigger job .

tried it, the hammer flew forward and the cylinder turned. i have a feeling this is going to cost me.

Gene L

Not that much. New hammer. Getting it fit should be a snap for any gunsmith. The gun didn't so far as I know come with a trigger stop, so someone has been in its cookie jar before.

Big Chief

$ 53.10 for a hammer at Gun Parts Corp. They list two different ones, call for the right one for your M-14/K-38. Easy to replace if you can take your revolver apart/side-plate off etc etc. If not, take it to a gunsmith. Make sure it comes complete with firing pin in the hammer.

But first you gotta know if you need a new hammer.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=315390&catid=10027

gunrunner428

Not a mechanically difficult fix, but getting the sideplate off a S&W can be an exercise in finesse. If you're not experienced here, find a 'smith who is - I've seen older Smiths with burrs and dings in the finely-fit seam between frame and sideplate that can only be attributed to a heavy-handed approach to getting the thing off and on again.

30-30shooter

ill be taking it to my gunsmith tomorrow, while im there, would it be a smart thing to have it re-blued?

Gene L

A definite no on the re-blue. You'll have way too much money in the gun, plus ruin about half its resale value.

Getting the sideplate off a S&W is no problem. Just take a firm, non-metallic object, like the back end of a screw driver, and tap the opposite side of the plate and it pops right off.

breamfisher

Also, to add to Gene's comment... remove the sideplate over a folded towel. That way the plate lands on something nice and soft.

mkk41

Big Chief wrote: »

$ 53.10 for a hammer at Gun Parts Corp. They list two different ones, call for the right one for your M-14/K-38. Easy to replace if you can take your revolver apart/side-plate off etc etc. If not, take it to a gunsmith. Make sure it comes complete with firing pin in the hammer.

But first you gotta know if you need a new hammer.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=315390&catid=10027

If the notch on the hammer is buggered up , the mating surface on the trigger probably is too. Ya can't put metal back , so yer probably gonna need a hammer and trigger. Gunsmiths competant in S&W lockworks are getting hard to find. And those that are don't come cheap.

And since S&Ws change to MIM parts , the good old originals are getting scooped up.

calebib

If you buy a hammer and trigger, you can put it in yourself and it should function just fine. If you want the action smoothed up, you can try it yourself but it's something generally best left to the pros.

calebib

gunrunner428 wrote: »

Not a mechanically difficult fix, but getting the sideplate off a S&W can be an exercise in finesse. If you're not experienced here, find a 'smith who is - I've seen older Smiths with burrs and dings in the finely-fit seam between frame and sideplate that can only be attributed to a heavy-handed approach to getting the thing off and on again.

Make sure the gun is unloaded, remove the grips, remove all the side plate screws, with the cylinder closed hold the gun in one hand with the side plate parallel to the ground and cradled in the palm of your hand, rap the opposite side of the frame (right where it steps down to the grip area) with something hard but non-marring such as a plastic screwdriver handle or a plastic faced hammer. The side plate should pop right out and land safely in the palm of your hand after only a few taps.

wizard78

I know this might sound silly (because I can't explain why it occured) but I had a model 624 do a similar act when I bought it. Mine turned out, that the original owner had taken a lot of the tension off the hammer spring so double action had an easier pull. I don't know why single action was flaky but when I saw the tension screw out that far and tightened it up, (I was taking the over-sized grips off to take the side plate off) the action worked perfect. Take a look at the adjustment screw in the front of the frame in the middle of the front strap. Just a long shot.

mkk41

wizard78 wrote: »

I know this might sound silly but I had a model 624 do a similar act when I bought it. Mine turned out, that the original owner had taken a lot of the tension off the hammer spring so double action had an easier pull. I don't know why single action was flaky but when I saw the tension screw out that far and tightened it up, (I was taking the over-sized grips off to take the side plate off) the action worked perfect. Take a look at the adjustment screw in the front of the frame in the middle of the front strap. Just a long shot.

Very true , but the hammer of guns with the strain screw backed of still won't usually 'push-off' unless the hammer hook or sear nose has be rounded.