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shotgunshooter3
Posts: 6,112 Senior Member
I can't sharpen a knife with a stone worth a darn, alternatives?

Hey guys, I have a confession: I can't sharpen a knife using a whetstone, diamond, cement, car door, etc... To save my life. I don't know if I can't hold a steady edge or what, but I just can't seem to pull it off. What is a decent alternative for the sharpening impaired like me?
- I am a rifleman with a poorly chosen screen name. -
"Slow is smooth, smooth is fast, and speed is the economy of motion" - Scott Jedlinski
"Slow is smooth, smooth is fast, and speed is the economy of motion" - Scott Jedlinski
Replies
Thought about one of the fancy Chef eletric sharpeners...
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I bought a chef's choice vibratory sharpener a while back for my fish cleaning and kitcken knives but it's too slow. For my fish cleaning knives I use a carbide scraper type sharpener as it will sharpen a dinged up edge very fast. The drawback is that they wear away at the blade quite a bit with every use and your knives wear down pretty quick but most folks around here use commercial knives that aren't real fancy.
:that: Get the one that comes with the diamond stones, it works better for your harder steels.
Avoid those motor driven sharpers like the STDs. They will destroy a good hunting knife in a heart beat.
For my Leathermans and the like that I really have diffacult time using the Lansky system, I use the sharpeners that have two ceramic rods placed in a "V" and you just drive the blade across to sharpen.
I still use a stone and free hand to touch up a blade.
- Richard Henry Lee
i got one of the Lanskys sharpeners and they work fine. as long as you dont have a long blade that is or you need to move the clamping mechanism.
- Don Burt
http://smithsedge.com/products/product.asp?id=46&cid=4
Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
Harder metals are harder to sharpen, softer metals sharpen easily but do not hold an edge under heavy use.
I cheated many times with knives I really needed for serious use by taking those 4 or 5 knives to be sharpened by a knife maker, not as expensive as it may sound.
There's a guy at the flea market who sharpens knives, using a buffing wheel and rouge to finish. He knows what he's doing. I take my kitchen knives to him once a year, plus special blades, like my 1870s kukri.
Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
You are basicly sanding a fine grit over the edge of the blade and the finer the grit the finer the edge. Also, you have to get to the point of polishing at the end with 600 to 1200 grit.
Trick # 1 mark the edge with a black non permanent marker. If you are holding the edge at the correct angle you will polish away the marker.
Trick #2 Look down at the edge and reflect it in a stong light. If you can see light reflecting off it when it is verticle / perpendicular to the light, those are flat spots that need to be ground with a rougher stone. You can start with 200 grit or so to get out those flat spots. 200 grit will sharpen your edge like a mini serration and must be smoothed out with 600 to 1200 grit for polishing.
Trick #3 I sharpen each side with an even number of strokes to make sure I match. Five on the left then five on the right.
Trick #4 Use enough pressure with 200 grit to get an edge back , but when polishing with 600 to 1200 grit, move lightly. Once you have a sharp edge you simply keep it polished sharp.
FWIW.
D
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
This thing works pretty good. It won't sharpen as good as someone that knows how to use, and has the patience with a stone, but it works for me, for all my guttin and skinnin, and the price is right
Theres a bit of an art to sharpening with a stone. My oldest brother can do it. He can also put an edge on a Bear Razorhead or Snuffer broadhead that will take hair off if you even think of getting it near your arm. He's had many pass thru's with a 55# recurve..
When he does my broadheads, I put a little car wax on them and leave them in the quiver. The ones he did 5 years ago, I could pull out now and they are still wicked sharp....... Sigh, I need to find a place to hunt again. Like Orchid's blooding of his pre-64. I have a '60 Grizzly and '65 Kodiak I would like to take a deer with. They are my favorites and the only ones that survived my unemployment stint...
Kodiak
Grizzly... Also need to shoot more, when I get tired (like at the end of a 3D course) I short draw
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
-Mikhail Kalashnikov
http://www.waldofarmersandfleamarket.com/Waldo_flea_market_website/Home.html
It is an alternative.
Just don't speed in Waldo FLA, big speed trap.
Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
Learned young how to use a stone. Hold it firm and steady , and make like yer trying to shave the stone. Too low an angle will give a sharp , but weak edge that won't hold up. Usually a 15 degree per side is what most info says for best combo of sharpness and duribility.
To restore the proper angle , I like a good 11x2-1/2 Norton India stone. http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Combination-India-Stone-P69C25.aspx
Followed by a good hard Arkansas. http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Hard-Translucent-Arkansas-Bench-Stone-P50C25.aspx
Keep the stones WET with good stone oil , or you'll clog the pores and the stone will be useless. If using a diamond block , use plenty of water for the same reasons.
For the truly uncoordinated who can't hold an angle , use something like this. , http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-Knife-Sharpening-Guide-P11C16.aspx