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NN
Senior MemberNCPosts: 25,221 Senior Member
DA Revolver Check
NN
Senior MemberNCPosts: 25,221 Senior Member
Read another Intermedia Handgun magazine today and
was amazed that I had not thought of this simple function
check before.
Load the cylinder and close it, pull slightly back on the hammer
and rotate the cylinder fully to ensure all rnds are fully seated and
there are no high primers that would rub on the recoil shield and
stop the cylinder from turning.
Seems so simple and easy to do, however, I've never seen anyone
do it.
I started doing a similar check with SA revolvers after I bought that lead 9mm
that does not chamber well, but, of course that is done before closing
the loading gate.
These checks should be done esp in a carry revolver.
was amazed that I had not thought of this simple function
check before.
Load the cylinder and close it, pull slightly back on the hammer
and rotate the cylinder fully to ensure all rnds are fully seated and
there are no high primers that would rub on the recoil shield and
stop the cylinder from turning.
Seems so simple and easy to do, however, I've never seen anyone
do it.
I started doing a similar check with SA revolvers after I bought that lead 9mm
that does not chamber well, but, of course that is done before closing
the loading gate.
These checks should be done esp in a carry revolver.
Replies
Btw, I did see your carry option with your 29, that is a very versatile position for a fit individual. That would allow you to carry the same way, walking, driving, whatever.
I don't know maybe you could with some revolvers after all you live out west of yonder.
I was trying it with Rugers SP 101 & 100;
half cock was too far, it seemed more like 1/8 cock.
I do essentially the same thing by loading 5 of 6 or less and leave one or more empty chambers and start cocking and letting the hammer down with my thumb gently on empty chambers as I make sure the loaded charge holes rotate freely. Of course, you gotta know a S&W rotates counterclockwise and a Colt revolver cylinder rotates clockwise and keep it pointed in a safe direction. :guns::guns:
Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
BTW I see no need for the so-called hot loads that caused the issue to surface in the first place.Just want
to be sure it goes BANG if necessary.
Probably because 99% of factory ammo will have primers set at the proper depth, and reloaders should be doing their own QA for the same.
Never heard of such a thing. I would think that's not possible. What is the modification?
Been thinking about your comment and for the most part your right.
I see, on various forums, someone periodically having an issue with the cylinder
of a .357 being sluggish or actually jammed up. The response is invariably, clean the
revolver because there is a crud ring from shooting .38 spl.
I think this test would help those people find this issue before it ruins their day.
Also, it might enlighten them on what the recoil shield does and why it is ramped
on one side where the issue happens if it does happen, be it a high primer or a
rnd that won't slide back in place after a shot due to a crud ring.
Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!