I got one extra piece 14" long of that 3 1/2" CRS. I had enough for three pieces 14" long. I found the receipt for that stuff; I paid $24 plus tax for a piece of 3 1/2" steel 44" long. I'll see what they have, but I doubt they have any 4.5" diameter in cold rolled. I'll call you if they have any that size. They occasionally get in brass round stock cutoffs; you interested in that?
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
No. The hole in the barrel is just bigger than 1" by about 0.070" which is as far as I got with the boring bar before the brass pads on the steady rest went T.U.
But when I was finishing the drilling of the 1" hole on Tuesday(?) the drill got stuck and sheared off ALL FOUR of the 10-32 screws holding it in the extension shaft. :silly::silly: It would NOT come out with anything I tried. I had to drill a hole through the breech 3/8" dia. to knock the :cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss: stinkin' piece of :cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss:filthy drill bit out. I'll drill and then tap for a 1/2" x 13 plug, and weld it in place AFTER I contour the outside of the barrel.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
Got some really hard brass rod in 3/4" and 1" sizes. I'll break down the setup and cut some new pads out of it on the lathe. Scored a couple of pieces of really heavy wall pipe to make a new steady rest. They are 7" i.d. and 8" i.d. with 1" wall thickness. I have the rest of the stuff I need to make the other pieces parts. Those ball bearings are hiding somewhere; I haven't found them yet.
Also looked at an "interesting" piece of steel out in the steel yard. 24" diameter, 6" thick wall, and 6 feet long. A 12" bore SUPER MORTAR! Also had a 20 ft. long bar of 8" diameter hardened steel laying inside the building. I scratched the end with a carbide tipped lathe tool I took with me. That stuff would be a really not fun experience to try to bore a hole in. I could barely make a mark in it.
Anybody need some 1" diameter x 18" long bars of 'linear steel"? It looks chrome plated, but isn't and the guy in the office said it could not be cut with an industrial band saw; the blade just rubs on it and doesn't leave hardly any mark at all. He said the railroads use it for something. He bought around 800 bars of it for 11 cents a pound. Probably make some really efficient 30mm penetrator rounds in a brass sabot.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
As randy Travis said...since my phone still ain't ringin, I assume it still ain't you.
No 4.5" metal?
I calldided y'all at around 09:45 a.m. and got no answer. I DID leave a voicemail message, though. :tooth:
No 4.5" round bar. 8"round and 3.5" round was available, though.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
Make a sleeve for the last 6" or so of the barrel. Bore and surface-grind a 1" thick sleeve about .010" smaller ID than the OD of the barrel. Heat the sleeve, freeze the barrel, and jam 'em together quickly. Then contour things to hide the fact there's a sleeve in place. It will be as strong as a 1-piece breech.
Jerry
Make a sleeve for the last 6" or so of the barrel. Bore and surface-grind a 1" thick sleeve about .010" smaller ID than the OD of the barrel. Heat the sleeve, freeze the barrel, and jam 'em together quickly. Then contour things to hide the fact there's a sleeve in place. It will be as strong as a 1-piece breech.
Jerry
A sleeve could be made from a tie rod hydraulic cylinder. They're thick and tough steel. A 3.5" bore cylinder off a bulldozer would be a good choice.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
You guys ever look at McMaster Carr for stock? I know it's a bit pricier, but could get you to the range quicker.
Nah. Got a good bit of heavy industry in the area, and cutoff ends of stock are cheap for steel at 30 cents a pound retail scrap price. There's a hydraulic cylinder maker in town that sends their scrap to the place I go for steel. I've got some good deals on cylinder rods, aluminum round stock, and cylinders that they sell as scrap. I can find about anything I want in the scrapyard, or can buy new from inside the building, or order it and have it there in a few days. The place has three locations; if they don't have it, odds are I don't need it.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
Sealed ball bearings for the modified steady rest should be here either Wed. or next Monday. I found the ones I already had but they are needle bearings,and not sealed. They wouldn't last too long. I'll make the new parts for the existing steady rest tomorrow, and finish them when the bearings get here.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
Completed the ball bearing steady rest parts today. Not all that good a picture, but the ball bearing is in there on all three supports. Runs smooth as butter, too.
Also got 6 inches of the 12 inch bore bored out to golf ball size. I'll get the other half done by the end of the week.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
"A patriot is mocked, scorned and hated; yet when his cause succeeds, all men will join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." Mark Twain
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
Probably. Got to break down the boring bar setup and do the setup with the really long boring bar. I'm way past maxing out the ability of my lathe to do this, and having to make tooling. No such thing as an 18" long 1" diameter boring bar; well, not in my price range. Had to make that one myself, and the boring bar holder for it. Getting the bore done is the easy part; it's the outside contour work that will take a while.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
An M203 type golf ball launcher would have been nice, too bad golf balls are 42 mm, or an M79 would have been nice too.
"There is some evil in all of us, Doctor, even you, the Valeyard is an amalgamation of the darker sides of your nature, somewhere between your twelfth and final incarnation, and I may say, you do not improve with age. Founding member of the G&A forum since 1996
The CannonThunder link on the first page has some reasonably priced stuff, IMO, though it lacks the satisfaction of building it yourself. Dr.Who's comment got me thinking about using one of their golfball cannons on an M79 facsimile, anybody know if barrel length is a legal consideration when dealing with black powder? Looks pretty heavy, how bad do you think the recoil would be?
"Is 'milk bottle' literally a racist term?"
"It is now." - Jack Fraggs
The CannonThunder link on the first page has some reasonably priced stuff, IMO, though it lacks the satisfaction of building it yourself. Dr.Who's comment got me thinking about using one of their golfball cannons on an M79 facsimile, anybody know if barrel length is a legal consideration when dealing with black powder? Looks pretty heavy, how bad do you think the recoil would be?
Recoil with a golf ball projectile would be pretty nonexistent. Recoil with lead ball would be a bit more.
With non breech loading non rifled barrels, there are no real restrictions on barrel length or bore diameter. Muzzle loading cannon and mortars that are smooth bore are pretty much non regulated. If it loads from the breech with fixed ammunition and has a rifled or smooth bore barrel then Uncle Sugar has some major restrictions as to bore diameter and barrel length.
Barrel length is 10 inches.
Bore depth is 7 1/4 inches.
Overall length is 11 1/2 inches.
Bore is 1.690 inches.
Barrel O.D. is 3.375 inches.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
Thanks, I just wasn't sure if SBR regulations applied to shoulder fired muzzleloaders. If what I've read is correct, fixed cartridge ammunition brings about the majority of regulations, whereas loose powder and projectile are relatively unregulated. For example, modern mortars with the propellent contained in the projectile fall under the destructive devices designation, while a breech loaded cannon that uses separate projectile and powder would not. An extreme example would be 16" battleship guns that use separate bags of powder behind the projectile, though the amount of propellant required may throw a wrench in that idea. Plus it's just impractical and difficult to find a place to shoot. Of course this may all be incorrect, consult an NFA savvy lawyer or the ATF before proceeding too far.
Glad I found this thread, arfcom used to have a pretty good DD forum, then most of it got relegated to the archives and new posts are slow to arrive.
"Is 'milk bottle' literally a racist term?"
"It is now." - Jack Fraggs
Replies
― Douglas Adams
No. Way too little safety margin. I'll call you tomorrow when I get over there and walk the yard to see what he's got.
― Douglas Adams
Don't listen to him, cpj. He's a party pooper.
No. The hole in the barrel is just bigger than 1" by about 0.070" which is as far as I got with the boring bar before the brass pads on the steady rest went T.U.
But when I was finishing the drilling of the 1" hole on Tuesday(?) the drill got stuck and sheared off ALL FOUR of the 10-32 screws holding it in the extension shaft. :silly::silly: It would NOT come out with anything I tried. I had to drill a hole through the breech 3/8" dia. to knock the :cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss: stinkin' piece of :cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss:filthy drill bit out. I'll drill and then tap for a 1/2" x 13 plug, and weld it in place AFTER I contour the outside of the barrel.
― Douglas Adams
Also looked at an "interesting" piece of steel out in the steel yard. 24" diameter, 6" thick wall, and 6 feet long. A 12" bore SUPER MORTAR! Also had a 20 ft. long bar of 8" diameter hardened steel laying inside the building. I scratched the end with a carbide tipped lathe tool I took with me. That stuff would be a really not fun experience to try to bore a hole in. I could barely make a mark in it.
Anybody need some 1" diameter x 18" long bars of 'linear steel"? It looks chrome plated, but isn't and the guy in the office said it could not be cut with an industrial band saw; the blade just rubs on it and doesn't leave hardly any mark at all. He said the railroads use it for something. He bought around 800 bars of it for 11 cents a pound. Probably make some really efficient 30mm penetrator rounds in a brass sabot.
― Douglas Adams
I calldided y'all at around 09:45 a.m. and got no answer. I DID leave a voicemail message, though. :tooth:
No 4.5" round bar. 8"round and 3.5" round was available, though.
― Douglas Adams
Yeah I built one over 20 years ago, use 1-f black, no drill 36 hole for the fuse, brass pin for the fuse hole to clear n set.....
Beware and be safe, I just wet wad mine now for the noise and clean up the newspaper later.....
Make a sleeve for the last 6" or so of the barrel. Bore and surface-grind a 1" thick sleeve about .010" smaller ID than the OD of the barrel. Heat the sleeve, freeze the barrel, and jam 'em together quickly. Then contour things to hide the fact there's a sleeve in place. It will be as strong as a 1-piece breech.
Jerry
A sleeve could be made from a tie rod hydraulic cylinder. They're thick and tough steel. A 3.5" bore cylinder off a bulldozer would be a good choice.
― Douglas Adams
Nah. Got a good bit of heavy industry in the area, and cutoff ends of stock are cheap for steel at 30 cents a pound retail scrap price. There's a hydraulic cylinder maker in town that sends their scrap to the place I go for steel. I've got some good deals on cylinder rods, aluminum round stock, and cylinders that they sell as scrap. I can find about anything I want in the scrapyard, or can buy new from inside the building, or order it and have it there in a few days. The place has three locations; if they don't have it, odds are I don't need it.
― Douglas Adams
― Douglas Adams
:rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao:
― Douglas Adams
Also got 6 inches of the 12 inch bore bored out to golf ball size. I'll get the other half done by the end of the week.
― Douglas Adams
Sound like a question for your wife! :jester:
D
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
Probably. Got to break down the boring bar setup and do the setup with the really long boring bar. I'm way past maxing out the ability of my lathe to do this, and having to make tooling. No such thing as an 18" long 1" diameter boring bar; well, not in my price range. Had to make that one myself, and the boring bar holder for it. Getting the bore done is the easy part; it's the outside contour work that will take a while.
― Douglas Adams
― Douglas Adams
"It is now." - Jack Fraggs
Mortar completed, but no carriage built yet. Too cold to work in the shop, and I got sidetracked on some other stuff.
― Douglas Adams
"It is now." - Jack Fraggs
That's because Tennmike there is an honest to god, redneck genius.
One time he needed a backhoe.......so he built one.
"It is now." - Jack Fraggs
Recoil with a golf ball projectile would be pretty nonexistent. Recoil with lead ball would be a bit more.
With non breech loading non rifled barrels, there are no real restrictions on barrel length or bore diameter. Muzzle loading cannon and mortars that are smooth bore are pretty much non regulated. If it loads from the breech with fixed ammunition and has a rifled or smooth bore barrel then Uncle Sugar has some major restrictions as to bore diameter and barrel length.
Barrel length is 10 inches.
Bore depth is 7 1/4 inches.
Overall length is 11 1/2 inches.
Bore is 1.690 inches.
Barrel O.D. is 3.375 inches.
― Douglas Adams
Glad I found this thread, arfcom used to have a pretty good DD forum, then most of it got relegated to the archives and new posts are slow to arrive.
"It is now." - Jack Fraggs