Stuck lug nuts

roadking

Morning. Trying to change a flat on a trailer. Lugs are seized, trailer so light that the rim spins in the tire. Sprayed (read soaked) and let set several times...not any better. I'm about to head back (it is 8 miles away) with compressor and impact wrench. Should this not work, I'd be glad for suggestions.
No power where it is located, tire and tube half off rim, not fixable. Taking compressor and expansion tank, should be enough for four lugs, but who knows.
Also taking propane torch to try heating and cooling expand contract.
Input appreciated. BTW trailer has sat for a few years, and the only issue is this one tire.

Matt

Oh, used PB Parts Blaster as lube.

sherwood

I had that problem after my dealer worked on my truck. Torque specs are supposed to be 140"lb. Waaaaaaaaaaay over that. My impact wrench wouldn't budge them. I finally added a piece of pipe to the lug wrench and jumped on it to break them loose. Dealer swears that torque is 140"lb. He lies!

tennmike

3/4" drive breaker bar and socket with pipe over breaker bar to prevent tire/wheel rotation. Another 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket to remove/break off lug nuts. You may still end up with one lug nut stuck, though.

Fisheadgib

tennmike wrote: »

3/4" drive breaker bar and socket with pipe over breaker bar to prevent tire/wheel rotation. Another 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket to remove/break off lug nuts. You may still end up with one lug nut stuck, though.

This. If you have at least one lug nut off, goop the threads with motor oil and put that one back on and use it for the lug nut that you're holding the rim still with. The oil won't compress and you'll be able to get it back off reasonably easy. And a 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater pipe on it will work almost as well since most folks don't own anything over 1/2" drive.

Teach

Before heating anything, cut a BIG hole in the sidewall to vent any pressure that might build up inside the tire. It's not likely, but there have been instances of tires exploding with deadly force hours after welding or using heat on a rim. Something about chemical changes in the rubber that produce massive volumes of gases. At times, it's even happened with the tire deflated and the valve core removed from the stem.

The idea about pulling the hub is a good one- - - -you can take the whole assembly somewhere there's air pressure for an impact wrench, or even use a drill press to center-drill the studs and remove the wheel that way.
Jerry

tennmike

'Nother trick that will work in a pinch; I've done it and it works. Since you said the tire and tube are already half off, the rim is accessible. Make a loop in a nylon tow strap and slip that over the rim, and wrap a couple times. Tie or chain the free end of the strap to the trailer frame. Once tightened down tight, it will normally provide enough friction to keep the rim from turning as you loosen the lug nuts.

roadking

Great advice, thanks all...the 2 breaking bars sound like the ticket, since I'm only about 125...4 way with pipe didn't do to well. impact gun, not enough pressure in the woods, impact ratchet...sheared of the shaft...cheap harbor freight job.
One breaking bar and 3 pound maul got 3 off, 2 to go...will head back tomorrow morning. Think my 3/4 and 1 inch sets are still at my dad's shop 2 hours away.
Pulling the entire hub...dang, how'd I miss that! simplicity. If the breaking bars don't work, that is the next shot.
Thanks again.

Matt

heck what did I expect for a $50 pontoon boat trailer anyway...LOL!

BigDanS

roadking wrote: »

heck what did I expect for a $50 pontoon boat trailer anyway...LOL!

I believe you get what you pay for. Make sure to inspect the trailer frame for rust and "breaking" points. I have seen cheap trailers break in half when used in salt water. Even in fresh water the rust can eat up a thin frame.

I would suggest when you get it to your shop, remove all the lug nuts, then the hubs. Replace the bearings and repack. Grease the lugs ( both back and front) and reassemble. Check your springs and mounts too. While the electric lights are the most common thing to go, the springs can make a mess of everything.

D

roadking

That's the plan Dan. I already checked it out on site, going to need a little work, but actually very solid. Even the winches and sliding carrier work smooth.
Essentially, the guy's wife wanted it out of the yard since they didn't have the boat anymore, so the 50 bucks was more or less for show.

Matt

Teach

The wheel bearings will last a lot longer if you install a set of "bearing buddy" spring loaded dust caps with the grease fitting in the middle, but be sure and use the proper grease in the gun. Regular chassis lube doesn't have the temperature rating or the long-fiber compounds needed for wheel bearings. The springs keep a little positive pressure on the hub, and water or road grit can't find its way inside, particularly if the hubs get submerged while launching a boat after a long, hot highway drive. The only downside is a tendency for grease to find its way past the inner hub seal and get sprayed inside the wheel as it spins. A good hose-down at a coin car wash handles that little problem.
Jerry

snake284

Teach wrote: »

The wheel bearings will last a lot longer if you install a set of "bearing buddy" spring loaded dust caps with the grease fitting in the middle, but be sure and use the proper grease in the gun. Regular chassis lube doesn't have the temperature rating or the long-fiber compounds needed for wheel bearings. The springs keep a little positive pressure on the hub, and water or road grit can't find its way inside, particularly if the hubs get submerged while launching a boat after a long, hot highway drive. The only downside is a tendency for grease to find its way past the inner hub seal and get sprayed inside the wheel as it spins. A good hose-down at a coin car wash handles that little problem.
Jerry

I use buddy bearings on my boat trailer as most people do on a salt water boat trailer. When you pump grease in, it forces water out. I've had this boat and trailer for 7 years and never repacked the bearings. However, I have had professionals suggest that you still repack them annually. I haven't but it can't hurt.

Now, about getting those lug nuts unstuck. I thought you mentioned using an air impact wrench. That should do it. Even though it's light, an impact will break them loose before the wheel will roll usually. just sit on the tire while you use the impact. Also, I know you said you soaked the lug nuts, but did you use a real penetrating Oil? I like SOK for that kind of job if you can find any. And when you get them off, go to a hardware store or Fastinall and get you some ever Sieze. Coat the threads of the studs with the Never Sieze before putting the nuts back on.

roadking

Yeah snake, I used PB Parts Blaster penetrating oil. Love that stuff.
Was running it off a little portable compressor with an expansion tank...just didn't have the volume or pressure needed.
And yes, Neverseize has been in my toolbox since our old NASCAR and D.I.R.T. days, opposite side from the thread lock...lol!

Matt

Varmintmist

PB blaster and a 3lb hammer. Spray and beat. If that doesnt work, heat is a wonderfull thing.
Normally I go through everything you have, then get angry, put the breaker bar and Mike (Mike Pipe) on it and it comes or breaks.

zorba

Make sure they're not left hand threads!!!!!!

BigDanS

If you need air on the road a lot, invest in a scuba tank rig. 3000 PSI / 80 cu ft of air goes a long way. I haven't used my tanks to dive in years, but I have inflated tires and run a lot of air tools.

D

snake284

Just be careful and don't break it, get a bigger hammer!:rotflmao:

agewon

Heat the heck out of the nut and douce it with water. The instant cooling action breaks any corrosion adherence. Only problem is getting it hot enough with a propane tank.
I know this works because Weeks marine was pulling a crane motor off a dredge and "accidentally" dropped it in the ocean. It sat for a month at 150' until the dive team could get at it. We tried everything to break the case volts apart but along came my father with the torch and a gallon of water. What took my brother and I over an hour and a half to try an do took him five minutes.

centermass556

last time I took a breaker bar to bust some lug nuts, I twisted the bolts off.....Be carefull. After it was said and done, I twisted off two of five.

jbp-ohio

centermass556 wrote: »

last time I took a breaker bar to bust some lug nuts, I twisted the bolts off.....Be carefull. After it was said and done, I twisted off two of five.

Studs are easier to replace than breaking the nuts loose

centermass556

Yes...lol.

orchidman

Don't let a politician get anyhere near the lugnuts.........They will just screw it up.

Jermanator

agewon wrote: »

Heat the heck out of the nut and douce it with water. The instant cooling action breaks any corrosion adherence.

That works extremely well. And JBP is right-- I have snapped off studs before and they are a piece of cake to replace. If it breaks coming off, it breaks coming off. No big deal.

roadking

Yeah, going with the "breaking bar" first...either brake free or brake off. Easy to replace. if the soaking didn't loosen it up, pull the hub and bring to shop and open up the good tools. Oxy and acetelyne are cure alls, just don't like to play with fire in the woods. Especially with this fall and all the leaves.
Saw my friend that lined it up for me tonight...said the old guy tried everything he knew and never got an inch of movement. Guess I have the upper hand...LOL!
Good trailer and worth the price, just want it in the back yard to get it ready for spring.
Thanks for the ideas and advice. 6 am comes early around here.

Matt

roadking

Well, it's home!
Got one more lug off on site...other one no dice, couldn't even snap the stud. Had the breaking bars set up, and the one for the last lug on the jack...lifted the dang trailer off the ground.
Took the hub off, came home and noticed I'm getting low on oxy, so...air chisel to break her free...150 p.s.i. does wonders. got it off, lubed the threads and returned to the trailer. Put tire on, hooked up and rolled out.
Thanks for all the advice!

Matt

tennmike

Glad to hear you handled that little problem! Good you had the tools to make it happen. :up:

roadking

Thanks to the folks here...sometimes I have a brain stinker...appreciate the input. Made it work well.

Matt