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How to remove a stuck case in a resizing die?

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  • tennmiketennmike Posts: 27,457 Senior Member
    Good deal, Dan! Using a die to cut threads on the outside of a piece of steel is actually more easier, for me. Just have to make for sure and certain the die is started square to the piece to be threaded when you start. There's a few simple tricks to make that happen, though. Short pieces that can be held in a drill press chuck and the die flat on the table, and held with a wrench while hand turning the chuck is one.
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  • BigDanSBigDanS Posts: 6,992 Senior Member
    tennmike wrote: »
    Good deal, Dan! Using a die to cut threads on the outside of a piece of steel is actually more easier, for me. Just have to make for sure and certain the die is started square to the piece to be threaded when you start. There's a few simple tricks to make that happen, though. Short pieces that can be held in a drill press chuck and the die flat on the table, and held with a wrench while hand turning the chuck is one.

    Somewhere in my fantasies I will thread a barrel to take either a brake or other attachment.

    D
    "A patriot is mocked, scorned and hated; yet when his cause succeeds, all men will join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." Mark Twain
    Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
  • TeachTeach Posts: 18,428 Senior Member
    BigDanS wrote: »
    I will thread a barrel to take either a brake or other attachment.

    That's almost always a lathe operation, due to the necessity for a muzzle thread to be EXACTLY concentric with the bore. Even the slightest contact between a brake, suppressor, or flash hider and a bullet ruins accuracy.
    Jerry
  • tennmiketennmike Posts: 27,457 Senior Member
    Teach wrote: »
    That's almost always a lathe operation, due to the necessity for a muzzle thread to be EXACTLY concentric with the bore. Even the slightest contact between a brake, suppressor, or flash hider and a bullet ruins accuracy.
    Jerry

    :that: Some things absolutely require a lathes precision to accomplish. Brakes, barrel threading, suppressors, and other things have to have that precision to work as intended. The good thing is that running a lathe or mill is easy to learn; the bad thing is it takes a tractor trailer load of chips to get good at it. I'm still learning. :tooth:
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  • TeachTeach Posts: 18,428 Senior Member
    Speaking of hands-on learning- - - -our fledgling machinist trainee has been pretty quiet lately. I wonder if there's a surprise Franken-project coming out of Mozambique?
    :uhm:
    Jerry
  • stepmacstepmac Posts: 172 Member
    A broken shell remover will work. I've never tried it tho. I just heard it somewhere.
  • tennmiketennmike Posts: 27,457 Senior Member
    Teach wrote: »
    Speaking of hands-on learning- - - -our fledgling machinist trainee has been pretty quiet lately. I wonder if there's a surprise Franken-project coming out of Mozambique?
    :uhm:
    Jerry

    Good question. When I got my lathe back in the early 1980s, that meant I didn't have to beg time on someone else's lathe. I spent a LOT of time making chips when I got it set up. Took something pretty special to get me out of the shop on one of my days off. And then I got the mill, and later on, the metal shaper, and you couldn't remove me with dynamite!

    Something mighty peaceful about running them and making stuff you used to have to buy or pay others to do for you. I've lost track of time MANY a day in the shop. Walk outside and it's dark and I'm hungry. No wonder! I went into the cave around 9:00 a.m. and it's past 7:00 p.m.! :rotflmao: Time flies when you're doing something you love.
      I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer”
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