Custom Tikka T3 build and first range report

Jeff in TXJeff in TX Senior MemberPosts: 1,584 Senior Member
I was finally able to get my new Tikka build out to the range to see what she would do. I tried last week but the new Leupold V6 1-6 had such a bad parallax issue it was impossible to sight the rifle in. I had to send the scope back to Leupold to be re-calibrated.

As fate would have Chad called me this morning to see how the rifle shoots. I like a g-smith who follows up on his work. I was actually packing the car getting ready to head to the range when he called. Last night I took an older Ziess 4.5 - 14 off one of my other rifles so in case Leupold didn't get my scope back in time for opening day next weekend.

Chad Dixon at LongRifles Inc did the build. Chad used my Tikka T3 action as the foundation. As you can see from the range pics, he builds a true tac driver. This gun shot way beyond my expectations!

The build consisted of facing off the small transition on the front of the receiver
Blue printed and trued the bolt and action
Designed, cut and pinned a custom Remington style recoil lug that matches the outer contour of the T3 receiver
Installed a 22" 1:8 SS #3 Brux barrel for .243 win - threaded for my muzzle break/QD suppressor adapter
Pillar bedded into a LH McMillan Sako hunter stock with LongRifles Inc prairie sage camo pattern
Dark Earth Ceracoked the barreled action
Currently wears a Ziess 4.5-14 x 44mm Conquest scope with Warne quick detachable rings until the new Leupold is back from customer service.

DSC_0020.jpg

DSC_0023.jpg

Tikka2.jpg

Tikka1.jpg

1 3-shot group at 100 Yards
Tikka100yards.jpg

2 3-shot groups at 200 Yards
Tikka200yards.jpg
Distance is not an issue, but the wind can make it interesting!

John 3: 1-21

Replies

  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 20,616 Senior Member
    That'll work.

    Though, the Tikkas I've seen will do that right out of the box it seems. But, builds are fun. You get it the way you want it and that in itself is worth the effort. Builds are not always about accuracy.
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • DurwoodDurwood Senior Member Posts: 970 Senior Member
    Remind me to never post a group on this forum:jester:
    You have the right to your own opinion, but you don't have the right to your own facts:guns:
  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 20,616 Senior Member
    Durwood wrote: »
    Remind me to never post a group on this forum:jester:

    Hey, you were the reason I bought a Tikka in the first place. And.........the reason I want another. Well, one of the reasons I want another.
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • ojrojr Senior Member Posts: 844 Senior Member
    That looks really good, I truely do like that flat earth colour.
    Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
  • Ernie BishopErnie Bishop Senior Member Posts: 7,045 Senior Member
    Beautiful rig and a lefty to boot!
    He is not that far away from where I live.
    I have heard a lot of good things about him.
    Ernie

    "The Un-Tactical"
  • farm boyfarm boy Senior Member Posts: 987 Senior Member
    Nice looking rifle.

    Would someone point out to the special kid (me) where the muzzle brake is?
    I am afraid we forget sometime that the basic and simple things brings us the most pleasure.
    Dad 5-31-13
  • Jeff in TXJeff in TX Senior Member Posts: 1,584 Senior Member
    farm boy wrote: »
    Nice looking rifle.

    Would someone point out to the special kid (me) where the muzzle brake is?

    The picture I used has the thread cap on. Thank goodness I brought it. I shot it with the brake on and the suppressor earlier in the day. When I went to unscrew the suppressor it had seized to the brake and the brake unscrewed with suppressor attached. Not what I was expecting, but at least I had the thread protector cap. I had a dickens of time getting the brake and suppressor unscrewed from each other when I got home. I now know I’m going to have to use some anti-seize lube. I just have to figure out which type. Also, my suppressor is the break down type which means my end caps unscrew. I’m thinking I should only use the anti-seize lube on the brake threads for the suppressor attachment. Thoughts?


    Here’s a picture of the brake and suppressor after I got it off last night.
    Suppressor.jpg
    Distance is not an issue, but the wind can make it interesting!

    John 3: 1-21
  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 20,616 Senior Member
    What brake/suppressor combo are you using?
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • Jeff in TXJeff in TX Senior Member Posts: 1,584 Senior Member
    Zee wrote: »
    What brake/suppressor combo are you using?

    Both are made by a local North Texas builder Chuck Ross of Ross Precision Gunworks
    Distance is not an issue, but the wind can make it interesting!

    John 3: 1-21
  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 20,616 Senior Member
    Seems everybody and their dog makes a can these days.
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • Jeff in TXJeff in TX Senior Member Posts: 1,584 Senior Member
    Zee wrote: »
    Seems everybody and their dog makes a can these days.

    Yep, mine's titanium and to be honest at the time Chuck was about $300 cheaper than the other titanium suppressors on the market and just as quiet, so i thought what the heck and saved some bucks. It works well.
    Distance is not an issue, but the wind can make it interesting!

    John 3: 1-21
  • orchidmanorchidman Senior Member Posts: 7,731 Senior Member
    Jeff in TX wrote: »
    The picture I used has the thread cap on. Thank goodness I brought it. I shot it with the brake on and the suppressor earlier in the day. When I went to unscrew the suppressor it had seized to the brake and the brake unscrewed with suppressor attached. Not what I was expecting, but at least I had the thread protector cap. I had a dickens of time getting the brake and suppressor unscrewed from each other when I got home. I now know I’m going to have to use some anti-seize lube. I just have to figure out which type. Also, my suppressor is the break down type which means my end caps unscrew. I’m thinking I should only use the anti-seize lube on the brake threads for the suppressor attachment. Thoughts?


    Here’s a picture of the brake and suppressor after I got it off last night.
    Suppressor.jpg

    If you use some anti seize lube, try sticking a heat resistant 'O' ring the right size between the surfaces that mate together and tighten them down. It will act like a washer and provide enough friction to stop the 2 pieces unscrewing yet allow you to disassemble them easily.
    I use 'O'rings on my suppressors and just tighten them reasonably firmly by hand. Never had one come loose and never had a problem getting them off.
    Still enjoying the trip of a lifetime and making the best of what I have.....
  • timctimc Senior Member Posts: 6,684 Senior Member
    Sweet rifle Jeff but I would ask for my money back, that feller that built your rifle put the bolt on the wrong side!
    timc - formerly known as timc on the last G&A forum and timc on the G&A forum before that and the G&A forum before that.....
    AKA: Former Founding Member
  • RazorbackerRazorbacker Senior Member Posts: 4,646 Senior Member
    That rifle is a real thing of beauty but I don't recall ever seeing a brake and can used in concert. I guess the can goes on first?
    Teach your children to love guns, they'll never be able to afford drugs
  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 20,616 Senior Member
    ......I don't recall ever seeing a brake and can used in concert. I guess the can goes on first?

    It is very common. The brake is attached to the rifle and the can shrouds over the brake and either ratchets on or screws on, depending on the design. Surefire and Ops Inc. are two other examples..............among many.
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • jbohiojbohio Senior Member Posts: 5,508 Senior Member
    That's one sexy rifle! :drool2::love::love:
  • Jeff in TXJeff in TX Senior Member Posts: 1,584 Senior Member
    orchidman wrote: »
    If you use some anti seize lube, try sticking a heat resistant 'O' ring the right size between the surfaces that mate together and tighten them down. It will act like a washer and provide enough friction to stop the 2 pieces unscrewing yet allow you to disassemble them easily.
    I use 'O'rings on my suppressors and just tighten them reasonably firmly by hand. Never had one come loose and never had a problem getting them off.

    Interesting concept. Where do you get heat resistance O rings. How much POI change do you get each time you remove and install your can? Thanks for your insight!
    Distance is not an issue, but the wind can make it interesting!

    John 3: 1-21
  • ojrojr Senior Member Posts: 844 Senior Member
    Orchidman will undoubtedly come in soon,
    I get roughly a 2" drop on mine at 100yrds when using the supressor on a 6.5x55 and 140gr bullets.
    In line though.
    Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
  • Jeff in TXJeff in TX Senior Member Posts: 1,584 Senior Member
    ojr wrote: »
    Orchidman will undoubtedly come in soon,
    I get roughly a 2" drop on mine at 100yrds when using the supressor on a 6.5x55 and 140gr bullets.
    In line though.

    My can when on shoots 2 or so inches left and an inch low or somewhere in that general area However, it's never truly consist once I reattach it. I always need to check my zero. I wondering if the O ring would help with consistency?
    Distance is not an issue, but the wind can make it interesting!

    John 3: 1-21
  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 20,616 Senior Member
    Jeff in TX wrote: »
    My can when on shoots 2 or so inches left and an inch low or somewhere in that general area However, it's never truly consist once I reattach it. I always need to check my zero. I wondering if the O ring would help with consistency?

    It's the way the can shrouds and screws over the soft shouldered brake. That design you have is straight off the Jet Suppressor design. One I've played with and hated for the erratic POI shift.

    The way that brake is designed........it's impossible to have a consistent mating of brake and can unless you use a torque wrench set to the same inch pounds every time........and even then..........good luck.
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • ojrojr Senior Member Posts: 844 Senior Member
    I have an A-Tec muzzle forward design CMM4 or something, google it., It works well on my Finn light as it's not a high Volumn shooter
    I also have an over barrel that I haven't used in yonks, its just to heavy for the light rifle unless at the range as it is of stainless construction.
    Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
  • Jeff in TXJeff in TX Senior Member Posts: 1,584 Senior Member
    Zee wrote: »
    It's the way the can shrouds and screws over the soft shouldered brake. That design you have is straight off the Jet Suppressor design. One I've played with and hated for the erratic POI shift.

    The way that brake is designed........it's impossible to have a consistent mating of brake and can unless you use a torque wrench set to the same inch pounds every time........and even then..........good luck.

    Zee,

    This is my first can and I've learned a lot. Your statement on the design and shift on POI is painfully accurate. Next can we'll go a different route.

    Which can and attachment design have you used that provides consistent attachment and POI? Thx for your honesty.
    Distance is not an issue, but the wind can make it interesting!

    John 3: 1-21
  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 20,616 Senior Member
    Surefire, Op's Inc


    Jet, but only screwed straight into the barrel thread and up against the hard shoulder. After their brake fiasco, I ditched the brake and had them re-thread the can to match the barrel threads. But, I'll never use another Jet.

    Ops Inc and Surefire have been doing it so long.........they've worked out all the bugs. They are the best I've seen and used.
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • orchidmanorchidman Senior Member Posts: 7,731 Senior Member
    ojr wrote: »
    Orchidman will undoubtedly come in soon,
    I get roughly a 2" drop on mine at 100yrds when using the supressor on a 6.5x55 and 140gr bullets.
    In line though.

    My Sako 222 drops about 1.5" but also stays inline. The POI shift is so consistant that I have marked the scope adjuster so I can dial up/down to change the POI.

    Havent yet got the 204 threaded, that will happen after next weekend.

    For heat resistant 'O' rings, try these people............. http://www.sealseastern.com/viton.htm?gclid=CL6M0paHuboCFcFipQodpn8Afw

    The ones I get over here are made by the same company from memory. It needs to be a reasonably tight fit over the barrel threads so that it sits at the base of the thread.

    Edited to add: I neglected to tell you that although I like Tikka's 'out of the box' I do like what you have done to yours. Cool camo as well.
    Still enjoying the trip of a lifetime and making the best of what I have.....
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