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Jeff in TX
Posts: 2,641 Senior Member
Custom Tikka T3 build and first range report
Jeff in TX
Posts: 2,641 Senior Member
I was finally able to get my new Tikka build out to the range to see what she would do. I tried last week but the new Leupold V6 1-6 had such a bad parallax issue it was impossible to sight the rifle in. I had to send the scope back to Leupold to be re-calibrated.
As fate would have Chad called me this morning to see how the rifle shoots. I like a g-smith who follows up on his work. I was actually packing the car getting ready to head to the range when he called. Last night I took an older Ziess 4.5 - 14 off one of my other rifles so in case Leupold didn't get my scope back in time for opening day next weekend.
Chad Dixon at LongRifles Inc did the build. Chad used my Tikka T3 action as the foundation. As you can see from the range pics, he builds a true tac driver. This gun shot way beyond my expectations!
The build consisted of facing off the small transition on the front of the receiver
Blue printed and trued the bolt and action
Designed, cut and pinned a custom Remington style recoil lug that matches the outer contour of the T3 receiver
Installed a 22" 1:8 SS #3 Brux barrel for .243 win - threaded for my muzzle break/QD suppressor adapter
Pillar bedded into a LH McMillan Sako hunter stock with LongRifles Inc prairie sage camo pattern
Dark Earth Ceracoked the barreled action
Currently wears a Ziess 4.5-14 x 44mm Conquest scope with Warne quick detachable rings until the new Leupold is back from customer service.
1 3-shot group at 100 Yards
2 3-shot groups at 200 Yards
As fate would have Chad called me this morning to see how the rifle shoots. I like a g-smith who follows up on his work. I was actually packing the car getting ready to head to the range when he called. Last night I took an older Ziess 4.5 - 14 off one of my other rifles so in case Leupold didn't get my scope back in time for opening day next weekend.
Chad Dixon at LongRifles Inc did the build. Chad used my Tikka T3 action as the foundation. As you can see from the range pics, he builds a true tac driver. This gun shot way beyond my expectations!
The build consisted of facing off the small transition on the front of the receiver
Blue printed and trued the bolt and action
Designed, cut and pinned a custom Remington style recoil lug that matches the outer contour of the T3 receiver
Installed a 22" 1:8 SS #3 Brux barrel for .243 win - threaded for my muzzle break/QD suppressor adapter
Pillar bedded into a LH McMillan Sako hunter stock with LongRifles Inc prairie sage camo pattern
Dark Earth Ceracoked the barreled action
Currently wears a Ziess 4.5-14 x 44mm Conquest scope with Warne quick detachable rings until the new Leupold is back from customer service.
1 3-shot group at 100 Yards
2 3-shot groups at 200 Yards
Distance is not an issue, but the wind can make it interesting!
John 3: 1-21
John 3: 1-21
Replies
Though, the Tikkas I've seen will do that right out of the box it seems. But, builds are fun. You get it the way you want it and that in itself is worth the effort. Builds are not always about accuracy.
Hey, you were the reason I bought a Tikka in the first place. And.........the reason I want another. Well, one of the reasons I want another.
Reuters, Dec 2020.
He is not that far away from where I live.
I have heard a lot of good things about him.
"The Un-Tactical"
Would someone point out to the special kid (me) where the muzzle brake is?
Dad 5-31-13
The picture I used has the thread cap on. Thank goodness I brought it. I shot it with the brake on and the suppressor earlier in the day. When I went to unscrew the suppressor it had seized to the brake and the brake unscrewed with suppressor attached. Not what I was expecting, but at least I had the thread protector cap. I had a dickens of time getting the brake and suppressor unscrewed from each other when I got home. I now know I’m going to have to use some anti-seize lube. I just have to figure out which type. Also, my suppressor is the break down type which means my end caps unscrew. I’m thinking I should only use the anti-seize lube on the brake threads for the suppressor attachment. Thoughts?
Here’s a picture of the brake and suppressor after I got it off last night.
John 3: 1-21
Both are made by a local North Texas builder Chuck Ross of Ross Precision Gunworks
John 3: 1-21
Yep, mine's titanium and to be honest at the time Chuck was about $300 cheaper than the other titanium suppressors on the market and just as quiet, so i thought what the heck and saved some bucks. It works well.
John 3: 1-21
If you use some anti seize lube, try sticking a heat resistant 'O' ring the right size between the surfaces that mate together and tighten them down. It will act like a washer and provide enough friction to stop the 2 pieces unscrewing yet allow you to disassemble them easily.
I use 'O'rings on my suppressors and just tighten them reasonably firmly by hand. Never had one come loose and never had a problem getting them off.
AKA: Former Founding Member
It is very common. The brake is attached to the rifle and the can shrouds over the brake and either ratchets on or screws on, depending on the design. Surefire and Ops Inc. are two other examples..............among many.
Interesting concept. Where do you get heat resistance O rings. How much POI change do you get each time you remove and install your can? Thanks for your insight!
John 3: 1-21
I get roughly a 2" drop on mine at 100yrds when using the supressor on a 6.5x55 and 140gr bullets.
In line though.
Reuters, Dec 2020.
My can when on shoots 2 or so inches left and an inch low or somewhere in that general area However, it's never truly consist once I reattach it. I always need to check my zero. I wondering if the O ring would help with consistency?
John 3: 1-21
It's the way the can shrouds and screws over the soft shouldered brake. That design you have is straight off the Jet Suppressor design. One I've played with and hated for the erratic POI shift.
The way that brake is designed........it's impossible to have a consistent mating of brake and can unless you use a torque wrench set to the same inch pounds every time........and even then..........good luck.
I also have an over barrel that I haven't used in yonks, its just to heavy for the light rifle unless at the range as it is of stainless construction.
Reuters, Dec 2020.
Zee,
This is my first can and I've learned a lot. Your statement on the design and shift on POI is painfully accurate. Next can we'll go a different route.
Which can and attachment design have you used that provides consistent attachment and POI? Thx for your honesty.
John 3: 1-21
Jet, but only screwed straight into the barrel thread and up against the hard shoulder. After their brake fiasco, I ditched the brake and had them re-thread the can to match the barrel threads. But, I'll never use another Jet.
Ops Inc and Surefire have been doing it so long.........they've worked out all the bugs. They are the best I've seen and used.
My Sako 222 drops about 1.5" but also stays inline. The POI shift is so consistant that I have marked the scope adjuster so I can dial up/down to change the POI.
Havent yet got the 204 threaded, that will happen after next weekend.
For heat resistant 'O' rings, try these people............. http://www.sealseastern.com/viton.htm?gclid=CL6M0paHuboCFcFipQodpn8Afw
The ones I get over here are made by the same company from memory. It needs to be a reasonably tight fit over the barrel threads so that it sits at the base of the thread.
Edited to add: I neglected to tell you that although I like Tikka's 'out of the box' I do like what you have done to yours. Cool camo as well.