Bore Paste Treatment

ironduke

I mentioned this in another thread, and was asked about it so I'll elaborate on it in a seperate thread to make it more search friendly.

Problem: Very rough bore in my new Savage rifle. The bore was so rough I could push a wet patch down it with some effort, but I couldn't pull it back thru. The drag on the patch would hold it in place while my jag pulled free. This made scrubbing the bore impossible.

Another gent at the range volunteered his JB Bore paste and technique, which helped A LOT!!

This is what he used:
http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=39515/Product/J_B_Bore_Cleaner

The technique he showed me was to
1) take a bore brush, and wrap it with a cleaning patch, which he then coated with a layer of the paste.
2) I then pushed it down the bore until it just barely poked out past the crown. Then I pulled it back thru. This was done for 20 back and forth strokes (20 down and 20 back).
3) then push the patch out the muzzle where it can be unscrewed and not dragged back thru the reciever.
4) Remove the patch from the brush. The patch was solid black! Gross!!
5) Next a new patch was wrapped around the brush. This one was soaked with a 50/50 mix of Shooters Choice and Kroil, which he had in an old Hoppes squirt bottle.
6) This patch was pushed thru the bore and the brush was unscrewed at the muzzle end. This patch was filthy.
7) The brush was screwed back on and a dry patch was pushed thru. It came out kinda gray.

It is noteable that by this time the bore was noticeably smoother than when I started, and all this was done in less than 5 minutes.

8) Next I shot 5 rounds.

A new patch was put on my brush and soaked with his Shooters Choice/Kroil mix to clear the fouling. I pushed it thru once and took it off at the muzzle to prevent pulling it back thru the bore.

Repeat Steps 1-8, but shoot 10 rounds. I only had 5 rounds left to shoot so that's all I did.

After the last 5 rounds were shot, I put on a patch soaked with Montana Xtreme and easily scrubbed the bore. Seriously, the bore feels as smooth as any I have. I allowed the bore to soak in the Montana Xtreme for 4-5 minutes and easily pushed a dry patch thru. It came out with only the faintest traces of fouling after 5 rounds.

The guy told me that If I had more ammo, I would repeat the process one more time with a 20 shot string followed by one last treatment. So basically, the bore would be scrubbed with the Paste covered patch a total of 4 times. That is as smooth as the paste will make the bore, the guy said, so any more than that is just useless.

I can't speak for every barrel of course, but this treatment seemed to work like a charm for this barrel. I will be using this technique on factory barrels going forward. It seems it may save a heack of a lot of time in breaking the barrel in and reducing cleaning time.

Hope my instructions are easy to understand.

BPsniper

I have never tried JB Bore Paste but I know a few guys that do. They like it.

DanChamberlain

Plus, it leaves the bore minty fresh.

Dan

ironduke

LOL Minty fresh! LOL!

Linefinder

I've tried three different borepastes and in order of preference they are...

1) KG Industries KG-2 Bore Restore
2) Iosso Bore Paste
3) JB Bore Paste (Blue lettering, not Red).

The Iosso paste is a bit finer than JB, and the KG-2 is finer than Iosso. Nothing wrong with JB, though. For routine maintenance, I just prefer the finer textured pastes.

Mike

Teach

I've used a similar procedure, only with a lead slug poured around a worn-out .22 caliber brush. The abrasive can be anything from automotive valve grinding compound to any of the metal-polishing products I use in preparation for a bluing job mixed with Kroil or gun oil. The lead slug follows the rifling exactly, and the abrasive smooths out any machining roughness left over from the rifling operation.
Jerry

jbohio

Oh, man, IronDuke. You've no idea. My newest Savage fouls horribly. I'm gonna do this treatement post haste. I'll try to do a follow up on this thread, afterward.

ironduke

jbohio wrote: »

Oh, man, IronDuke. You've no idea. My newest Savage fouls horribly. I'm gonna do this treatement post haste. I'll try to do a follow up on this thread, afterward.

That will be cool. I want to see how your experience goes.

jbohio

My biggest problem right now is finding the Kroil.....I've been meaning to get some, but haven't. Probably because I can't find it locally. Gonna have to order it and the JB.

BPsniper

Brownell's is where I get mine.

ghostsniper1

Gotta agree with Teach. I was gonna recommend any rough gritted rubbing compound run through on some patches.

snake284

DanChamberlain wrote: »

Plus, it leaves the bore minty fresh.

Dan

Are you sure you didn't get the JB mixed up with the Crest?

jbohio

BPsniper wrote: »

Brownell's is where I get mine.

Yeah, I know. It just seems like BS to have to pay for shipping on something like that. Seems like somewhere locally ought to have it. Stupid shotgun state.:bang:

Linefinder

Kroil is often found at Ace Hardware. And......I don't know this for a fact, but Marvel Mystery Oil seems to me to be so similar to Kroil that I'd think you could use it interchangeably, considering that you'll be flushing it out of the bore anyway. I know you can find that at pretty much any auto parts store.

Mike

Teach

Nothing out there compares with Kroil. It's made by Kano Industries in Nashville, Tenn. and you can order direct from the manufacturere and avoid the outrageous markup most resellers put on it. I buy mine a gallon at a time, direct from the home office in Nashville.

www.kanolabs.com

Jerry

Jermanator

Linefinder wrote: »

Kroil is often found at Ace Hardware.

I have seen it at hardware stores myself.

tennmike

The method Teach speaks of is a time honored method for polishing a bore. The oiled lead slug takes up the compound well, and polishes all the nooks and crannies in the lands and grooves since it was poured to the dimensions of the rifling. Only thing that has to be watched is that the lead slug is not allowed to exit either muzzle or pulled out of the rifling at the chamber. Marking the cleaning rod with a piece of masking tape will prevent the latter. The lead slug method is advantageous in that if the bore is really rough, and the lead slug becomes worn, it can be melted off the brush and re-poured. Also allows for use of different size grits easily.

If you have a milsurp rifle with a rough or dark bore, this method will put some new life into that rough bore, and cut down on lead or copper fouling. Clean the bore first with a good lead or copper solvent, and then pour the lead slug and get to work. That little bit of 'sweat equity' will pay off!

bruchi

I was taught to "break in barrels" using hte JB bore light version and Kroil, shoot 3 rounds, a patch of JB a patch of Kroil, shoot again, do this 5 times, then 2 groups of 5 shots using the JB and Kroil between groups, 25 shots total, I did that to a Rem 700, mi brother's DPMS and a buddy's Bsuhmaster, rifles shot great after this but so does the Sig 516, the Spikes and the Tikka T3 which I just shot our of the box or got used and have no clue if a break in was done on them.

Still local "bench rest" shooters with the very expensive rigs will clean their barrels with Shooter's Choice, Sweets, Kroil, etc., every 3-5 shots and all claim this to be mandatory, guess the guy that sells the ubber expensive stuff here has them well trained as he is the only one that carries some of those products and sells them at ridiculous prices.