Very cool. Nothing quite like self-manufacturered ammo components!
“There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.” – Will Rogers
Too bad there aren't dies and supplies to make primers and primer compound. I'd be all over that in a heartbeat!
And the aerial view of your house after a loading mistake near a bulk purchase of primer compound...
“There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.” – Will Rogers
What bullet is that? I cast a lot of the RCBS 98swc for the wife's 32 H&R single six.
It's a Lee #90301 double cavity mold. 100 grain bullet. The Lee website says it's a .311 diameter mold, but my bullets all come out of it at .313 to .3135 diameter.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
"A patriot is mocked, scorned and hated; yet when his cause succeeds, all men will join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." Mark Twain
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
What lube are you going to use? They have some good recipes for lube on the bollit casting forum. The two that I have used are Ben's red and 45-45-10. Have never used either one in a rifle but seem to do well in 9mm and 45 auto.
Refusing to conform to the left wing mantra of political correctness by insisting on telling the truth does not make you a loud mouth.
It's a Lee #90301 double cavity mold. 100 grain bullet. The Lee website says it's a .311 diameter mold, but my bullets all come out of it at .313 to .3135 diameter.
Looks like a pretty good bullet. I like a number of Lee's handgun moulds.
Too bad there aren't dies and supplies to make primers and primer compound. I'd be all over that in a heartbeat!
I think getting a die made (or making one) would be doable. I am not familiar enough with the ingredients of priming compound to even guess about that. I think it would be a neat project though.
Reason obeys itself; and ignorance submits to whatever is dictated to it.
"A patriot is mocked, scorned and hated; yet when his cause succeeds, all men will join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." Mark Twain
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
Modern non-mercuric primers are made with lead styphnate- - - - -no clue how to home brew that stuff. Bullet lube is easy- - - -a toilet wax ring, some automotive chassis grease, paraffin, and a double boiler made from an old saucepan and a coffee or tomato juice can. I can make bullet lube that's good to 2000+ FPS for a couple of dollars, enough to lube several hundred bullets.
Jerry
I cast some bullets for large volume use. I never size these. I simply use LEE ALOX tumble lube. I then sprinkle and tumble with Motor-Mica. This gives the lubed bullet a soft finish easy to handle. Cast bullets that are used for velocities of 1,500 FPS or less do not need gas checks.
So mercury, nitric acid, and ethanol? That is very doable.
Mercuric primers ruin brass. After a reload or two, the brass will get brittle enough to split after being exposed to mercury-based priming compound.
Jerry
I am not so interested in it for the cheapness or otherwise, I am curious that if it can be done by someone with half a brain and if it would shoot ok. We know for certain that a flint lock or match lock with home made black powder can be done without too much trouble. Bullets, jacketed bullets, and solid copper bullets can be made. How far can a relative layman go in a workshop?
Reason obeys itself; and ignorance submits to whatever is dictated to it.
I am not so interested in it for the cheapness or otherwise, I am curious that if it can be done by someone with half a brain and if it would shoot ok. We know for certain that a flint lock or match lock with home made black powder can be done without too much trouble. Bullets, jacketed bullets, and solid copper bullets can be made. How far can a relative layman go in a workshop?
Mercury fulminate is VERY sensitive to static charge. It is also VERY sensitive to pressure. Made some in an advanced chemistry class. As long as it is wet it is workable. Once it dries, it's a bomb waiting to go off for no apparent reason at all. Lead styphnate isn't really hard to make, but the chemicals to make it are nasty, and a couple are hard to come by. You may have to make them yourself, and the making is also nasty. Full face mask with organic filters time.
I make my own bullet lube with the same recipe that Jerry uses. Good stuff, and cheap to make.
Sizing and lubing will be done in the Lyman Lube Sizer. I'll size these to .312 for .32 S&W Long and .32 H&R Mag. I also have the size die and top punch for .311 for .32 ACP bullets I cast. They are 70 grain pills.
I use the same .312 size die with a different top punch for .303 British.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
What lube are you going to use? They have some good recipes for lube on the bollit casting forum. The two that I have used are Ben's red and 45-45-10. Have never used either one in a rifle but seem to do well in 9mm and 45 auto.
Ben's Red will do quite nicely for rifles - it's what Ben seems to use it for mostly himself. I've gone with an extra 5% beeswax in it - just seems too gooey otherwise.
Modern non-mercuric primers are made with lead styphnate- - - - -no clue how to home brew that stuff. Bullet lube is easy- - - -a toilet wax ring, some automotive chassis grease, paraffin, and a double boiler made from an old saucepan and a coffee or tomato juice can. I can make bullet lube that's good to 2000+ FPS for a couple of dollars, enough to lube several hundred bullets.
Jerry
I use this lube in the .45 ACP bullets I cast. I pan lube. Since using this lube I've had no detectable leading with my own slugs, none. The commercial cast bullets would lead a little, but Mr. Jerry's lube works well.
And for those wondering, it's not a sizing issue between my slugs and the commercial ones. I've measured representative samples of both (20 each) and they all were the same size.
It's a Lee #90301 double cavity mold. 100 grain bullet. The Lee website says it's a .311 diameter mold, but my bullets all come out of it at .313 to .3135 diameter.
Don't or can't you run them through a Lyman Luber-sizer- die that brings them down to final desired diameter?
It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
That's what I do, Big Chief. I've got a lot of money tied up in Lyman Lube Sizer dies and top punches. I like the Lee sizers for pre-lubed bullets, but they only offer .311 and .314 sizers for .32 cal. The .311 is fine for .32 ACP and .314 for some of the old .32 cal. cartridges, but I've found that .313 is the right size for my .32 cal. Ruger Single Six and my old .32 cal. revolver that shoots .32 S&W Long.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
If you check the .32 caliber Ruger bore you will get a .308. Ruger uses the same barrel on their .30 Carbine revolvers. The forcing cones run .310. If you use a .309 cast you will get good accuracy at lower pressures.
Gary Reeder pistol smith recommends .308-.309 in all .32 caliber revolvers.
If you check the .32 caliber Ruger bore you will get a .308. Ruger uses the same barrel on their .30 Carbine revolvers. The forcing cones run .310. If you use a .309 cast you will get good accuracy at lower pressures.
Gary Reeder pistol smith recommends .308-.309 in all .32 caliber revolvers.
I go by what gets printed on the target downrange. .312 is what works for me. .311 gives me leading in forcing cone and barrel.
Edit to add: I also get good accuracy from the unsized .313 bullets in the Ruger and the .32 long revolver.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer” ― Douglas Adams
Ben's Red will do quite nicely for rifles - it's what Ben seems to use it for mostly himself. I've gone with an extra 5% beeswax in it - just seems too gooey otherwise.
That's the only that I didn't care for was the gooey part. I only have a little left and will add more bees wax next time.While I'm at it I'm going to try some of Mr. Jerry's recipe.
Refusing to conform to the left wing mantra of political correctness by insisting on telling the truth does not make you a loud mouth.
Modern non-mercuric primers are made with lead styphnate- - - - -no clue how to home brew that stuff. Bullet lube is easy- - - -a toilet wax ring, some automotive chassis grease, paraffin, and a double boiler made from an old saucepan and a coffee or tomato juice can. I can make bullet lube that's good to 2000+ FPS for a couple of dollars, enough to lube several hundred bullets.
Jerry
Is there an amount for each ingiedient or do you just mix equal parts?
Refusing to conform to the left wing mantra of political correctness by insisting on telling the truth does not make you a loud mouth.
I've tried a couple of times to load .308 bullets in .32 Mag. Here's what happens when you try to put a .308 bullet into a properly sized unflared .32 Long or .32 Mag. case. The only thing that keeps it from falling to the bottom is because the brass thickens toward the case head.
Is there an amount for each ingiedient or do you just mix equal parts?
Melt one toilet wax ring and about 2-3 tablespoons of general-purpose automotive chassis grease, NOT disc brake wheel bearing grease in the double boiler. Disc brake grease has too high a melting point to mix well without getting the mixture hotter than the boiling water bath can do. Add paraffin such as candle wax or jelly sealing wax from the canning supplies aisle at Wally World. Hot weather- - - -more paraffin. The idea is to make a stiff mixture that will fill lube grooves well. Either set a bunch of bullets base down in a shallow pan and pour the melted lube around them, then cut the bullets out of the hardened lube with a drilled-out straight wall brass case. If you use a lube-size machine pour the melted mixture into the cavity of a Lubersizer where the lube stick would normally go. I can get 4-5 fillings of my Lubersizers with one batch of home brew lube- - - -total cost about 3 bucks! When toilet rings are on sale at the local big box store like Lowe's of Home Depot, I stock up! One grease gun tube of chassis lube will make 10 batches of lube or more. If bright colors crank your tractor, use those tapered dinner candles in whatever color you like to stiffen the mix.
Jerry
If the lube does not melt in the bore what good is it? Hard lube for high pressure high heat. Something like SPG for lower pressure lower heat applications. Lubes that cling to bullets in flight are not conducive to accuracy.
Replies
― Douglas Adams
And the aerial view of your house after a loading mistake near a bulk purchase of primer compound...
It's a Lee #90301 double cavity mold. 100 grain bullet. The Lee website says it's a .311 diameter mold, but my bullets all come out of it at .313 to .3135 diameter.
― Douglas Adams
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
Looks like a pretty good bullet. I like a number of Lee's handgun moulds.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercury(II)_fulminate
D
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
Jerry
Mercuric primers ruin brass. After a reload or two, the brass will get brittle enough to split after being exposed to mercury-based priming compound.
Jerry
Mercury fulminate is VERY sensitive to static charge. It is also VERY sensitive to pressure. Made some in an advanced chemistry class. As long as it is wet it is workable. Once it dries, it's a bomb waiting to go off for no apparent reason at all. Lead styphnate isn't really hard to make, but the chemicals to make it are nasty, and a couple are hard to come by. You may have to make them yourself, and the making is also nasty. Full face mask with organic filters time.
I make my own bullet lube with the same recipe that Jerry uses. Good stuff, and cheap to make.
Sizing and lubing will be done in the Lyman Lube Sizer. I'll size these to .312 for .32 S&W Long and .32 H&R Mag. I also have the size die and top punch for .311 for .32 ACP bullets I cast. They are 70 grain pills.
I use the same .312 size die with a different top punch for .303 British.
― Douglas Adams
Ben's Red will do quite nicely for rifles - it's what Ben seems to use it for mostly himself. I've gone with an extra 5% beeswax in it - just seems too gooey otherwise.
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
And for those wondering, it's not a sizing issue between my slugs and the commercial ones. I've measured representative samples of both (20 each) and they all were the same size.
Don't or can't you run them through a Lyman Luber-sizer- die that brings them down to final desired diameter?
http://ads.midwayusa.com/find?dimensionids=4294846309&newcategorydimensionid=5671
Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
That's what I do, Big Chief. I've got a lot of money tied up in Lyman Lube Sizer dies and top punches. I like the Lee sizers for pre-lubed bullets, but they only offer .311 and .314 sizers for .32 cal. The .311 is fine for .32 ACP and .314 for some of the old .32 cal. cartridges, but I've found that .313 is the right size for my .32 cal. Ruger Single Six and my old .32 cal. revolver that shoots .32 S&W Long.
― Douglas Adams
Gary Reeder pistol smith recommends .308-.309 in all .32 caliber revolvers.
I go by what gets printed on the target downrange. .312 is what works for me. .311 gives me leading in forcing cone and barrel.
Edit to add: I also get good accuracy from the unsized .313 bullets in the Ruger and the .32 long revolver.
― Douglas Adams
That's the only that I didn't care for was the gooey part. I only have a little left and will add more bees wax next time.While I'm at it I'm going to try some of Mr. Jerry's recipe.
Is there an amount for each ingiedient or do you just mix equal parts?
(Click on picture to enlarge.)
― Douglas Adams
Thanks would appreciate it.
Melt one toilet wax ring and about 2-3 tablespoons of general-purpose automotive chassis grease, NOT disc brake wheel bearing grease in the double boiler. Disc brake grease has too high a melting point to mix well without getting the mixture hotter than the boiling water bath can do. Add paraffin such as candle wax or jelly sealing wax from the canning supplies aisle at Wally World. Hot weather- - - -more paraffin. The idea is to make a stiff mixture that will fill lube grooves well. Either set a bunch of bullets base down in a shallow pan and pour the melted lube around them, then cut the bullets out of the hardened lube with a drilled-out straight wall brass case. If you use a lube-size machine pour the melted mixture into the cavity of a Lubersizer where the lube stick would normally go. I can get 4-5 fillings of my Lubersizers with one batch of home brew lube- - - -total cost about 3 bucks! When toilet rings are on sale at the local big box store like Lowe's of Home Depot, I stock up! One grease gun tube of chassis lube will make 10 batches of lube or more. If bright colors crank your tractor, use those tapered dinner candles in whatever color you like to stiffen the mix.
Jerry