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MileHighShooter
Posts: 4,997 Senior Member
Front loaders - step inside and sit a spell
MileHighShooter
Posts: 4,997 Senior Member
Alright, I'm ordering my .50 barrel for the T/C on Monday. Could use some insight from you BP guys as to what all I need to buy to get ready. Keep in mind, I CAN NOT use pelletized powder, or sabots. I have the Hornady prairie stuff,TC Maxi balls, and Power belts. Thinking of starting with Buckhorn powder. I do not need huge 120+ gr mag charges, open sights only so my shots should be under 100 yards. I'm still trying to figure out all the kit I'll need to buy. I have no clue how to go about starting into black powder, but I need to figure this out right quick.
Replies
Since you're not using round balls it will simplify the stuff you need to carry somewhat.
Powder horn or flask,( even if you use pre-measured loads) powder measure, short starter,caps and something to carry caps( I've used a leather capper that holds a half dozen caps for decades, so it doesn't need to be anything fancy) a spare utility ramrod (longer than the one provided with the rifle - used for cleaning and loading in camp) (I usually will use the ramrod under the barrel for reloading in the field). Mark both ramrods so you're sure your projectile is sitting on the powder charge). You ought to have a cleaning jag, spare nipple, nipple wrench with a nipple pick. I don't see the need for a ball screw since you're using a maxi-ball...cause if you dry ball that thing...you're hosed - only way you're going to get it out is to blow it out...normally done by removing the nipple and working powder through the touchhole with a nipple pick. ( Or you can get one of those fancy CO2 ball removers.) Something to carry all your stuff in. That ought to about do it....
If it's a Thompson Encore it should have a removable breech plug so removing stuck projectile, recommend taking a breech plug wrench and bang it out the breech.
If it's an inline, you can get really good results from fake black, like 777. I've never used any of the other synthetics, but have used 777 in many of my sidelocks (I don't own any inline rifles).
Real black powder is good as well - actually, it's the best when it comes to shot to shot consistency, but can be darn difficult to find in some locations.
You can't use sabots, so you need a hunting bullet that has dimensions suitable for your caliber and twist rate. Contact TC and find out what they recommend.
For an inline, you don't need a ton of stuff. You're not trying to recreate Davy Crockett, so you don't need the powder horn and any good small pack will allow you to carry whatever "possibles" you have to bring along. If you're loading "pre-loads" you won't need a flask. But I like to carry my powder in a flask anyway. Don't load directly into the bore from the flask. You have a grenade in your hand! Pour into a measure, and then drop down the barrel.
Once you've poured your "measured" charge the first time and seated your bullet "firmly" but not pounded, onto the powder charge, mark your ramrod at the muzzle to know subsequent shots are properly seated. We do this because fouling can often make subsequent loadings harder and we want to know that we've succeeded in placing the base of the bullet on the powder charge.
Your first shot from a clean barrel will not shoot into the same group subsequent shots develop from a fouled barrel. Since muzzleloading is normally a "first shot" proposition, I only pay close attention to where my first shot goes. Subsequent shots help me to develop a consistent load, but I actually "sight" my gun for the first shot from a clean barrel. Some like to sight for a fouled bore and they fire a fouling shot before they begin the hunt. Each to his or her own.
If you're using real black, you will need to swab your bore every few shots. I like to use a three shot rule. Even though you have a removable breech, there's no need to remove it to swab your bore. If you have a cleaning jag, swabbing your bore is as easy as wetting a patch in your mouth, and running it down the bore a couple of times, followed by a dry patch or two. Then go back to shooting.
It's not rocket science. It's a calming style of shooting. Slow down. Expect disappointments and study them to find out why something isn't working. Most of all, find other muzzleloaders and engage them. If they are traditionalists, don't expect that they will show a great deal of interest in your inline, but I'd expect that they will share information with you.
If you do it correctly, I personally expect that one day you will spend money on a flinter, just because that's the way the world turns.
Dan
Jerry
That is why I bought a .54 years ago. We were putting in for a CO Elk ML tag every year. Never drew one though