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Learn me on folding knives
Been looking to get a new pocket knife and reading the reviews on some sites, there are ALOT of knife snobs. Ill admit that as long as its sharp and will hold up, its good enough, but now im wanting a little more.
Right now i have a Gerber and a Kershaw. Both are about 10 years old and heres what i like, the Gerber is well built and solid. Its taken a beating over the years and still opens the same. That being said, it still opens stiff. Not nearly as fluid as the Kershaw i have. And the Kershaw blad is RAZOR sharp, but feels cheaply made. Very light but i dont get that good feeling about durability.
Im looking to get an assisted open, and needs to be functional and easy to sharpen with water stones. NOT looking for tacti-cool or anything thats going to make me look like a wannabe. What say you?
Right now i have a Gerber and a Kershaw. Both are about 10 years old and heres what i like, the Gerber is well built and solid. Its taken a beating over the years and still opens the same. That being said, it still opens stiff. Not nearly as fluid as the Kershaw i have. And the Kershaw blad is RAZOR sharp, but feels cheaply made. Very light but i dont get that good feeling about durability.
Im looking to get an assisted open, and needs to be functional and easy to sharpen with water stones. NOT looking for tacti-cool or anything thats going to make me look like a wannabe. What say you?
Replies
I deliberately chose a smallish knife, and one that's slender, so the model I have ain't fer bear fightin' y'know. It's not fancy either, just black finish and small.
Understand that "assisted opening" knives may in some states be judged as "switchblades" and therefore illegal. So be careful depending on where you live.
I think that Kershaws are a pretty good bargain generally, not perfect but worth the money and not overpriced.
This.
And I'll add Spyderco and CRKT to the list.
Recoil is how you know primer ignition is complete.
George Carlin
Sir! Sir!
Got mine;
My current favorite EDC is a modified Spyderco Endura.
I think you posted a photo of it, looks very handy. :up:
Not a UK Friendly Carry as is but modified.............:yikes:
http://www.bladeops.com/Benchmade-581-Barrage-AXIS-Spring-Assist-Knife-Pl-p/ben581.htm
I will fear no evil: For I carry a .308 and not a .270
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1978319879/laserlyte-pistol-bayonet-ka-bar-mini-survival-knife-serrated-stainless-steel-blade-with-quick-detachable-picatinny-style-mount-and-polymer-sheath?cm_vc=ProductFinding
:tooth:
Wow, you would unzip someone in a SD situation with one of those.
Ummmm.....no. Not really.
I have a handfull of Case's and a BenchMade plus a drawerfull of kitchen knives that'll match him cut for cut.
This video is somewhat sleight of hand. I do it myself, all the time, when demonstrating the difference between a "sharp" blade and a" not sharp" blade to the uninitiated. (The reason is being teaching the lesson that a sharp blade is safer than a not sharp blade.) The manner and angle at which he holds the media is very conducive to allowing a blade of moderate sharpness to "grip", and therefore, "cut". "Slashing" ( meaning forward and downward motion) cuts against a media of moderate resistance don't require much of a degree of sharpness.
Forgetting teaching the uninitiated, and forget the fact that a "razor sharp" blade is pretty much useless unless you shave with your knife.....the ultimate test that I've found for a blades sharpness is to get a sheet of yellow legal paper (hardly any resistance at all) , and using only a "push" motion (no "sawing" or other motion allowed) split the blue line in half. If you wind up with an equal amount of blue on each side of the cut.......well......you've done well.
This is impressive as crap even to us (and I consider myself one) that know how to sharpen knives to an incredibly scary edge. But.....that's also a pretty useless edge. The first bone you hit will turn it into something not much sharper than a paper clip.
A knife should only be as sharp as required to do it's intended task. More than that is detrimental. Unless, of course, you take knife sharpening to the same degree as benchrest shooting. If so, all bets are off.
Mike
N454casull
http://www.jaysknives.com/kershawDWO/KershawODGreenLockBack.jpg
I'm guessing something like this
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479417/spyderco-delica4-trainertactical-folding-knife-275-aus-6-stainless-steel-training-blade-polymer-handle-red?cm_vc=ProductFinding
NRA Life Member
It is all in the link.
https://www.gov.uk/find-out-if-i-can-buy-or-carry-a-knife
The up and down is,
'' non locking blades with a blade length of 3" or less '',
old-fashioned pen ( pocket ) knife really.
'' A court will decide if you’ve got a good reason to carry a knife if you’re charged with carrying it illegally.''
It is illegal to:
''use any knife in a threatening way (even a legal knife........)''
Hmmm................. that may include Zee's emergency tracheotomy procedure.
There are quite a few types to choose from, all UK Legal, I just like the blade shape on mine.
Looking around now for a stud to fit the blade, see how it works with just the thumb.
Like this;
If you see any on your travels let me know, I will send you two 5/- shilling postal order to cover the cost.
:jester:
The scale of the photo may have given you a bum steer.
It is in fact a two handed knife...............:tooth:
WOOT has Kershaw Ken Onion on sale fer $34 toady.
Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
Depends on the knife, really. I have BenchMade folder, a couple Case Ridgebacks, and four Mercer kitchen knives that that will hold an edge like that for a really long time. With the exception of the BenchMade, these are all moderately priced knives that perform well outside their price range.
OTOH, I have 3 Kiwi kitchen knives that I paid less than $4 each for. They will actually get sharper than any of the aforementioned blades, but against anything tougher than a cucumber the edge folds like butter. The nice part is, though, that the steel is so soft that 2-3 swipes on a smooth steel and you're back in business slicing over ripe tomatoes paper thin.
I'm not a knife snob from a price/looks standpoint, but I am pretty particular about which knife does what task. When big game hunting I'll have the Case Trapper for general work, the Ridgeback for skinning, the BenchMade for heavier cutting, and an Estwing hatchet for the really tough stuff. The Rigebacks have the finest edge, the Trappers next, then the BenchMade with a less refined edge for heavier/bone contact.
The kitchen knives are pretty much mission specific also, with the blade honed to the degree necessary for the task.
As an aside, if you're in the market for kitchen knives, check out Mercer Cutlery. Most of their knives will be in the $30-$40 range and IMO, are the best deal going on blades right now. I wish they made hunting type knives. They would possibly replace my beloved Ridgeback skinners.
Mike
N454casull
No.
Not really.
This is though.
Wirral Cricket Club three all out in Cheshire League match;
http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/cricket/27177518
''Ten Wirral Cricket Club batsmen were out for ducks, only the number 11 troubled the scorers, with the other runs coming from two leg byes.''
My local borough team. :bang:
My EDC is a locking blade Victoronix, my max on a knife is about $30-40, easier to sharpen is more what I am looking for, but that usually means it dulls faster, the Kershaws and SOG's are on sale here and there, I have a pile stashed for graduation gifts, got to get the kids used to packing a knife daily at a later age.
I just have some stainless kitchen stuff from a DU Banquet, easy to sharpen stuff again. Hunting knives are Buck or Schrade, I have to putz with those to get them sharp, JB Ohio touched them up nice after working on his elk.
I hold Victornix steel in high regard. Most of the real working knives in my sister's flower shop are Victornix. They'll take a fine edge and hold it much longer than you'd expect it to. One of the things that impresses me about Victornix's floral knives is that the blade is beveled on only one side, and flat on the other. This makes touching up the edge a snap....ten seconds without even really paying attention and you're back in business. I've often wondered why other knifemakers haven't picked up on this "single bevel" concept. There may be some knife chores that require a double bevel, but truth is.....I can't think of one offhand. And it sure makes sharpening a whole lot less complicated.
At $30-$40, Mercer's fall within your price range. Next time you're looking for a good kitchen knife, google them up. Don't let the fact that they're made in Taiwan scare you off. Henkle's just wish they were as good.
Mike
N454casull
Will they survive 4 boys in the house in your opinion? Most of what I have now has a bent tip and some minor nicks from the kids.
There are usually band-aids on fingers within 24 hours of me sharpening them, I warn them.
Well, not many knives will survive being used as a screwdriver or prybar. OTOH, you'd probably not have to sleep with them under your pillow.
Mercer's come from the factory sharp, and I don't say that lightly. One or two nicks and the boys will learn fast enough. Possibly minus a finger, but fast enough.
Mike
N454casull
Someones always bleeding or bandaged at my house, especially since the snow melted a couple weeks ago:) I am going to check out Mercers tonight, thanks.
Thanks for the info, Wambli.
Mike
N454casull
And Japanese swords were double beveled. A single bevel is good for a shear, like a scissors, but with a steeper angle. The steeper the angle, the more the blade is fit for chopping/shearing, like an axe. I like a double-bevel, thin (narrow angle) blade on a knife for general use. If I was a sushi chef, I might think differently.