School me on Ruger No 1s

RazorbackerRazorbacker Senior MemberPosts: 4,646 Senior Member
I'm not asking for a beginners tutorial but rather some specifics. I've got a line on one. Do they generally need work for accuracy? like bedding, a new trigger?
Also, the only one I've ever fondled was chambered in .416. IIRC it was kinda heavy. The one I'm looking at is chambered in a cartridge smaller than .308 but larger than .277.
The barrel looks to have a very slender profile. Think it'll be on the lighter side or heavier?
I've always kinda wanted a No 1 and I have been looking for a rifle chambered in what this one is.
Thanks
Teach your children to love guns, they'll never be able to afford drugs

Replies

  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 25,816 Senior Member
    Sometimes the ejector spring and arm(between barrel and forearm) can cause problems with the light contour barrels. It can cause inconsistent pressure on the barrel. There is a small parts kit that can be installed to put pressure on the barrel at the end of the forearm to correct this. I know a couple of guys with #1 rifles that removed the ejector spring entirely making them an extractor only type.

    If it is a 7x57 and you get it, then you get a preemptive You Suck! :tooth:
    Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup.


  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 10,071 Senior Member
    I've had three of them and only one would shoot OK. Two .243s, and inch and a half, the other 3+ inches) a 25-06 that was accurate with a heavy barrel. Like a fool, I got rid of it.

    They look good, especially the older ones with the Claro walnut stocks. The new ones are plain. I doubt I'll ever own another. Thing is, I don't suppose they could be made to shoot better, and I don't like a rifle that won't shoot better than 1.5" that costs so much.
    Not too many problems you can't fix
    With a 1911 and a 30-06
  • DanChamberlainDanChamberlain Senior Member Posts: 3,353 Senior Member
    It's a fricken single shot! It don't need to shoot "groups!" It's group is measured in one shot! The first one! I had one in .30-06 and it shot the first bullet into the bulls eye every time! I didn't care if it shot a 2" 5 shot cluster. I only cared that the first shot I made with a cold barrel went where I wanted it to go. Just like those safari double barrels. If it hits the kill zone at the intended range, it's good to go. Even if the best it will do is 1.5 inches, is that really so bad?
    It's a source of great pride for me, that when my name is googled, one finds book titles and not mug shots. Daniel C. Chamberlain
  • RazorbackerRazorbacker Senior Member Posts: 4,646 Senior Member
    It's a fricken single shot! It don't need to shoot "groups!" It's group is measured in one shot! The first one! I had one in .30-06 and it shot the first bullet into the bulls eye every time! I didn't care if it shot a 2" 5 shot cluster. I only cared that the first shot I made with a cold barrel went where I wanted it to go. Just like those safari double barrels. If it hits the kill zone at the intended range, it's good to go. Even if the best it will do is 1.5 inches, is that really so bad?

    My sentiments exactly. I guess a thread on what folks consider acceptable HUNTING accuracy might be fun.
    Teach your children to love guns, they'll never be able to afford drugs
  • RazorbackerRazorbacker Senior Member Posts: 4,646 Senior Member
    tennmike wrote: »
    Sometimes the ejector spring and arm(between barrel and forearm) can cause problems with the light contour barrels. It can cause inconsistent pressure on the barrel. There is a small parts kit that can be installed to put pressure on the barrel at the end of the forearm to correct this. I know a couple of guys with #1 rifles that removed the ejector spring entirely making them an extractor only type.

    If it is a 7x57 and you get it, then you get a preemptive You Suck! :tooth:

    You guessed correctly and with the price of brass I like the extract only option.
    Teach your children to love guns, they'll never be able to afford drugs
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 10,071 Senior Member
    Ah, the concept of one-shot groups. All rifles except fully automatic rifles are single shots in that they shoot one round at a time. Consistent fliers indicate a problem with the gun and it's a problem that may not be limited to the first shot. It's why we shoot groups.
    Not too many problems you can't fix
    With a 1911 and a 30-06
  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 20,564 Senior Member
    I've owned three No.1s. The .45-70 I owned shot acceptably for a huge chunk of bullet. The .300 WM I owned............I never fired and sold it as such. My current .30-06 Springfield No.1 Light Sporter shoots like a champ! Just let the barrel cool.

    Wish she I still had that .45-70 and I wish that .300 WM had been a .338 WM.
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 20,564 Senior Member
    If I were getting a 7x57 Mauser..........it would have to be a No.1 Light Sporter or an M77 RSI. Or a Mauser action. About the only way I'd buy a 7x57.
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 10,071 Senior Member
    I'd buy a 7x57 in No 1, but only that. In a heartbeat. Well, maybe two hearbeats, but that would be rare in that caliber.
    Not too many problems you can't fix
    With a 1911 and a 30-06
  • Elk creekElk creek Senior Member Posts: 5,728 Senior Member
    Mine seems to shoot ok;-).....


    It's a 1a light sporter in 30-30, the low shot was a called flyer. 4 rounds 100 yards factory fodder. I waited to cool the barrel between shots... Well almost cool
    Aim higher, or get a bigger gun.
  • Big Al1Big Al1 Senior Member Posts: 7,010 Senior Member
    I re-stocked a #1V in .220 Swift. That thing could light match's at 100 yards!! But, with the heavy barrel, it does not heat up as fast. Like Mike said, most of the problems are caused by the forearm hanger, which is correctable. To bad you didn't get to fondle my #1 at the shoot, it made Ron's knee go all rubbery, just like when he was 17 again and looking at the "foldout". The forearm is attached to a steel block soldered on the barrel, totally eliminating the hanger.
    I've attached an article on how to correct the forearm problem.
    http://varminthuntinginternational.com/accurizingnoruger.html
  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 25,816 Senior Member
    You guessed correctly and with the price of brass I like the extract only option.

    Even doing the ejector spring removal, I'd look into the barrel tension screw option. It fits on the ejection spring hanger tip and can help a lot with putting a little pressure on the barrel close to the forearm tip. You may not even need it if you remove that big honkin' ejector spring.

    I have one in heavy barrel configuration I bought in the late 1970s. Even with the heavy barrel it had problems with accuracy until I removed that big coil ejector spring. Once the spring was removed it settled down to sub 1" groups. That ejector spring is strong enough to launch small light objects into low Earth orbit.
    Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup.


  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 20,564 Senior Member
    Don't want one THAT bad.
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
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