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sakodude
Senior MemberPosts: 4,546 Senior Member
Going to be making smoke
Posted an inquiry a while back about a T/C scout BP rifle I was considering. Well, went a bit more traditional and bought a T/C Hawken style today in 50 cal.
Not sure it's even been fire it's so clean and the price was right.
I have FF & FFF powder, the real black stuff, what would be a good starting charge with a PRB?


Sako
Not sure it's even been fire it's so clean and the price was right.
I have FF & FFF powder, the real black stuff, what would be a good starting charge with a PRB?


Sako
Replies
Bore butter works as a good place to start for a patch lube. Dont believe all the boiling water stories where you must pour 17.3 gallons down the tube while dancing in a feather loin cloth. Here is the BP cleaning secret. If BP residue gets wet, it is neutralized....... done. Run some wet patches down the bore, get the place where flame goes into the bore wet, then dry it. Hit it with some water displacement 40, then lube. If it was a flinter then you would have to remove the lock and pour some boiling water over it. That cleans it and the heat helps it dry, then water displacement 40 and lube.
http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/lyman_blackpowder.pdf Try 80 of 2F to start.
Jerry
Edit: Most of those rifles have a 1:48" twist, which is a compromise between PRB and conicals. 1:66" or 1:72" works better for round balls only.
For some reason, when I have chewed patches at a range session, the 3rd or forth taste real bad.
From what I can see, it is 1:48. It will shoot OK, keep the charge moderate though and it will shoot better. Dont worry about proofing your bbl, the last deer I took was at about 70 yds with a 54 cal RB over 70gr 2F.
Congrats on your new gateway drug.
thank you.
Sako
:tooth:
And it adds two weeks to my deer season.
Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
Boy ain't that the truth! Nice looking smoker! They are addictive as all get out, Teach and the rest on here got me started in the right direction. Enjoy! (BTW: You Suck!)
Thanks for the info and link. I did not get the box or manual with this rifle so twist is unknown but from research I believe it to be 1:48. That is disappointing about the cleaning ritual, I just got a new loincloth:tooth:
Sako
Thanks Teach. so the grove dia looks to be about .510 my inside micing skills may be somewhat lacking. I have round balls that measure .490 (that makes me feel a bit inadequate ) given that, a patch thickness of about .010 would be about right, yes? I also have some 385gr pre-lubed Hornady great plains bullets to try out. Any opinion on these?
Sako
-96 lbs
What is your projectile of choice?
Sako
Thanks:tooth:
Sako
Thanks, I was given about 8# of powder and around 3000 or so caps so I expect to be shooting it quite a bit:p
Sako
Mine had the twist rate stamped onto the barrel.
Sako
All I've shot in mine are hard lead balls. They are fairly accurate as I said. Teach cautioned me about bullet choice so I'll let him chime in and get you the straight skinny on it.
Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
Wrong.
If you are using 490's a .010 patch will be the size of the lands, you need to fill the grooves so as not to pass gas. Get some .018's.
I think the lyman link described the patch ball thing pretty well.
Eyew! Hey hurry and get some thicker patch material, we don't want you passing gas around here! :yikes::rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao:
Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
That was what I went by, groove dia .510 minus ball dia .490 = .020 difference divided by 2 =0.10 :uhm: Now I may have measured wrong, kind of hard telling if I got the mic in opposite grooves so I will try slugging the bore as suggested in your link and see what I get.
Thanks.
Sako
Jerry
1. Start off as Teach says in his first post, but maybe start with 60gr 3f initially and work up from there. You will get the most accuracy by having the powder charge completely burned just as the PRB reaches the muzzle, so barrel length will enter into the equasion. I'm not familiar with this rifle, but I would imagine the barrel length is less than 42 inches. Just try 60gr also, and work up from there.
2. You can improve the accuracy a little and eliminate any patch burn/damage (which influences accuracy) by putting a .50cal felt patch down over the powder before running the PRB down. Circle Fly makes these, and you can possibly find them locally in larger gun stores.
EDIT: I've got an excellent custom made .40cal flintlock that I'll let go for an excellent price if you want to "upgrade"!
Paddle faster!!! I hear banjos.
Reason for editing: correcting my auto correct
Thank you, really appreciate yours and everyone else's advice. Check your PM if you would please.
Sako
+1
Paddle faster!!! I hear banjos.
Reason for editing: correcting my auto correct
Sounds a bit uncomfortable. But hey, if that's your thing.
NRA Life Member
that pretty much lists everything in my midway cart right now. Good to know I got the list right. Don't recall where it came from but I have a synthetic ramrod already.
Sako
Also concur with using BALLISTOL! This was invented by the Germans in the late 1800's and has been used since about 1895 and is still used as a small arms lubricant by todays' German Military! Ballistol in itself will clean and neutralize black powder residue in muzzleloaders. Run 3 or 4 Ballistol wet patches up and down the bore, and about the 4th will show NO black powder residue.
sakodude: I'll respond to your message in the morning.....just too tired and worn out tonight.
At your convenience. Ballistol has been on my bench forever. Particularly since moving to the humid midwest. Did not know it neutralized black powder though:up:
Sako
Good idea, Are these universal? All the T/C specific nipples are out of stock at midway but other brands are available. Going to order one for musket caps to try as I have some of those as well.
Sako
Confirmed 1/4x28. thanks
Sako