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bisley
Posts: 10,815 Senior Member
Help on something 'simple' that I've never learned.
bisley
Posts: 10,815 Senior Member
Knocking fixed sights (in a dovetail slot) one way or the other to adjust aim, or removing them altogether.
Simple mechanics, I know, and I'm fairly mechanically inclined and have a light touch, when needed. But, every time I've tried it, the results were unsatisfactory - or more specifically, no results at all, because I always back off for fear of damaging the barrel or maybe just the finish. I think I know that it is all about securing the barrel (or receiver) properly in a proper vice, but I'm even squeamish about that and would like some specifics.
I would like to see a video that shows it being done properly, preferably in several different ways, if possible. Failing that, any kind of tutorial would be useful to me. I can't believe that there aren't a lot of other folks who would also benefit.
In particular, I have an early '70's Marlin Model 94 .44 magnum that I have always had scoped because I could not adjust the factory iron sights to suit me, and also a Henry lever action .22. Both rifles are very accurate for what they are, but need to be scopeless, in my opinion. I could put Skinner aperture sights on the receiver, but I would still need to remove the old sights. I have also tried to bump the sights on a Kahr semi-auto pistol, without good results.
Please post links to video, if one exists, or give me whatever details you can.
Simple mechanics, I know, and I'm fairly mechanically inclined and have a light touch, when needed. But, every time I've tried it, the results were unsatisfactory - or more specifically, no results at all, because I always back off for fear of damaging the barrel or maybe just the finish. I think I know that it is all about securing the barrel (or receiver) properly in a proper vice, but I'm even squeamish about that and would like some specifics.
I would like to see a video that shows it being done properly, preferably in several different ways, if possible. Failing that, any kind of tutorial would be useful to me. I can't believe that there aren't a lot of other folks who would also benefit.
In particular, I have an early '70's Marlin Model 94 .44 magnum that I have always had scoped because I could not adjust the factory iron sights to suit me, and also a Henry lever action .22. Both rifles are very accurate for what they are, but need to be scopeless, in my opinion. I could put Skinner aperture sights on the receiver, but I would still need to remove the old sights. I have also tried to bump the sights on a Kahr semi-auto pistol, without good results.
Please post links to video, if one exists, or give me whatever details you can.
Replies
The same process works for rear sights. Use a support fixture shaped to firmly support the receiver or the rear of the barrel and drift the sight right or left to change the point of impact of the bullet. Virtually all dovetail-mounted factory sights get tighter in the dovetail as they're drifted to the shooter's left from the perspective of holding the gun in a "ready to fire" position. If you're planning to remove a dovetailed sight completely, always move it to the shooter's right until it clears the dovetail. driving it left will make it get VERY tight before it clears the slot.
Front sight- - - - -move the sight opposite the direction of bullet impact change. To move the bullet strike right, drift the sight to the left, from the shooter's viewpoint.
Rear sight- - - - - -move the sight in the direction you want the impact point to go. Sight moves right, so does the bullet.
Elevation changes- - - - -raise the rear sight to raise the POI, lower it to lower the bullet strike. File the front sight to raise the impact, or install a shorter sight for large changes of vertical impact point. Higher front sight- - - -lower impact point.
In general, shooting a heavier bullet with similar velocity to a light one makes the POI higher, due to increased dwell time in the barrel allowing more time for muzzle jump due to recoil. Have fun! I don't know of any video, but I'm sure somebody will come up with one soon.
Jerry
One question on cutting the groove in the hardwood block: Would a V-shaped groove work just as well?
And thanks, Ken for the link. I think I can do that.
Life member of the American Legion, the VFW, the NRA and the Masonic Lodge, retired LEO
Yes, just anything to keep the barrel more or less centered on the bench block. Gene is right about the slabside receiver, no groove required there. If the rear sight is on the barrel like my Marlin 336, I'd still recommend a groove of some type.
Jerry
Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
Make sure you get the height of the sight right, the same height as the one broken off. Westernfield is a Marlin made for Montgomery Ward.
Yeah I know it was made by Marlin and it is a totally sweet rifle. The trigger, even though it cocks on closing, is excellent for a 22. It is also very accurate even with the sites like they are now. That's why I want to get it up to speed with a good sight. And I may be interested in installing a good receiver site. But with the bolt being straight up upon extraction, it cuts the rear receiver bridge in half and the bolt would interfere with such a site as it would with a scope mount.
Any ideas on doing this like bending the bolt? I know this is doable. Too many of them out there like it that have been done.
Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
Well said Jerry, doesn't get any simpler....
Also if using a bore sighter while adj. sights, remove from barrel before moving sight, then reposition in barrel. may damage bore sighter if not removed. Using a maple or other block of wood, drill a hole close to the diam. of barrel, saw length wise with a fairly wide saw will usally grip well enought for this job. Keep block for future use.... Good post also Gene.... Lot of good and simple instructions on this blog. I like the information on this site.
What was your reference for your POI difference w/ your findings? Been doing this 40+ yrs. Not claiming to be an expert: Just a little experienced. All is about the same w/other calibers also, given same components w/ handloading. Can't speak for factory ammo, as the .30-30 ammo was bought and grouped in 1975,and what was left of 20 boxes (1ea.both wgts. was chrono'ed 1n '91 after return from the Storm. The .30-30 ammo is/was the ONLY fact. ammo fired in any of my firearms. Everything else you posted is pretty well spot-on. will
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In my experience, the differences in POI seem to be more dramatic on small pistols, like my Kahr K-9 and K-40, both of which like heavy bullets, but this could easily just be operator error. On the other hand, my Marlin .44 mag uses the same zero at a hundred yards with both 240 gr. and 225 gr. bullets. Again, operator inconsistency may be a factor.
Essentially a Marlin 60.