Stock repair guys - setting time for epoxy?

BigDanSBigDanS Senior MemberPosts: 6,788 Senior Member
I have a Marlin 336 stock with a pretty good split at the receiver through part of the pistol grip. It's a 1961 Model 336 in .35 Remington that appears to be pretty close to original. The previous owner drilled out the bullseye and replaced it with swivel ( what a doofus!) I am trying to keep the old girl as original as possible.

I was able to spread it out with a screw driver and get a decent amount of 4 minute Loctite epoxy inside most areas. When I clamped it down there was excellent seepage around all of the exterior portions of the crak which makes me believe I got it into almost everywhere I wanted. I have it clamped right now.

The label says "able to be worked in 20 minutes" but I don't believe it.

What is your opinion on the clamp time? I am thinking 24 hours.

If this repair does not work I will need to drop $75 on a new butt stock.

D
"A patriot is mocked, scorned and hated; yet when his cause succeeds, all men will join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." Mark Twain
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:

Replies

  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 25,765 Senior Member
    Set time and cure time for most epoxy adhesives are mutually exclusive. Wait at least 24 hours before putting any stress on the repair.
    Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup.


  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 18,662 Senior Member
    tennmike wrote: »
    Wait at least 24 hours before putting any stress on the repair.
    :agree: :that:
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


  • snake284snake284 Senior Member Posts: 21,802 Senior Member
    BigDanS wrote: »
    I have a Marlin 336 stock with a pretty good split at the receiver through part of the pistol grip. It's a 1961 Model 336 in .35 Remington that appears to be pretty close to original. The previous owner drilled out the bullseye and replaced it with swivel ( what a doofus!) I am trying to keep the old girl as original as possible.

    I was able to spread it out with a screw driver and get a decent amount of 4 minute Loctite epoxy inside most areas. When I clamped it down there was excellent seepage around all of the exterior portions of the crak which makes me believe I got it into almost everywhere I wanted. I have it clamped right now.

    The label says "able to be worked in 20 minutes" but I don't believe it.

    What is your opinion on the clamp time? I am thinking 24 hours.

    If this repair does not work I will need to drop $75 on a new butt stock.

    D

    I'm not sure, but when I have used bedding kits on rifles and bedded the actions in, the directions said 3 days before removing the barreled action from the stock. Also, if it's below 70 degrees remove it to an area that is at least 75 degrees and it will cure faster.
    Daddy, what's an enabler?
    Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
  • jaywaptijaywapti Senior Member Posts: 4,489 Senior Member
    When I use epoxy to repair or bed a stock, I leave clamped up for at least the cure time.

    JAY
    THE DEFINITION OF GUN CONTROL IS HITTING THE TARGET WITH YOUR FIRST SHOT
  • jaywaptijaywapti Senior Member Posts: 4,489 Senior Member
    FYI, When I have to repair a crack , I use a more liquid epoxy as it will seep deeper into the crack and wood with a 30 - 60 min. work time. The 4 - 5 min is more like a gel. As Snake said below 70*F use a heat lamp both to warm the wood before and after.

    JAY
    THE DEFINITION OF GUN CONTROL IS HITTING THE TARGET WITH YOUR FIRST SHOT
  • TeachTeach Senior Member Posts: 18,259 Senior Member
    It's a bit too late to offer an alternative, but I don't like quick-setting epoxy for stock repairs. Original AcraGlas (not the gel) without the fiberglass flock added is very runny, takes a couple of hours to set up, and does a very good job of seeping its way into a crack before it sets. Spread the crack a little, apply the epoxy liquid liberally, let it penetrate a few minutes, THEN clamp things together and clean up any seeps. Leave the clamp(s) on at least overnight in a warm (not hot) environment.
    Jerry
    Hide and wail in terror, Eloi- - - -We Morlocks are on the hunt!
    ASK-HOLE Someone who asks for advice and always does something opposite
  • BigDanSBigDanS Senior Member Posts: 6,788 Senior Member
    Fortunately this 4 minute epoxy was plenty runny and the crack was not small either, so I was able to get it into all the necessary areas well. I have the luxury of not needing to use this stock and it will now cure, clamped, for three days.

    I was able to take my Exacto knives and remove the excess squeezed out epoxy on the interior wood surfaces cleanly and bore out the stock screw hole in the wood.

    If you are familiar with the 336 stock, torqueing the front of the stock by putting too much pressure on it can cause it to split, and this one split top to bottom on the right side. I was able to stick a screw driver into the crack and open it up about 1/4 inch and the two part epoxy came with a nozzle that helped me get it inside. I had looked for a wide needle to inject it into the crack but this was as close as I could find at the time.

    I'll post up some pic's and the results in a few days.

    Thank you for the sage advice.


    D
    "A patriot is mocked, scorned and hated; yet when his cause succeeds, all men will join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." Mark Twain
    Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
  • BigDanSBigDanS Senior Member Posts: 6,788 Senior Member
    I used this:

    Loctite_1365868_047_Oz_Instant_Mix_5_Minute_Epoxy.jpg

    Notice the nozzles on the right side of the packaging. So far this has worked well.

    D
    "A patriot is mocked, scorned and hated; yet when his cause succeeds, all men will join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." Mark Twain
    Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
  • snake284snake284 Senior Member Posts: 21,802 Senior Member
    Wambli Ska wrote: »
    He's in South FL. He doesn't even comprehend that concept... :tooth:

    True.
    Daddy, what's an enabler?
    Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
  • BigDanSBigDanS Senior Member Posts: 6,788 Senior Member
    Here is a picture of the lower part of the crack and the stock. This photo does not show the split goes up to the top of the other side.

    336%20crack_zpsxhmardzj.jpg

    336%20stock%20right_zpsanbmebkz.jpg

    Here is the top of the stock and crack in glue up.

    E2AEBE1D-8F99-4373-8A16-0898AA585E1A_zpsdouvquua.jpg

    And the entire stock in glue up:

    085A61E4-C696-41B4-9D5A-83411D6F52C0_zpssfnuozth.jpg
    "A patriot is mocked, scorned and hated; yet when his cause succeeds, all men will join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." Mark Twain
    Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
  • snake284snake284 Senior Member Posts: 21,802 Senior Member
    BigDanS wrote: »
    I used this:

    Loctite_1365868_047_Oz_Instant_Mix_5_Minute_Epoxy.jpg

    Notice the nozzles on the right side of the packaging. So far this has worked well.

    D

    It will probably work but Acraglass cures slower and stronger. I keep me a little in bulk here all the time. And if you bed a rifle their blue colored mold release works great. I've never stuck an action with it.
    Daddy, what's an enabler?
    Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 10,045 Senior Member
    I've not had too much luck with filling cracks and clamping down. The pressure goes to the part not expoxied, especially if the crack is along a grain. If the epoxy holds, well and good, but I wouldn't spend my stock money on ammo until it's been a few weeks.

    Good luck.

    Most Marlins have the bullseye drilled out for a sling swivel. This is good, in a way, because it's easily replaced to bring the rifle back to original. I've replaced a few of these, just file it to the contour of the stock, proud of the stock, pull it out, put on the epoxy and drive it in so it matches.
    Not too many problems you can't fix
    With a 1911 and a 30-06
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