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eye on S/W mod 10-7

sarg1csarg1c Senior MemberPosts: 1,707 Senior Member
Got my eye on a very nice model 10-7 nickle plated. Really nice but there's so many out there just wondering if $450.00 might be a little high. Anyone agree....

Replies

  • bisleybisley Senior Member Posts: 10,798 Senior Member
    I love my Model 10, but I can't comment on the value, since I bought mine (blued) from a relative, for $300, some time ago. Also, I don't favor nickel plated in anything, because I have one, and I find that it inhibits the amount of shooting I get to do with it, because I'm afraid it will start wearing off. Probably an unreasonable fear, but there it is.
  • earlyearly Senior Member Posts: 4,950 Senior Member
    Maybe the finish adds value?

    I do know from my own experience that nickel finish is pretty durable, holds up good to hard use.
    My thoughts are generally clear. My typing, not so much.
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 11,861 Senior Member
    I would think a -7 is a pretty late handgun. That said, yes a NICKEL (not "nickle") plating adds to the value. Not sure I'd get a K frame .38 Spec unless I got a great deal on it, and $450 isn't a smoking deal. It's a good round, sneered at nowadays with the Magnum Madness, but it's fine. I'd think you MIGHT be able to get a Model 13 .357 blue for about the same price, but I haven't shopped for a revolver in a while. If you like it and it's in great shape, go for the Model 10.

    Cancel that: I checked and the 10-7, made in 1977, is the tapered barrel revolver. Pinned barrel. So it's probably worth it if it's in good shape. I don't think Smith made the tapered barrel guns much past 1977.
    Concealed carry is for protection, open carry is for attention.
  • Big ChiefBig Chief Senior Member Posts: 32,995 Senior Member
    Nickel plating can look awful if it has been neglected and starting peeling off or it can look great with just some normal use wear and tear or brand new, of course.

    Factory Nickel jobs are the best and those that have been re-Nickled lose value, even if the factory did it. I think those sent back to S&W had a letter stamped on the grip or somewhere indicating it was redone. Even so, they say they lose 50% of worth to collectors off the bat. There was a fad a few decades ago to send them in for Electroless Nickel plating or something.

    I read that Hoppes #9 and any solvent with ammonia should be used carefully on NP guns. It is very hard on it and you must clean it off real good right after you use it. having said that I have a Nickel 13 and have used it with no issues. I read where some guns were coated in copper before Nickel was applied and the solvent attacks the copper under neath if it is scratched/chipped....I really don't know. I guess there was is Electro-Nickel too or it was used a lot in the past.

    One quick way to tell if a S&W was NP at the factory is the hammer and the trigger should be cased hardened steel in appearance not NP. I have seen some with bad NP and pretty good that have been redone.

    That seems a little at the high end for a model 10, but it all depends on what shape it is in and what they go for in your area. The Military and Police were the bread and butter of S&W K framed .38s and ain't a thing wrong with them. Some variations/finishes/bbl lengths are getting expensive and harder to come by.

    If you like the way it looks and if it feels right in your hand ...............buy it!
    It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
    Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
    I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
  • Big ChiefBig Chief Senior Member Posts: 32,995 Senior Member
    Check this out http://www.gunauction.com/buy/5219614

    WOW, sold fer $176 high bid.....honestly what they should go for to me being a used model 10, maybe 50 bucks more, but I'm stuck on old prices and it was sold back in 2003!

    You can tell the difference between the Nickel and the hammer and trigger being case hardened, my 13 contrast more than that, but it is noticeable on this one.

    Not to be confused with a stainless steel gun hammer and trigger which are well.... SS.

    I was looking at one I thought was a redone Nickel and I was right when I asked the seller.
    It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
    Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
    I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
  • sarg1csarg1c Senior Member Posts: 1,707 Senior Member
    Gene, it is not pinnd and it is a tapered barrel. He also had a -6heavy barrel which was pinned but a little rough for $400.00 I can get the -7 for $400.00 It also had a"D" in the serial number.
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 11,861 Senior Member
    sarg1c wrote: »
    Gene, it is not pinnd and it is a tapered barrel. He also had a -6heavy barrel which was pinned but a little rough for $400.00 I can get the -7 for $400.00 It also had a"D" in the serial number.

    Well, given that the one above sold for less than $200, I'd look a little closer. And that means like new.

    If it was stainless, it would have a 6 as a prefix. And likewise, I've never seen a SS tapered barrel Smith. The nickel one in the OP would for me be for carry and not shooting since the heavy barrel ones shoot better. Less felt recoil.
    Concealed carry is for protection, open carry is for attention.
  • sarg1csarg1c Senior Member Posts: 1,707 Senior Member
    Gene L wrote: »
    Well, given that the one above sold for less than $200, I'd look a little closer. And that means like new.

    If it was stainless, it would have a 6 as a prefix. And likewise, I've never seen a SS tapered barrel Smith. The nickel one in the OP would for me be for carry and not shooting since the heavy barrel ones shoot better. Less felt recoil.

    The -6 is blued. Neither one would be to carry as I have a 637 air weight and a colt pocktlite. Just one to shoot a little...
  • DurwoodDurwood Senior Member Posts: 970 Senior Member
    Get a Model 15-2 or 15-3... Great shooting guns and you can usually find a nice, but used one for $400 or under.
    You have the right to your own opinion, but you don't have the right to your own facts:guns:
  • wizard78wizard78 Senior Member Posts: 1,004 Senior Member
    I have a Smith model 10-5 in nickel and they are nice. I don't shoot it often but enjoy owning it but I believe it's a 4 inch. Would have to pull out of safe and measure to make sure. I think $400 would be a "fair" price for yours if in good shape and anything less would be a great buy. If you like bling, get it, as it's a little more durable that blue but can go to hell quick if you don't care for it after shooting. Let us know what you decide. Here's mine.

    DSCN1671.jpg

    “When guns are outlawed, only patriots will have guns.”
  • Big ChiefBig Chief Senior Member Posts: 32,995 Senior Member
    wizard78 wrote: »

    DSCN1671.jpg

    Nice .38 there. And in your pic you can clearly see the contrast with the hammer and trigger not being nickel plated which means it is an original factory job or at least possibly re-nickel plated by S&W.
    It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
    Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
    I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
  • Big ChiefBig Chief Senior Member Posts: 32,995 Senior Member
    OK NICKEL/NICKLE.............damn 5 CENTS will work. Reminds me of a kid in Junior High who stuttered all the time. Once at the coke machines he asked fer a nic nic nic nic nic and finally gave up and said Five Cents :rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao:
    It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
    Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
    I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 11,861 Senior Member
    For $400, I'd want the original wooden stocks. For shooting, the heavy barrel pistols shoot better, if that's an issue. I've never owned a skinny-barrel Model 10, so I say this unadvisedly. I don't think they're target revolvers.

    I've got an OLD M&P 6" 38 special, looks cool and very original to the period...pre Model 10. Original pre-Magna grips.
    Concealed carry is for protection, open carry is for attention.
  • Big ChiefBig Chief Senior Member Posts: 32,995 Senior Member
    I was corrected ( by Weatherby ?) on here for calling my Granddad's ole 5 screw .38 Spl a pre-model 10, but it is easier than sayin Hand Ejector Model of 1905 change 6 or something.

    But I do have a pre-model 27 and that is allowed???????
    It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
    Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
    I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
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