Home› Main Category› General Firearms
JerryBobCo
Posts: 8,227 Senior Member
Need some advice for reloading 9mm
JerryBobCo
Posts: 8,227 Senior Member
I've been reloading bottleneck rifle ammo for about 40 years, but today marked my first attempt at reloading straight walled pistol ammo. In particular, I'm attempting to reload for my 9mm semi-auto.
I have 3 different batches of once fired brass, and am keeping them separate. One is from Blazer 115 grain FMJ, one from Patriot 115 grain FMJ and one whose name currently escapes me. I have ran the Blazer and Patriot brass through the tumbler so they're nice and shiny. That's where I'm stuck.
According to my Speer reloading manual and the trim to data that comes with my calipers, the max length of the case should not exceed .754 inches and the trim-to length is either .750 or .751 inches. My problem is that all of the cases I've checked are considerably shorter. Some measure .738, and I'm concerned that they're too short to properly cycle the action since this cartridge spaces on the case rim.
The Speer manual recommends trimming all cases to the same length, which I can do, but I don't know if it's a good idea to trim that short. I did check some new, unfired Blazer ammo (same lot as the cases I'm trying to reload), and those cases measured .750.
Am I ok with just trimming to the length of the shortest case, or would I be better off throwing away this brass and start with new brass?
I'm also a bit puzzled as to why the once fired brass is shorter than the new brass. That's a phenomena I've not experienced when reloading rifle ammo.
I have 3 different batches of once fired brass, and am keeping them separate. One is from Blazer 115 grain FMJ, one from Patriot 115 grain FMJ and one whose name currently escapes me. I have ran the Blazer and Patriot brass through the tumbler so they're nice and shiny. That's where I'm stuck.
According to my Speer reloading manual and the trim to data that comes with my calipers, the max length of the case should not exceed .754 inches and the trim-to length is either .750 or .751 inches. My problem is that all of the cases I've checked are considerably shorter. Some measure .738, and I'm concerned that they're too short to properly cycle the action since this cartridge spaces on the case rim.
The Speer manual recommends trimming all cases to the same length, which I can do, but I don't know if it's a good idea to trim that short. I did check some new, unfired Blazer ammo (same lot as the cases I'm trying to reload), and those cases measured .750.
Am I ok with just trimming to the length of the shortest case, or would I be better off throwing away this brass and start with new brass?
I'm also a bit puzzled as to why the once fired brass is shorter than the new brass. That's a phenomena I've not experienced when reloading rifle ammo.
Jerry
Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
Replies
COAL is very important for pistol rounds.
I spot check the case mouths of loaded rounds against the dimension in the manual too.
Edit to add:
I crimp in batches according to case length sometimes if I have a large CL discrepancy.
The cartridges will be held against the breechface by the extractor during ignition, but CL is critical to consistent crimp.
Also the shorter cases will produce greater pressure than the longer ones.
the only issue you will have is the crimp.
what i do is to try to find the shortest brass and adjust my crimp for that. you can do it be T&E but once you find that short one, you may have to adjust your die for it and then maybe have to re-crimp the others. Or you can just call it good.
if you can keep the brass separate and shoot the batch/brand all at one time it will keep the usage equal overall.
- Don Burt
I too have never trimmed pistol brass. If it comes to that point of a trim needed, I toss them out. Straight walled pistol or rifle ammo does not lengthen very much at all. Frankly I'd keep in loading them. Don't worry about it.
If you have a taper-crimp die, adjust it to snug the brass against the bullet so it will feed well, but never put a roll crimp on brass that headspaces on the case mouth. If you're concerned about possible light primer strikes from a shorter than spec case, pick the shortest case of the bunch, prime it, and chamber the empty case. If the firing pin can light that one off reliably, anything longer, up to the max length listed in the load manual shouldn't present a problem.
Jerry
As a clarification based only on what I've seen when it comes to trimming straight wall brass, some will need to be trimmed, some won't. While a lot of loads can be shot over and over with no real concern for case length, it's not always so. Loading stout loads with roll crimps will stretch brass out of spec. Loading 454 casull and 460, trimming was a necessity for me after every couple of loads. The little pile of brass shavings was evidence, aside from my caliper readings. Again, I always resize brass prior to trimming. A case very well can and usually will measure a different length before sizing than after. And especially when applying heavy roll crimps, case length is important for consistent crimps.
Just pointing out what I've seen. I can't see a broad statement that straight wall brass doesn't need trimming. There are "cases" where it is necessary.
Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
Not to change the subject but when loading .38 spl that will be shot in a .357 gun, I've kind of don't much care about COAL, as long as it meets the minimum my rifle will shoot, 1.42". To long seems unimportant. Am I wrong?
-- Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, German writer and politician
I will be loading some 38 special, but it will only be used in my wife's 38. Thanks for the feedback from all.
Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
If you are just loading for one particular gun its usually not a big deal. But if you have several in the same caliber, you will want to do a couple tests.
1. Make sure the reloads fit in the mag. Be it in the grip or in a tube or stock.
2. make sure they chamber. In an autoloader, remove the barrel and do a "plunk" test. drop a round into the chamber and if it makes a "plunk" sound youre good - not too long. Note that CZs can have short chambers and if the bullet is loaded to spec it may not pass the plunk test. If its a revolver, make sure they chamber in the cylinder and dont stick out beyond it.
2a. make sure it chambers and works in a lever action. Sometimes the LOA can affect the action and cause a jamb.
good luck.
- Don Burt
I have a lead load that goes about 750 fps ...
I've gone that route, too. But, my wife has a 38 special and I want to have plenty of ammo for both, so decided to go the reloading route.
Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
I have a 9mm autoloader (Kahr CW9) and a Hi Point Carbine. I plan to do the "plunk" test as you call it, but I'll compare how my reloads fit in relation to new ammo. I will only be able to do that with the Kahr, as I don't intend to try to disassemble the carbine.
Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
Jerry, what powder are you using for your ..38spl? I like Bullseye but here it is none existing so I've started with Red-Dot. I try loading some lighter loads for the wife to use in her S/W air weight. Never +p for her in the air weight as it is so light.
Enjoy loading the pistol cases as I do.
Any of you guys shoot.32 s/w. I have two full boxes of Win with 85 gr lead. ..only. 32 I have is the .32long . They will shoot in the long but not sure I want to do that. Very hard to find the short here and expensive.
I have a pound of Bullseye and a pound of True Blue. I plan to use the Bullseye for the 9, and the True Blue for the 38. According to my Speer reloading manual, there's one and only one powder charge recommended for using Bullseye with 125 grain bullets for the 38, but a wider range when using it for the 9. There's also more flexibility for using True Blue with the 38.
It's mostly a matter of what powder I can find. I'm really not in a position to pick and choose what I want to use.
Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
I only load lead in 38s. Jacketed bullets can stick in the bore if short charged. When the manual says don't reduce the starting load they mean it.
Roll crimping revolver rounds can be tricky till you get the feel, but its a relaxing pass time.
http://www.shootingtimes.com/reloading/reloading-tips-the-plunk-test/
:tooth:
The manuals don't always give all the info. COAL with lead bullets can vary based on bullet profile. Even SWC bullets can vary as to how much of the nose sticks out past the case mouth. Some SWCs have a shorter and stubbier nose than others.
If you want light 38spl loads, use Trail boss. You can load then to feel like a .22 if you want. Most cowboy powder puff loads use trail boss, I use 3.0 gr with 125 gr lead bullet. Can't even feel any recoil. I've heard of guys using less than that with .45 colt.
-- Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, German writer and politician
All barrels aren't reamed the same. Wolf barrels for Glocks will not accept max COAL, for a price you can order it reamed a little further.
-- Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, German writer and politician
-- Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, German writer and politician
Chris, you're making a mountain out of a mole hill. The so-call plunk test is for comparing fit of a hand loaded round to that of a new, factory round. It's even a recommended procedure in my Speer reloading manual.
Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
I was used to reloading the Rem bullets, but got to thunking too hard about the Noslers a little different, but was worrying about OAL Min and Max. Deal is get them to fit in yer magazine, do a fit test with the bbl and compare it to a factory round and it should go in as easy and if you hear that "Plunk" all the better and if on some brass you don't it is still OK if it goes in like it should. I mean fits right. Remember the slide will put more force than you dropping a lose round in.
I use a Lee Factory Crimp Die and they will chamber if you run them through it.
Unique/Titegroup/Bullseye and many other powders work well. Some brass is hard to get the primers in, PMC I think, but some PMC was not. I used mixed brass just like I always have and have never trimmed any handgun brass in a variety of calibers for over 30 years now. I look for split cases, and badly dinged up semi-rims an overall look-see and toss any that ain't right.
Load a Dummy round or two with no primer or powder and cycle them through by hand. Mark them with a sharpie and/or look at the bullets after you manually eject them and see if they are scraped and that they chamber and eject smoothly.
Sometimes a sound can be a good indicator and reason to examine something further on some things if it ain't there. I remember they taught us on M-60 MGs to shake and listen for the gas plug to "Plunk" actually rattle back and forth as we shook it to make sure it wasn't frozen as an operator quick check (one of several) so just add it as one of several indicators in yer er........."Arsenal" of checks, so to speak.
Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
http://www.shootingtimes.com/ammo/ammunition_tips_for_semiauto_pistol_reloading_050211/
Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!