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What cleaning solvents/products are you all using?

TSchubTSchub Senior MemberPosts: 783 Senior Member
I have always used Hoppes because that was what my dad used while I was growing up and learning to shoot. With all of the products out here today, I wondered what everyone else was using and if there may be something better out there. Thoughts?

ps. Sorry if this has been beat to death, just wanted some current information.
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Replies

  • earlyearly Senior Member Posts: 4,950 Senior Member
    Hoppes#9
    Hoppes black powder solvent
    Ballistol
    Shooters Choice
    Kroil
    Isopropyl alcohol
    Windex with ammonia
    Montana Extreme Copper solvent
    Lead away wipe cloths
    :silly::silly::silly::silly::silly::silly:
    My thoughts are generally clear. My typing, not so much.
  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 24,508 Senior Member
    Shooter's Choice / Kroil Oil = 50/50 Mix
    BoreTech Eliminator
    BoreTech Cu+2 Copper Remover
    BoreTech Rimfire Blend (lead remover)
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • JayhawkerJayhawker Moderator Posts: 17,086 Senior Member
    Sweets 7.62 for a Copper Cleaner
    Butches Bore Shine for a Bore Cleaner
    Mobile 1 Synthetic or Synthetic ATF depending on what I'm working on
    CLP for quick clean-ups
    Gunslick Graphite Grease for those applications that need it...
    Sharps Model 1874 - "The rifle that made the west safe for Winchester"
  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 24,508 Senior Member
    I've been using the same quart of synthetic transmission fluid for lubricating ALL my guns since about 3-4 forum crashes ago.

    Worth every penny as compared to specific "gun lubes".
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • Six-GunSix-Gun Senior Member Posts: 8,152 Senior Member
    Wambli Ska wrote: »
    Depends on what I'm cleaning and how bad it looks, from alcohol through acetone and just about every major brand of cleaning type fluids and lubricants. Bench looks like a chemistry lab...

    This.

    I'm not above using Hoppe's #9 for general powder removal. I'll break out the good stuff (whatever that entails for a given job) once Hoppe's is done removing what it can.
    Accuracy: because white space between bullet holes drives me insane.
  • jaywaptijaywapti Senior Member Posts: 4,977 Senior Member
    Hoppes #9
    Shooters Choice
    Kroil
    Sweets 7.62
    Amsoil Syn. ATF
    Break Cleaner
    LPS #s 1 & 3
    TriFlow
    Moly Lube
    Gun Grease
    ETC. as needed

    JAY
    THE DEFINITION OF GUN CONTROL IS HITTING THE TARGET WITH YOUR FIRST SHOT
  • Six-GunSix-Gun Senior Member Posts: 8,152 Senior Member
    Zee wrote: »
    I've been using the same quart of synthetic transmission fluid for lubricating ALL my guns since about 3-4 forum crashes ago.

    Worth every penny as compared to specific "gun lubes".

    That's how I've been rolling with Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30 motor oil. I keep the odd portion leftover from my oil changes and just snag a little as needed. A dedicated quart of the stuff would last a few generations. I went to it after a tiny bottle of expensive, dedicated "gun lube" turned to sticky resin in the middle of a waterfowl hunt, rendering a semi-auto shotgun into a slow-cycling disaster. Tried to motor oil and next went back.
    Accuracy: because white space between bullet holes drives me insane.
  • Jeff in TXJeff in TX Senior Member Posts: 2,112 Senior Member
    I have a bore scope so I'm able to keep tabs on the internal bore conditions. My guns don't get cleaned until the end of hunting season. I'm also not into spending a ton of time cleaning rifles. I use three products. Wipeout Accelerator, GunSlick or Breakfree borefoam and Mobile 1.

    After the season I use Wipeout Accelerator to patch out all of the gunk in the bore which usually takes 4 to 6 saturated patches
    Next I use either GunSlick bore foam or Breakfree bore foam. I find they both work great really no differences so its what's in stock. I give it a shot of foam on one end until it comes out the other end. Wipe off any excess. i let this stand for a minimum of 3 hours and have gone as long as 8 hours. Not by design just depending on what I'm doing. I'll push 2 soaked patches of Wipeout Accelerator through the bore and then another 4 or 5 dry patches. Usually by the 4th or 5th patch they're coming out clean. Quick check with the bore scope and usually clean and shiny. I don't fret small traces of copper. Chrome moly barrels get a patch of Mobile 1 oil and a couple of dry patches.

    I've found the bore foam cleaners do a great job removing carbon and copper fouling. My youngest son Win Featherweight factor barrel is pretty rough in the bore. It usually gets a nylon brush after an hour or so on the bore foam sitting in it. Then another shot of bore foam and let sit for a few hours.

    Easy peasy!
    Distance is not an issue, but the wind can make it interesting!

    John 3: 1-21
  • BAMAAKBAMAAK Senior Member Posts: 4,484 Senior Member
    EEZOX cause I don't like walking around smelling like ATF or motor oil. Plus it works.
    "He only earns his freedom and his life Who takes them every day by storm."

    -- Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, German writer and politician
  • JayhawkerJayhawker Moderator Posts: 17,086 Senior Member
    cpj wrote: »

    In reality, basically anything not safe to drink will remove dirt grime and crud. Of course Saw W will tell you that only products specifically designed for guns are acceptable. BS. Rubbing alcohol, denatured alcohol, Everclear, acetone, mineral spirits, gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel, Coleman Fuel, WD40....you get the point.


    Uhhhh...you can drink Everclear...goes great with grape juice...
    Sharps Model 1874 - "The rifle that made the west safe for Winchester"
  • JayhawkerJayhawker Moderator Posts: 17,086 Senior Member
    cpj wrote: »
    [/B]
    yeah. When you are in high school. :tooth:

    Which was about the last time I tried it...
    Sharps Model 1874 - "The rifle that made the west safe for Winchester"
  • zorbazorba Senior Member Posts: 23,955 Senior Member
    Linkee no workee...

    I've been using Hoppes for much the same reason everybody else does: Dad used it, and it works. With that said, I'm totally onboard with CPJ and the brake cleaner when its time to detail strip and clean my Ruger Mark III (every 600 rds). I'm currently using Hoppes gun oil, although I've heard some bad things about it and will probably go back to Outer's like Dad used. I can understand using ATF or Mobil-1 - but ATF stinks and Mobil-1 isn't a whole lot better. Gun oil smells right to me - as does Hoppes for that matter.

    I do need to get some kind of "copper blast" - Dad's Enfield has a copper plated bbl at this point in time! I need to get with the program and try Jeff in Tx's copper cleaner.

    Interesting subject; yea, we've heard it all before, but its always good to review. Lots of people seem to LOVE EEZOX, but the price scares me!
    -Zorba, "The Veiled Male"

    "If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."
  • waipapa13waipapa13 Senior Member Posts: 846 Senior Member
    WD-40, Lanocote, CRC 5.56, brake cleaner, anything cheap and readily available, gun oil is a rip off, I would like to try Ballistol though, but its price puts me off.
  • JeffnBamaJeffnBama Member Posts: 204 Member
    Hoppes 9 and Rem Oil , just seen Hoppes Cleaner Lube advertised on TV
  • calebibcalebib Senior Member Posts: 1,701 Senior Member
    For really gnarly stuff in guns that have not been cleaned since Nixon was in office, kerosene and a stiff bristle nylon brush. I use a fair bit of carb and choke cleaner for flushing out actions and trigger groups, works great for 10/22 mags. The ultimate "cleaning product" would have to be my blast cabinet with a variety of glass beads grades on hand, kinda the nuclear option though. I've got a big jug of Hoppes that I've been using for several years. I honestly don't use it all that much though, mostly just for spot cleaning applied with a cotton swab. Speaking of which, here are two items that are vital to cleaning as well as a lot of other work around the shop.

    1: Horrible Freight 5 mil nitrile gloves. I go through about a box of these a month, I use them for everything. I also have a box of the heavy duty 7 mil gloves but I don't use them as much. Neither are protection against really nasty solvents but for everything else, they are great. The best thing is that they help me avoid washing my hands as often, they get cracked bad enough as it is. http://www.harborfreight.com/5-mil-nitrile-powder-free-gloves-100-pc-large-68497.html

    2: Long cotton swabs. I buy these in boxes of 1000 from Brownells. Once you have them around, you will find a million uses for them. They are actually a medical grade product, shipped in autoclavable (is that a word?) packages. http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/patches-mops/cleaning-swabs/cotton-tipped-applicators-prod13150.aspx
  • NNNN Senior Member Posts: 24,810 Senior Member
    Breakfree
    S&W bore cleaner
    kroil

    And some other copper solvent
  • bisleybisley Senior Member Posts: 10,798 Senior Member
    I use Hoppes #9 for a basic barrel solvent, spray with CLP and brush and wipe for quick cleaning after a range session, and a tiny drop of Mobil One synthetic for sliding parts.

    When I really get serious, I use anything from soap and water and WD-40 to Sweet's 7.62 - whatever works - and then finish with CLP and a wipe-down, and Mobil One in tiny amounts.
  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 21,391 Senior Member
    Gunslick bore foam for general cleanings,
    Montana Xtreme Copper Killer of there's any blue on the initial patches.
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


  • AntonioAntonio Senior Member Posts: 2,752 Senior Member
    Hoppe's #9 as solvent, WD-40 for cleaning. When oil is required, I use the small oil bottle that comes inside the Outers cleaning kits.

    For corrosive ammo, plain tap water before the usual cleaning procedure.
  • zorbazorba Senior Member Posts: 23,955 Senior Member
    Antonio wrote: »
    For corrosive ammo, plain tap water before the usual cleaning procedure.
    Windex.
    -Zorba, "The Veiled Male"

    "If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."
  • BigDanSBigDanS Senior Member Posts: 6,973 Senior Member
    1. Gunscrubber - Anything that is gnarly cruddy get blasted
    2. Rem Oil - Exterior protectant of choice - internal lube if needed.
    3. Bore Cleaner - from the gun show - generic
    4. Hoppes #9 - because sometimes running a patch through is the only way to make sure it is clean.
    5. Molycoat #33 light - goes on all my semi auto rails as a lube
    "A patriot is mocked, scorned and hated; yet when his cause succeeds, all men will join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." Mark Twain
    Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
  • bobbyrlf3bobbyrlf3 Senior Member Posts: 2,543 Senior Member
    Gunscrubber to start the process
    Gunzilla for details
    Nylon brush, cloth patches, bore snakes and cotton swabs
    Kleenbore gun cloth, well used
    Tetra Lube to finish, and a final wipe down with the cloth
    change out all of the ammo and put 'em away
    Knowledge is essential to living freely and fully; understanding gives knowledge purpose and strength; wisdom is combining the two and applying them appropriately in words and actions.
  • calebibcalebib Senior Member Posts: 1,701 Senior Member
    I forgot to mention one of my favorite gun chemicals, G96. I wipe down pretty much everything with it before it goes back on the rack.

    6196wiXsLHL._SY355_.jpg
  • zorbazorba Senior Member Posts: 23,955 Senior Member
    Wambli Ska wrote: »
    Hoppes #9 has been doing a great job for many decades. There may be better out there if you have a REALLY neglected gun but for everyday general use it's good stuff. I normally have a small pump spray bottle of it in my shooting bag and a rag slightly moistened with Hoppes is a great way to wipe down a gun that's been shot before you put it away in the bag, specially blue guns (DO NOT do this with nickel plated guns, there is just enough ammonia in Hoppes to screw up your plating). Takes off sweaty prints (and sometimes blood :tooth) to protect finishes and makes the cleanup a little easier latter. Shooters Choice makes a Hoppes equivalent (MC #7?) that smells almost the same with just a hair more ammonia. Not a bad alternative.

    This is very informative to me.

    Is there enough ammonia in Hoppes to handle corrosive ammo? Or is it better to do the ol' squirt windex down the bbl, then clean it?
    -Zorba, "The Veiled Male"

    "If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."
  • earlyearly Senior Member Posts: 4,950 Senior Member
    early wrote: »
    Hoppes#9
    Hoppes black powder solvent
    Ballistol
    Shooters Choice
    Kroil
    Isopropyl alcohol
    Windex with ammonia
    Montana Extreme Copper solvent
    Lead away wipe cloths
    :silly::silly::silly::silly::silly::silly:

    I forgot Eezox, brake cleaner, and turpentine.
    My thoughts are generally clear. My typing, not so much.
  • zorbazorba Senior Member Posts: 23,955 Senior Member
    Wambli Ska wrote: »
    I've fired corrosive ammo and a liberal application of Hoppes down the barrel did just fine but that's kind of an expensive way to go. I think Windex or Ballistol are a better first cleaning alternative and then finish with Hoppes.

    Makes sense. Thanx!
    -Zorba, "The Veiled Male"

    "If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."
  • Jeff in TXJeff in TX Senior Member Posts: 2,112 Senior Member
    If you're looking for the best copper bore cleaner KG-12 is by far and away the best. I know everyone has their favorites, sweets, barnes, Montana extreme and the lists goes on. But nothing beats KG-12. On the snipers hide forum a couple of years ago someone ran a test using the top 10 copper cleaners. They weighed 168 gr match bullets and put them into a plastic cup filled with the different copper cleaners. The took pictures of the bullets before going in. Twenty four hours later they took them out, photographed them and re-weighed them. KG-12 beat all contenders by almost 9 to 1 margins. That stuff is water based and has no ammonia and it destroys copper. None of the competitors came close to KG-12 and the amount of copper it dissolved. Actually most copper cleaners did little to nothing. I've also seen another test done on a different forum where they used copper pennies. Again this stuff destroyed the copper and other bore cleaners and is safer on barrel steal.

    I found a new link to a comparison using bullets but they used 30+ copper cleaners. This stuff is incredible if you've got copper fouling issues.
    http://www.laniganperformance.com/kg12testresults.html
    Distance is not an issue, but the wind can make it interesting!

    John 3: 1-21
  • zorbazorba Senior Member Posts: 23,955 Senior Member
    Thanx Jeff - where's a good place to get it? Amazon doesn't seem to carry it.
    -Zorba, "The Veiled Male"

    "If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."
  • snake284snake284 Senior Member Posts: 22,394 Senior Member
    cpj wrote: »
    Hoppes is too expensive for what it is, a general solvent. It sucks at removing copper, rather it doesn't remove copper worth a piss.
    For general cleaning, I've started using non chlorinated brake cleaner.

    This one, specifically.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXKZUQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2/180-0119527-9326321?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=0RG1A80JMMD3D33VVJ55&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687762&pf_rd_i=B000P1R5NE



    In reality, basically anything not safe to drink will remove dirt grime and crud. Of course Saw W will tell you that only products specifically designed for guns are acceptable. BS. Rubbing alcohol, denatured alcohol, Everclear, acetone, mineral spirits, gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel, Coleman Fuel, WD40....you get the point.

    As far as copper cleaning goes, I've had good luck with Gunslick foaming bore cleaner. For oil I use Mobil1 synthetic, and in reality any oil will suffice. Synthetic ain't magical. (I'm blatantly trolling with that statement.

    Hoppes makes a copper cleaner that is different than their standard bore solvent and it works about as well as the rest of them. The best I have used was Deaton's Deep Clean but Carl has gone out of business now. Scott Mayer ran some tests on four or five copper solvents once and Deaton's and one other lead the pack. When I was breaking in a barrel Carl told me to clean it with my favorite copper cleaner and then follow that up with DDC. I did and you won't believe how much copper was left. DDC cleaned it right up. That sold me on it. I miss it now that he doesn't make it anymore. But Hoppe's copper cleaner doesn't do a bad job. I've been using it for about 3 years now. It smells and feels different from regular Hoppe's No. 9. Actually it reminds me of Deatons Deep Clean. It's not quite as aggressive, but it works. I just have to do a couple more applications is all.
    Daddy, what's an enabler?
    Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
  • Jeff in TXJeff in TX Senior Member Posts: 2,112 Senior Member
    zorba wrote: »
    Thanx Jeff - where's a good place to get it? Amazon doesn't seem to carry it.

    It looks as though Midway carries it.

    I really do caution on overdoing your cleaning on your firearms. I wrote a piece a dozen plus years ago on barrel breakin and why it's a waist of time. I had detailed interviews and Q&A sessions with many barrel makers, metallurgist's and some of the top gunsmiths in the country. A micro thin film of copper in your barrel is a great thing to have. It helps fill in the micro grooves of the barrel. I had some very detailed talks with Hart Barrels, Doug Shilen at Shilen barrels,Mike Rock of Rock Creek, Broughton Barrels, and Frank at Bartlien barrels. Never clean your barrel so well that you remove the burnish. Also they will all tell you they replace a lot of barrels that we're damaged from improper cleaning and that had cleaning rod scratches down the bore. There's a ton more on this and what I wrote.

    I posted a video here a while back from a Snipershide interview with Frank at Bartlein barrels. It was part of the 3 piece interview showing how Bartlein makes their barrels. It was really cool. The question of cleaning and barrel breakin came up during the interview and Frank confirmed much of what I had already written on the subject.

    Just my advice or 2 cents on the subject, keep your firearms cleaned and well oiled/greased where they need to be. Don't over do it and go crazy. Hence why I only clean mine at the end of hunting season. I also have a bore scope which helps me really see what my interior bore really looks like!

    If you want to read my write up, it's a sticky on the Snipershide forum under the Gunsmith section
    Distance is not an issue, but the wind can make it interesting!

    John 3: 1-21
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