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Upcoming Re-barrel project - need some input

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  • TeachTeach Posts: 18,428 Senior Member
    The opinions I've heard are that if a barrel is fluted, it should be done first, before the blank is drilled, or rifled. Doing so after the internal machining would probably set up stresses that would be pretty unpredictable. I wonder if the risk of creating a possibly unstable barrel is worth the few ounces of weight loss the fluting would give? The increase in surface area to aid in cooling would only be an advantage in the case of a high-volume shooting situation like with a dedicated prarie dog rig, IMHO.
    Jerry
  • snake284snake284 Posts: 22,429 Senior Member
    I know when I bought the barrel for my .250 Savage when I talked to Shilen about fluting, they told me it would void my warranty on the barrel if I had it fluted for like reasons that have already been given. I ended up getting a Krieger barrel but Shilen scared me away from fluting. Now I find that fluting like Teach says should be done first before the rifling is cut. Also I found out that real cut rifling is not as subject to setting up stresses from fluting as button cut is. Then the should also heat treat the barrel or Kryo it to remove the stress. But there seems to be no issues with the Krieger or Barlein Cut rifling.

    Having said all this BS, I don't want my barrel fluted. I had my last two builds bead blasted as fluting does little if anything to disapate heat. Bead blasting is way more efficient for that. However, I do like the idea of a fluted bolt. A fluted bolt doesnt'get hot like a barrel and fluting cuts down on the drag and weight, making the bolt seem smoother to operate. I think fluted bolts look very nice.
    Daddy, what's an enabler?
    Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
  • TeachTeach Posts: 18,428 Senior Member
    Gun building procedures seem to fall into two pretty distinct categories, things that improve performance, accuracy, etc., and things that improve the eye appeal of the finished product. Bull barrels, air-gauged rifling, triggers that let go when a shooter just thinks hard about firing, custom scope mounts, high dollar optics, etc. all contribute to shooting tiny groups or doing whatever the hunter/shooter wants the gun to do. I've seen some butt-ugly muzzleloaders that look like a rough-turned barrel blank has been attached to a 4X4 fencepost with baling wire and duct tape, but they shoot tiny groups that win chunk gun matches. Then there's the "London Best Double" shotgun that costs more than I paid for 100 acres of Tennessee farmland. The difference is the artistic talent of the gun builder, and the quality of the wood, the engarving, and the fit and finish that makes it "fine art that shoots".

    Fluting is eye candy, plain and simple. If it cranks your tractor, go for it!
    Jerry
  • jbohiojbohio Posts: 5,618 Senior Member
    knitepoet wrote: »
    Hey, I haven't said it is or isn't good or bad to flute a barrel. I've just provided opposing viewpoints from two well known barrel makers, so :p

    :jester: :wink:

    I remember when we talked about this one other time, the same opposing view points. I guess my decision is to NOT buy a fluted Shilen barrel. Or maybe any Shilen.
    The three rifles I own with fluted barrels shoot well. My 204 is fluted.
  • Ernie BishopErnie Bishop Posts: 8,606 Senior Member
    Yes, you are saying they are bad--I think it is a subliminal message you are saying in every post, "Shilen is Bad!" "Shilen is Bad!" "Shilen is Bad!":roll2::rotflmao::wink:
    BPsniper wrote: »
    Let me clarify folks......I'm not saying Shilen barrels are bad.
    Ernie

    "The Un-Tactical"
  • Ernie BishopErnie Bishop Posts: 8,606 Senior Member
    I knew I heard the subliminal message wrong. Of course, that is the problem with subliminal messages:roll2:
    "Shilen barrels are Bad!" "Shilen barrels are Bad!" "Shilen barrels are Bad!" Better? :angel2:
    BPsniper wrote: »
    Hey, I like their triggers!!
    Ernie

    "The Un-Tactical"
  • prozium451prozium451 Posts: 130 Member
    Time to raise this from the dead.

    Scott, if you gotta tinker with something I know of a certain Savage that still has her virginity. And she's not very far from where you're sitting. Just sayin'
  • JayhawkerJayhawker Posts: 18,356 Senior Member
    Yep...just not sure what to do with it yet...there are soooo many options...but it DOES like 180 grain NBTs...
    Sharps Model 1874 - "The rifle that made the west safe for Winchester"
  • prozium451prozium451 Posts: 130 Member
    I've been meaning to stow away some cash for that project but I have certain other obligations to fulfill first.
  • JayhawkerJayhawker Posts: 18,356 Senior Member
    You just keep stowing....the other stuff has priority....let me worry about the rifle...
    Sharps Model 1874 - "The rifle that made the west safe for Winchester"
  • tjsvet50tjsvet50 Posts: 147 Member
    Hey Scott, good decision on the 260 and the 24" bbl. The flues are a good idea. With flues, it provides more surface to the barrel, helping cool a bit faster, and lightening it a bit.
  • BigslugBigslug Posts: 9,858 Senior Member
    Funny. I got bored with cartridges that weren't boring. To each his own.

    To me, the whole attraction to the .264 bullet diameter is high BC and high SD. A .260 that's optimized for a 130 grain pill that won't stabilize the 162 Oswald Express is supremely uninteresting.

    I'd go 1-8", 26", and see how it does with the slow burners.
    WWJMBD?

    "Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
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