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Talk to me about my rear end
I have a 2009 GMC Sierra, 160,000 miles. I'd like to upgrade the suspension for towing.
Is it as simple as buying some Biltstein shocks and adding an add-a-leaf helper? I'm not towing anything that heavy. But I can't imagine that shocks are designed to last for 160,000 miles.
Any advice?
Secondly, I have a 3:08 rear end that I want to swap for a 3:73. I'm having trouble finding one with drum brakes because I don't really want to redo all the brake crap. The 3:08 sucks donkey balls for towing and speed, and I can't tell that it gets any better gas mileage for town driving. Sure, maybe if I went 600 miles on the interstate the extra 300 rpms would cost, but I can't understand why anyone would want a 3:08. CAFE standards, I guess?
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Is it as simple as buying some Biltstein shocks and adding an add-a-leaf helper? I'm not towing anything that heavy. But I can't imagine that shocks are designed to last for 160,000 miles.
Any advice?
Secondly, I have a 3:08 rear end that I want to swap for a 3:73. I'm having trouble finding one with drum brakes because I don't really want to redo all the brake crap. The 3:08 sucks donkey balls for towing and speed, and I can't tell that it gets any better gas mileage for town driving. Sure, maybe if I went 600 miles on the interstate the extra 300 rpms would cost, but I can't understand why anyone would want a 3:08. CAFE standards, I guess?
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Replies
Bearing preload, backlash, shims, bearings, heavy carrier, crush sleeve = pain in the ass.
Chevy has been using a 3.08 gear ratio in the rear of automatic transmission cars since the 1950's, so it's nothing new. 3.73's are for the standard trans cars, but you'll definitely be able to accelerate much faster with the 3.73 gear ratio. It seems to me just putting in new shocks would take care of hauling a trailer with a class 2 hitch on it.
See this website for hitch categories:
http://www.autoanything.com/towing/how-to-select-the-right-hitch-class.aspx
If the rear end is not posi-traction I would consider swapping it out.
Towing a heavy load in the heat up and down hills might be better to have a **** cooler as well. Have you thought about your cooling system and radiator?
A heavier suspension and new shocks will help you with a heavier tounge weight, but if you are going to tow over 5000 lbs over distance you should also look into a weight distribution hitch.
And finally, it isn't about towing 7000 lbs as much as it is controlling and stopping 7000 lbs... You need to make sure you have brakes in a heavy trailer and an actuator.
D
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
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Then you likely do not need any upgrades to your rear end, **** or suspension. Shocks at 160 k could be swapped out.
D
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
ALWAYS use an auxiliary **** cooler when towing with an automatic transmission. Always.
I've got a trip to Indiana coming up that I'm going to have to pull a good sized trailer.
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Have you looked at air bag helper springs? Install a set of those and just use a Schrader valve and skip the air compressor. I have a buddy who did that after his air compressor quit. He likes it just fine, he can air up for whatever the load is and dump air when he is done so the ride isn't quite as stiff.
Dad 5-31-13
Why not? There is a U joint back there for a reason.
Dad 5-31-13
A loud radio can help if it's off. :driving:
BAM! :rotflmao:
ETA - mine also had drum breaks on the rear.
There is no harm in a little extra traction. Besides without posi the pickup is a one wheel wonder and has a good chance of getting stuck in a piss puddle on grass or dirt especially with highway tires.
Dad 5-31-13
Unless I'm mistaken, they all swapped to drums.
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There's some great irony here in that the first time that I went to the SE shoot, I followed Dan to Jerry's house and after he took a wrong turn, he backed into some wet grass to turn around and almost got stuck.
Yea, yea! :tooth:
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It is.
Sure be alot less expense and work to just drive slower. What's the rush? Slow down, enjoy the ride. You may avoid the above ailment.
Take your existing truck, even if it is a Chevy, slide the hitch into the receiver with the right ball on it. Remember, ALWAYS grease your balls. Back up until the ball is under the trailer hitch. Lower trailer onto ball. Latch hitch and pin it. Hook up your chains, cross them left to right and right to left under the hitch. Connect the plug. Get in the truck and drive away.
:agree: This...
Under 5000 you shouldn't worry about it too much. My Titan doesn't have the tow package and has 2.97 gears, its still rated at 7500lbs. Yours has to be at least that. I pull my 5500lb travel trailer around in our hilly terrain with 0 issues. I take OD off and put it into "tow mode" and i'll do 65-70mph at ~2100 rpm. The stability bars help and I have a trailer brake controller but, again, less than 5000lbs i'm not sure all of that is necessary.
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This. The diff swap is no big deal, but it's unnecessary. If you plan to tow often, look into airbags. You can go as simple or as convenient (no thinking necessary) as you want. This is the brand I'm familiar with, but there are dozens out there.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/suspension-air-bags/firestone-air-bag-kits&ved=0ahUKEwiv4fvw-bHTAhWi8YMKHW3zDY8QFgguMAA&usg=AFQjCNGKM2nMAQHeQLY75IOPs2MMP0mtCw&sig2=GdRr2QklYpb_K44Miji3Ig
George Carlin