Jermanator - question

BuffcoBuffco Senior MemberPosts: 6,244 Senior Member
I closed in my garage a couple of years ago. Sheathed the outside with PT T-111 and used a PT 2x6 as the exterior "base board". I siliconed the crap out of the gap. Noticed that the silicone has shrunk and pulled away in a few areas from the sheathing. It's in a fairly wet area, because there is a roof valley just to the side of what used to be the garage opening.

What would you use in this application to seal it up?

Edit to add: There are two areas I'm trying to seal. The upper joint between the sheathing and 2x6, and at the bottom where the 2x6 runs along the concrete.

Replies

  • AxeAxe Member Posts: 375 Member
    I have a spot in the back of the house where I have a gap from settling under our addition. I sealed it up with GE Silicone II concrete caulk and it works really well. Takes 30 minutes to cure and good to go. Will adhere to wood and concrete, but not really paintable. It is pure silicone and wont dry, shrink or crack supposedly.


    http://www.caulkyourhome.com/ge-silicone-II-concrete-and-masonry-caulk.php
  • jbohiojbohio Senior Member Posts: 5,520 Senior Member
    More than likely, it's not the silicone that shrank. It's the wood drying out.
    Urethane caulk is much more flexible than silicone. Up to 300% expansion. It's what they use to caulk the seams in the big precast concrete warehouses. Those things flex and expand like crazy.
  • JermanatorJermanator Senior Member Posts: 15,503 Senior Member
    Both poop and water run down hill. Since you will never win against gravity, the best way to do that would have been with a flashing of some sort. It wouldn't be sealed so much as the wetness would be directed down. At the bottom of the T-111, I would have had a piece of aluminum bent up where it slides under the siding... then I would install the "baseboard" under that. Like this....
    6a00e550bbaeb388340133f5a37cb5970b-450wi
  • BuffcoBuffco Senior Member Posts: 6,244 Senior Member
    jbohio wrote: »
    More than likely, it's not the silicone that shrank. It's the wood drying out.

    I didn't think about that... That makes more sense.

    I'm not gonna paint it, so no worries there.
  • BuffcoBuffco Senior Member Posts: 6,244 Senior Member
    Yeah, I thought about flashing like, 6 months after I'd installed it. Whoops.

    What about where the board meets the concrete?
  • JermanatorJermanator Senior Member Posts: 15,503 Senior Member
    The bottom area? There is no good way other than to have things slope away. Gravity is your best friend. No matter what you use, stuff will never seal like you hope it will. The polyurethane Joe suggested is good stuff....
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/OSI-10-fl-oz-Gray-No-517-QUAD-Advanced-Formula-Window-Door-and-Siding-Sealant-1634305/203357922

    You have to look at it as a drainage issue and not a waterproofing issue to see the problem correctly though.
  • JermanatorJermanator Senior Member Posts: 15,503 Senior Member
    If I was going to your house to fix your problem, hated your guts and wanted to do this once so I would never get a call back and have to see your ugly face again, I would mark the siding 1/2" above your "baseboard", make my cut with a saw all around the bottom, pull off the baseboard, install a flashing behind the siding, another flashing that would go at the very bottom-- behind and below the baseboard, then reinstall the baseboard.

    That would not leak after that as long as the ground around it is sloped away from the garage.
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