Old Guns ......New Guns

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  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Managed to get another one together. Still need to find 2 butt plates for this.


  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    From what I have read the 1904 - 97 has a metal butt plate & the 1929 - 97 has a plastic butt plate.
    Trying to put these together right.
  • Big Al1Big Al1 Senior Member Posts: 6,777 Senior Member
    Very nice! Those things can be a real pain to put back together!!
  • snake284snake284 Senior Member Posts: 21,132 Senior Member
    Old Ron wrote: »
    Managed to get another one together. Still need to find 2 butt plates for this.


    97s are great if your trigger is in good shape. Worn sears and triggers make them dangerous. I like Model 12s more better.
    Daddy, what's an enabler?
    Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
  • Wambli SkaWambli Ska Moderator Posts: 27,037 Senior Member
    Old Ron wrote: »
    From what I have read the 1904 - 97 has a metal butt plate & the 1929 - 97 has a plastic butt plate.
    Trying to put these together right.
    For what it’s worth, my 1914 ‘97 has a plastic but plate. Just checked all original.
    "Attack rapidly, ruthlessly, viciously, without rest, however tired and hungry you may be, the enemy will be more tired, more hungry. Keep punching." General George S. Patton
  • Wambli SkaWambli Ska Moderator Posts: 27,037 Senior Member
    Your ‘04 should have a smooth steel rounded but plate like this one...
    Win-97-108397C-002.jpg
    "Attack rapidly, ruthlessly, viciously, without rest, however tired and hungry you may be, the enemy will be more tired, more hungry. Keep punching." General George S. Patton
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Big Al1 wrote: »
    Very nice! Those things can be a real pain to put back together!!

    Have 2 of these & they have 83 peaces each & were scattered all over the place along will all sorts of other gun parts.
    It is turning into a lot bigger job than I thought it would be.
    I have to order a few things tomorrow & plan to get a diamond template to try some checkering. ( will try it on some old stocks first ! )
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Wambli Ska wrote: »
    Your ‘04 should have a smooth steel rounded but plate like this one...
    Win-97-108397C-002.jpg

    No photo showed up with your post. The 1 I found here is steel with a v notch that fits to the top of the stock.
    Are those supposed to be blued steel ? If so I will have to throw that in my blueing pile.
  • Wambli SkaWambli Ska Moderator Posts: 27,037 Senior Member
    That’s the one. I don’t know if they were originally blue or “in the white”.
    "Attack rapidly, ruthlessly, viciously, without rest, however tired and hungry you may be, the enemy will be more tired, more hungry. Keep punching." General George S. Patton
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Was looking for a butt stock bolt for the 96...... found one on line @ Jackfirst ......15 bucks for the bolt .......10 bucks shipping .! Now for plan "B" I can make one for a lot less than 25 bucks. It doesn't seem like you can find all the parts you need in 1 place so you get stuck with all kinds of shipping charges. I remember when crooks wore a mask !
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Big Al1 wrote: »

    That's the one Al ......... will be ordering it in the morning ( first thing )
    Thanks !
  • Big Al1Big Al1 Senior Member Posts: 6,777 Senior Member
    Old Ron wrote: »
    That's the one Al ......... will be ordering it in the morning ( first thing )
    Thanks !

    E bay is your gun parts friend!!
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Big Al1 wrote: »
    E bay is your gun parts friend!!

    Even better when I looked at it there I saw it was being sold by Numirch so I went to there site.
    E bay was 9.95 for the bolt.......at Numirch it was 4.65 so this AM I ordered at Numirch.
    But wouldn't have found it if you didn't tell me about E bay so thanks again Al !
    ( seem to be saying that a lot on here ) I hope some time I can do the same for others on here.
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Found the 2 butt plates for the 97 s
    I hope some time today to put 1 on & get a done stamp on that one.
    The second one will be complete but needing a bunch of work done to it.
    That one will sit in the todo rack for later.
    I have been asked when I will have all my projects done...... never seems to be the answer.
    I get 1 done & then 4 more pop up.
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Work got in the way yesterday of the butt plate so maybe today it will get the done stamp.
    Did manage to stop at a couple friends shops to see there projects. ( both those guys are really talented )
    It is tough to do what you really like & make a living too.
  • Big Al1Big Al1 Senior Member Posts: 6,777 Senior Member
    Old Ron wrote: »
    Work got in the way yesterday of the butt plate so maybe today it will get the done stamp.
    Did manage to stop at a couple friends shops to see there projects. ( both those guys are really talented )
    It is tough to do what you really like & make a living too.

    Once it turns into work it's not fun anymore!
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Big Al1 wrote: »
    Once it turns into work it's not fun anymore!

    My work makes money but lately it seems to be a distraction.
    I usually try to spend at least 1 hr a day on each project.
    Problem is with 10 projects going at once it makes for long days .
    This weekend I am safe to make some headway ......no auctions until next weekend.
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Well that really sucks !
    Bought a new butt plate for the Winchester 96 ..........it doesn't fit.
    Not even close enough to make it work.
    No done stamp on that 1 today.
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    This sanding is really slow Al. I don't know how you do it.
    I break it up by sanding 1 time then draw a bit on my checkering design & keep thinking power sanders & a cad program would be a lot faster. ( Don't worry I will hand sand it all the way & hand checker ) Then when I need a break from guns I go work in the toy tractor .I have that completely tore down now & am trying different ways to get the rust off the thin tin.
    May try my plasma cutter out on the steel I bought to build a bullet trap.Then back to drawing & sanding.
  • Big Al1Big Al1 Senior Member Posts: 6,777 Senior Member
    Old Ron wrote: »
    This sanding is really slow Al. I don't know how you do it.
    I break it up by sanding 1 time then draw a bit on my checkering design & keep thinking power sanders & a cad program would be a lot faster. ( Don't worry I will hand sand it all the way & hand checker ) Then when I need a break from guns I go work in the toy tractor .I have that completely tore down now & am trying different ways to get the rust off the thin tin.
    May try my plasma cutter out on the steel I bought to build a bullet trap.Then back to drawing & sanding.

    It is slow and you use a lot of paper! Start with 80 or 100 grit and sand until all rasp marks are gone, then switch to 220 and sand until the marks from the courser grit is gone. If you are removing old finish, scrape it off with a cabinet scraper. It goes faster and doesn't clog up like paper. After 220 I put on the sealer finish and when dry, start wet sanding with 320 wet/dry. Make sure you use some sort of sanding block to keep your edges sharp and leave butt plate and grip cap on so you don't remove to much wood and leave gaps. The weather this week has slowed down my progress, to rainy and now cold to work in the garage!
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    My shop here is heated & has AC. The country shop has no heat or AC.
    Not much room to work in both shops. ( I may be a hoarder ) Naaaaaaaaa couldn't be that !
    I am running low on sandpaper & know I have a couple tubs of it ..... someplace.
    By the time I get this all sanded & finished I hope to have the checkering practice done.
    Then I will decide if I should try a good peace of wood.
    I managed to catch a cold so going to a unheated shop today to work is a really great idea.
    I guess if I keep moving it won't be to bad .... I'll let ya know on that one.
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    That was a bad idea !
    We had a inch of ice & snow by the time I left the shop
    A 30 min drive took an hour & a half with people in ditches all over the place.
    Our city & county taxes were not at work yesterday.
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Found out why that butt plate wouldn't fit on the 97.......the stock is 2 " shorter.
    Now to decide is it worth buying a new stock for or just find a plate that fits & put a done stamp on it.
    I don't think these old 97 s are worth much.
    Any Ideas ?
  • Big Al1Big Al1 Senior Member Posts: 6,777 Senior Member
    Old Ron wrote: »
    Found out why that butt plate wouldn't fit on the 97.......the stock is 2 " shorter.
    Now to decide is it worth buying a new stock for or just find a plate that fits & put a done stamp on it.
    I don't think these old 97 s are worth much.
    Any Ideas ?

    They're worth more than you think! They've become very popular with the cowboy shooters. Check e bay for a stock. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=1897+winchester&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X1897+winchester+buttstock.TRS0&_nkw=1897+winchester+buttstock&_sacat=0
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Big Al1 wrote: »

    I looked there & see they are around $70 ....was told the whole gun was only worth about 400 so adding 70 to what I have in it would be a expensive look at gun. I only shoot newer rifles & pistols.
    Doing the wood work in the winter is fun but soon as it is back to 60 I try to get some shooting in to relax.
    Buying a total gunsmith shop may not have been one of my better ideas but it did make trying new things really inexpensive for me to try. Just having something that takes my mind off electronics is a nice break.( not to mention having to deal with idiots every day )
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    Moved my hot blue tanks out to the other shop. ( ran out of room here )
    With wood work & finding parts I think I will have lots to keep me busy this winter here.
    Having snow blowers & wood in my shop puts a cramp on welding projects. ( need to build that bullet trap )
    Managed to get some blasting done on the tractor project ( ran out of glass media ) Next summer I will get 10 or so bags to keep on hand out there. Fine glass does a nice job on barrels but ya go through a lot very fast. With my new polish wheels the metal is mirror in no time. I bought a small detail shop last year so I have loads of polish. Come to think of it I don't know what I don't have loads of .........oh ya that would be MONEY. ( working on that )
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    What is the most common LPI for a 3 to 1 diamond pattern ?
    After learning a bit about checkering I look at a stock a whole different way.
    I see lines cut badly & cross into the border lines , the side diamond points are not matched on both sides & on & on.
    I hope I don't make those mistakes on mine. If I do I will be doing a lot of sanding & throw out the tools lol
  • Big Al1Big Al1 Senior Member Posts: 6,777 Senior Member
    Probably easier to start with sixteen LPI. The type of wood makes a big difference, too. Softer woods like black and Claro walnut do better with coarser checkering. Fine English walnut is denser and holds up better to finer checkering. 22LPI is about the finest I do, anything smaller is best left for non-gripping areas, like a skeleton grip cap or butt plate. One of the hardest things to do is try and draw/cut a straight master guide line over a curved surface. I use a piece of metal tape measure, I sacrificed an old one. It will bend around an entire fore arm and still make a straight edge to guide you cutter. I use a short blade stiff bench knife to cut the master lines in, then cut them deeper with the V tool. Cut your lines in using the master as your guide and check each line for straightness. Cut diamonds to full depth with several passes, and correct your mistakes as they occur, there will be some, before they are cut to full depth. If you make an uncorrectable mistake, you don't have to start over, I have simple ways to fix them so you won't even know it's been repaired.
  • Old RonOld Ron Senior Member Posts: 2,540 Senior Member
    I am designing a 3 panel for the front grip.
    The stock grip I won't even attempt until I see how the tools work on flat surfaces first.
    I really shouldn't worry about it on a scrap stock......I'm old what can I say.
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