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What do you look for in a great CLP or gun oil?

SevenFoxes07SevenFoxes07 Posts: 2 New Member
Hey everyone.

I'd love to know what you all look for in a good gun oil or CLP. I'm kinda new to gun ownership and I'm not sure what makes a CLP good.

I read that you shouldn't use CLP and instead separate the "cleaning" from the "lubricating" and "protecting" parts. Is that true?

I've also read a lot of good reviews on paste CLPs like FrogLube, but the bad reviews scare the bejeezus out of me...

Gumming up guns, making them unusable... ruining hunts (and potentially getting you killed in the wrong the situation!)

So, what kinds of things makes a CLP or gun oil great? Or, what should I definitely stay away from?

Thank you!

Replies

  • SpkSpk Senior Member Posts: 3,962 Senior Member
    Personally, I don't look too deep into the requirements. Some folks do. They have different needs or expectations than I do and that's fine.
    Beyond CLP'ing, I want something that doesn't run off or evaporated/dry off to quickly. But I don't want it gumming up the works down the road.
    If you want a more detailed explanation. Read these reviews. It's a good starting point. Then go from there.

    Gun Oils

    CLP's


    Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience -- Mark Twain
    How easy it is to make people believe a lie, and [how] hard it is to undo that work again! -- Mark Twain

  • JayhawkerJayhawker Moderator Posts: 16,917 Senior Member
    edited April 2019 #3
    The OP would probably be surprised at the number of folks who use automotive products to lube their firearms...
    Mobile One synthetic for most of my firearms
    Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid for my ARs...
    Sharps Model 1874 - "The rifle that made the west safe for Winchester"
  • WeatherbyWeatherby Senior Member Posts: 4,953 Senior Member
    edited April 2019 #4
    I'm  with Jayhawk and throw some kroil in too.
    That oil is just creepy 
  • earlyagainearlyagain Posts: 6,749 Senior Member
    edited April 2019 #5
    Im going to switch to ATF when my Moble 1 synthetic runs out. Just on the word of a member that posts here.

    I guess if it stays on the metal, prevents rust, and seems to provide lubricity I'm happy. The only issue I've run into is the aluminum slide for my 22 conversion kit on my stainless steel 1911 frame. It needs good lubricity to function. The spray can graphite stuff I got at the Homedespot on sale has worked best. Go figure???
  • JerryBobCoJerryBobCo Senior Member Posts: 7,934 Senior Member

    I've tried a of different products, and don't really have a preference. 

    Welcome to the funny farm.  There are a lot of very knowledgeable folks who can offer a lot of good advice.

    Jerry

    Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 11,734 Senior Member
    Break Free works fine for me...Cleaning, Lubricant, Protectant.  I am not a cleaning fanatic, nor a lubricant fanatic.  On anything but fully autos, (which I don't own) I go minimalist.
    Concealed carry is for protection, open carry is for attention.
  • bellcatbellcat Senior Member Posts: 1,854 Senior Member
    I've used several products, but usually end up with Hoppe's 9 and either Rem oil or WD40.   I think the most important thing is to just be religious and steady in your cleaning.
    "Kindness is the language the deaf can hear and the blind can see." Mark Twain
  • LinefinderLinefinder Moderator Posts: 7,030 Senior Member
    Rowing upstream here, but I tend toward cleaning "Marine Corps clean", then running them dry. If I shot much volume through auto-loaders I might take lubricants a bit more seriously.

    Mike
    "Walking away seems to be a lost art form."
    N454casull
  • AccipiterAccipiter New Member Posts: 885 Senior Member
    I use automotive products also.  10-40 synthetic, and atf.  
    Apparently free thought is punished, and conformity is required, while peckerless cowards run the show.

    ECHO...ECHO....echo...

    Ah......One savors the hypocrisy!

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  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 11,734 Senior Member
    Rowing upstream here, but I tend toward cleaning "Marine Corps clean", then running them dry. If I shot much volume through auto-loaders I might take lubricants a bit more seriously.

    Mike

    Yeah, me too. How many moving parts in a bolt gun?  Too much oil can attract grit.
    Concealed carry is for protection, open carry is for attention.
  • BigslugBigslug Senior Member Posts: 8,255 Senior Member
    Hey everyone.

    I'd love to know what you all look for in a good gun oil or CLP. I'm kinda new to gun ownership and I'm not sure what makes a CLP good.

    I read that you shouldn't use CLP and instead separate the "cleaning" from the "lubricating" and "protecting" parts. Is that true?

    I've also read a lot of good reviews on paste CLPs like FrogLube, but the bad reviews scare the bejeezus out of me...

    Gumming up guns, making them unusable... ruining hunts (and potentially getting you killed in the wrong the situation!)

    So, what kinds of things makes a CLP or gun oil great? Or, what should I definitely stay away from?

    Thank you!
    CLP is the ideal for AR-15's because it serves to somewhat clean the operating parts of the bolt carrier group as the gun runs.  Think of it as the oil in your engine, minus the circulating pump and filter.  It keeps the buildup to a minimum.

    I also like Break Free / CLP as a "carry one thing" option, and as a "give to the lowest common denominator" choice.  

    Frog Lube. . .I wouldn't use it on anything BUT AR-15's where heat decreases its viscosity.  I've had it goo up on pump shotguns to the point where they are hard to cycle.

    Grease is helpful for locking lugs, cam surfaces, and bolt rails in a system where carbon is not being introduced to the area of those parts.

    Beyond that, unless you're running in extreme environments, or run towards the "neglect" end of the gun care spectrum, I don't much sweat product A versus product B.  Any firearm worth a damn can run on Crisco, Mazola, bacon grease, and pencil lead in the short term provided you get in and clean/refresh periodically.
    WWJMBD?

    "Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
  • snake284snake284 Senior Member Posts: 22,394 Senior Member
    Hey everyone.

    I'd love to know what you all look for in a good gun oil or CLP. I'm kinda new to gun ownership and I'm not sure what makes a CLP good.

    I read that you shouldn't use CLP and instead separate the "cleaning" from the "lubricating" and "protecting" parts. Is that true?

    I've also read a lot of good reviews on paste CLPs like FrogLube, but the bad reviews scare the bejeezus out of me...

    Gumming up guns, making them unusable... ruining hunts (and potentially getting you killed in the wrong the situation!)

    So, what kinds of things makes a CLP or gun oil great? Or, what should I definitely stay away from?

    Thank you!
    My advice, don't over think it. Just keep it clean. Don't let things rust. Keep your guns wiped down and clean. The action is more important than what you use. I use either Rem-Oil or Liquid Wrench Spray. I also have some furniture wax here that I will put on the stock and rub in well once in a while. If something is really Funky I'll break out the Brake Cleaner, then wipe that off and follow up with the Rem-Oil or Liquid wrench. Be careful with brake cleaner if you have a nicely finished wood stock or any wood stock you don't want to mess up. Brake cleaner will destroy a wood finish.
    Daddy, what's an enabler?
    Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 27,395 Senior Member
    ATF, Mobile 1, lithium grease for slide rails. Ballistol for outside metal protection. I'll go to 10w30 in a pinch. Cold weather I go to atomized graphite on autoloaders; mix it with Mobil 1 oil as a carrier. The atomized graphite is like baby  ball bearings and makes stuff run slick, fast, and no freezeups in cold weather, and LIGHT on the oil carrier as it can get gummy when it's cold.
      I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer”
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  • Uncle FesterUncle Fester Senior Member Posts: 1,371 Senior Member
    edited April 2019 #15
    I use Hoppe’s to clean and Ballistol for lubrication.  Why? Habit for the most part.

    With the exception of wiping down the outside of my safe queens regularly With Ballistol, I don’t go through much oil.

    On actual gun parts, I use a small bottle with a syringe to add a drop at a time where it is needed.
  • NNNN Senior Member Posts: 24,712 Senior Member
    Reasonable cleaning and rust protection.
    Shut up-----KAREN; OK Cynthia
  • SevenFoxes07SevenFoxes07 Posts: 2 New Member
    Thank you everyone for your insights! I appreciate your advice. 
  • VarmintmistVarmintmist Senior Member Posts: 7,398 Senior Member
    Brake free on the AR's, run wet.
    Bolt guns and revolvers are Ballistol and dry
    BP rifles and handguns are water, WD-40, and ballistol.
    M1 Garand and carbine are grease, whatever is in the grease gun
    Pistols are ballistol then dry, slides some kind of dry lube or grease if I am feeling retro

    It's boring, and your lack of creativity knows no bounds.
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