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There is no “one size fits all” cleaning kit that works well.
But I bet almost everyone on here started with a kit like that. Some were lucky enough to have a father or mentor teach them right rest of us went with what the Military taught us or listened to advertisements. Start with a one piece cleaning rod. There are several out there Tipton and Dewey come to mind but there are others. There is no one size fits all. They are not cheap, but will last for many years.
Get the end pieces you will need, pick a cleaner and lube and go from there.
There are too many to name but for lube Autonatic Transmission Fluid works great and one bottle will give you a lifetime supply for a couple bucks.
Others will add more but few if any will reccomend those kits
I also have a set of jags to push patches through the bore. Loops will do, but aren't as tight and I think don't clean as well. Patches, CLP, maybe some lithium grease, rags, and a toothbrush. If you're cleaning rifles, copper solvent as well as bore solvent.
Bronze bore brushes. Nylon won't clean and SS, never. Too harsh. And always when you can with a rifle clean from the chamber.
I keep my cleaning stuff in a sealable plastic box about 14" long and 8" wide and 3" deep. It holds everything except, of course, rifle rods and I can set it in my lap and not get spillage. It will hold a pistol rod. Pretty handy. It's taken me a while to collect materials and before the box I lost a lot of bore brushes. Either Dewey or Tipton rifle rods have to have an adaptor to fit the threads on most cleaning brushes.
Also, for bolt guns, there is a plastic chamber tool to guide the patch directly from the chamber into the bore so you don't mess around the chamber with the steel rod and slop a bunch of bore cleaner where it doesn't need to be.
Other stuff people will sound off on.
Basically one needs solvent to clean metalic, carbon, and powder fouling. A way to apply that solvent that doesn't harm the firearm. Lubrication and preservative to protect the mechanisms and aid in smooth operation.
Optics require special care to keep clean.
Some finishes need special attention to protect them.
As this thread goes on you'll get a good idea of what you need. Its not a big deal. It took me along time to accumulate all the junk I wound up with. You can likely avoid alot of that.
As far as cleaning goes, I've only been to the range a few times, so I was just thinking basic maintenance and being a novice... I saw one of those kits as something that would be helpful. I also have already gotten some supplies I will put in a picture after this.
I appreciate the help!
-Brass Jag & Brownell’s Patches
-VFG Adapter & VFG Felt Pellets (caliber specific)
-Q-Tips (cardboard stems not plastic)
BoreTech Cu+2 Copper Remover
Shooter’s Choice/Kroil Oil (50/50 Mix)
A good dental pick set.
Take a 1-foot chunk of solid core copper wire, strip the insulation off the last inch, pound it flat with a hammer and clip it off to form a chisel tip. One of the best non-marring, all-purpose carbon scrapers you'll ever own.
Lots of specialty solvents and lube out there:
Break Free CLP is my general one-and-done, especially for direct gas AR's.
Ballistol - limited use for black powder, corrosive ammo clean up, leather.
Hoppes oil - usually, I just use Break Free, but this is great for "lube only" jobs. My wife's sewing machine runs on this - sometimes I borrow my bottle back.
Shooter's Choice copper solvent or Sweet's 7.62. You need some kind of copper solvent around. I don't use it often, but better to have and not need.
Grease of some kind. I ain't fussy, but stuff like piston-rifle and bolt actions like it. I've used the dedicated gun stuff like Lubriplate and TW-25, Sta-Lube Moly-Graph, bicycle bearing grease, and marine grease (I was never sure if it was made by, for, or of Marines )
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
Depends on what you need. Most likely, I would say closer for you.
Great info already posted. Start moving to one piece rods that are the largest diameter you can use for the guns you need to clean. I use Tipton carbon fiber rods. Rifle rod sizes are for 17 cal, 22-27 cal, 30 cal and up. Pistol rods are 22-27 and 30 cal and larger. I can clean everything I need to clean except shotguns with those 5 rods. I still use a large diameter 3 piece rod for shotguns. But I don’t use or clean shotguns enough to justify spending the money on a dedicated shotgun rod.
Tipton makes a nice set of brushes and jags that will cover 17-45 caliber. That’s what I use.
Ive tried seemingly every cleaner and solvent out there. Some are ok, some suck. Hoppes pretty much sucks. Stay away from any product that claims to do everything. Personally, I’ve settled on Montana Extreme copper solvent, Shooters Choice bore solvent, sometimes mixed with Kroil if I have it, and automatic transmission fluid for general lubrication. You also need grease for spots where you want the lube to stay put. I’ve been using the same tube of Wilson Combat grease for around 15 years. Before that, I used Tetra gun grease, which I don’t recommend in hot weather. It liked to separate and give a squirt of thin oil prior to the grease coming out. Much like a ketchup or mustard bottle does if you don’t shake it. But I could almost never knead the grease tube enough to prevent it.
A good set of picks and scrapers and some q-tips are mandatory. Like Zee said, cardboard or even better, wood q-tips if you can find them.
Get good quality patches that are sized for the bore diameter. Cotton or flannel. Not the cheap little squares that come in most kits. Those things suck. Poking a jag through a patch mid bore all the time sucks. If you have time and patience, you can sit and cut old white T-shirts into patches. I choose to buy them pre cut. If money is an issue, you can buy the largest size patches you need and cut them down to smaller sizes as needed. I keep 3 sizes. 17-22, 30 cal and 45 cal. Those pretty much cover all my bore sizes.
Break Free CLP and Ballistol. Bore scrubber for really bad jobs.
Bore snakes are growing on me, but don’t take the place of a good rod.