Rifle bedding

gunner81

I picked up a Weatherby Vangard  30-06 with a Boyds thumbhole stock It looks to be unfired or at least fired very little I would like to free float the barrel and re scope it right now its wearing a Bushnell 3x9 any info on what to use or tips on how to do this

shotgunshooter3

Free floating is simple enough. Take an appropriately sized dowel rod wrapped in sand paper, and open up the barrel channel to the desired diameter to clear the barrel. Then reseal the exposed wood with whatever coating you prefer.

Changing the scope is fairly straightforward as well.

Bigslug

gunner81 said:

I picked up a Weatherby Vangard  30-06 with a Boyds thumbhole stock It looks to be unfired or at least fired very little I would like to free float the barrel and re scope it right now its wearing a Bushnell 3x9 any info on what to use or tips on how to do this

Take it to the range and see it it's broke before you go fixing it.  Free-floating is a useful tool to have in the bag, but it's not the end-all, be-all of accuracy.

Jayhawker

Bigslug said:

gunner81 said:

I picked up a Weatherby Vangard  30-06 with a Boyds thumbhole stock It looks to be unfired or at least fired very little I would like to free float the barrel and re scope it right now its wearing a Bushnell 3x9 any info on what to use or tips on how to do this

Take it to the range and see it it's broke before you go fixing it.  Free-floating is a useful tool to have in the bag, but it's not the end-all, be-all of accuracy.

Yep...what he said...

Jay

I have my dad's Weatherby Vanguard in 308 that I put in a Boyd's thumbhole years ago.  It was free floated just the way it was and has been an MOA shooter since the day it was bolted into the stock.  Curious why this one is not free floated.  I was under the impression those stocks should be just as they are, unless this one needs a little final fitting.

gunner81

What is the best material - kit to use

Wambli Ska

I’ve been using two part epoxy putty for years.  It works, not messy, cures fast and a lot less room for screwups.  And if you do screw it up you just Dremel and repeat.

gunner81

I probably have 55 gallons of fiberglass repair stuff left over from restoring my Vette that should work

Wambli Ska

gunner81 said:

I probably have 55 gallons of fiberglass repair stuff left over from restoring my Vette that should work

That should do.  I don’t like working with liquid epoxy because you have to use dams etc.  the two part epoxy putty is basically modeling clay.  Mix, apply to the right places, squeeze and cut out excess, let set and then torque down.

jaywapti

For the past 30+ I have been using Devcon 10110 steel putty  much better than anything else out there, never shrinks or soften with age and can be drilled, milled , tapped etc

JAY

Wambli Ska

jaywapti said:

For the past 30+ I have been using Devcon 10110 steel putty  much better than anything else out there, never shrinks or soften with age and can be drilled, milled , tapped etc

JAY

I’ve been using JB Weld Steel SteelStik. Same concept but It has a set time of 5 minutes which is usually enough for a guy with no patience like me but can be overwhelmingly short for some.  I might give Devon a try on my next project.  Thanks!

Big Al1

Don't forget the release agent!!

Wambli Ska

Big Al1 said:

Don't forget the release agent!!

Yep, and apply heavy!!!!!!!

jaywapti

Enzo, Devcon 10110 working time is 45 minutes, since its a putty it doesnt drip or run, Release agent, quick story, years ago I went into the composite shop at the airlines to get some release agent , the lead tech hands me a can of " Pam " no stick cooking spray, thats what I use, dont forget the modeling clay to fill slots, pin and screw holes etc.

JAY

gunner81

I have big tubes of Harbor Freight 2 part epoxy that I've used on just about everything around my shop and I can't tell a difference between that and J B weld