Proper Barrel-to-stock Clearance on new build................Help!

35RMB

I am having a hard time deciding what barrel contour to use on my .260 Remington build. I am debating whether to use a #5 or #6 contour. I will be using a Bell & Carlson Medalist stock which has a barrel channel measurement of 0.950" at the fore end tip. I am leaning towards the #5 contour in order to minimized the weight. However, this will have a gap of approximate 0.055" at either side of the barrel when placed on the stock. Would that be too much? I have read of people using a 1/16" (0.0625") for this clearance. Ultimately, the barrel will be floated. I don't know, I have my doubts. Since, this is my very first rifle built. What do you more experience gents think/suggest ?

BTW Pac-Nor will be doing the rebarrel job

Thanks.


35RMB

Ernie Bishop

Little more gap just lets a little more air in there to cool things down

Bigslug

BPsniper wrote: »

I want as much clearance as I can reasonably get. Other than aesthetics, no such thing as too much clearance.

Yup. Airflow and easy clean-out are your friends.

airhead

Sako rifles have just enough to slide a dollar bill between the stock and barrel.

Any more is an aid to cooling - as has been well said.

snake284

I've seen bench rifles with 1/4 inch gap all the way down. My old model 70 Win. push feed had what looked like a quarter inch clearance also, but I think it was more like an 8th or 3/16, but it was still a big gap. Like was said with a skinny barrel sporter that can't hurt because it aids a lot in cooling. But as for looks, it is nice to have a small gap. Most custom rifles that are free floated look like the barrel almost touches the stock.But you can usually slide a dollar bill down the length of the barrel. So what do you want, looks or function?

35RMB

Thanks Gents,

I think I'm going to go with the #6 contour. The stock I'm planning on using is made for a factory heavy barrel (.825" @ muzzle) the # 6 is .750" at 26". Besides, I see the benefit of a heavier barrel.

snake284

I think you have a great plan. What action will you be using?

I like the idea of a little smaller contour for weight savings but still being substantial enough to help with accuracy. If you can stand to carry it around it will pay off in the long run I think. Now as for the B&C stock, if it leaves a gap bigger than you like you can always bed the barrel channel with matching Acraglas. For the barrel channel part of the bedding you don't need to add any metal to strengthen it because it will also add more weight. Just use straight Acraglas Gel and wrap the barrel in tape to give you the clearance you want when you freefloat. This will take up some of the gap and even make the forend a bit more rigid. Bedding has been a savior for ameteur gun smiths for a hundred years because it allows you to make up for a lack of expertise in fitting wood to metal. If you blend the black dye with the Acraglas you can make it match the stock almost perfectly and you can take up a bunch of the gap between barrel and stock and make it look like a custom rig.

Edited to Add: Don't forget to use some kind of mold release on the tape. For that I would recommend Pam cooking spray.

35RMB

snake284 wrote: »

I think you have a great plan. What action will you be using?

Thanks for the input Snake, I will be using a Weatherby Vanguard Short Action (Howa 1500 really) for this build. I've decided to go with the #6 contour and a 25" length. And yes, Acraglass (gel) will be use to skim bed the action to the stock. I always bed the entire action and the first 2" of the barrel on all my bolt action rifles.

I'm hoping to send the action to Pac-Nor later in the week. Then, the waiting game begins..........:silly:

snake284

35RMB wrote: »

Thanks for the input Snake, I will be using a Weatherby Vanguard Short Action (Howa 1500 really) for this build. I've decided to go with the #6 contour and a 25" length. And yes, Acraglass (gel) will be use to skim bed the action to the stock. I always bed the entire action and the first 2" of the barrel on all my bolt action rifles.

I'm hoping to send the action to Pac-Nor later in the week. Then, the waiting game begins..........:silly:

Oh man, Great Choice! My .250 Savage is in a Short Howa action. I love that action. I really believe the Remington is a superior design for a bench rifle but for a hunter a Howa is first class. And mine is smooth as silk and looks totally custom. That's one reason I used it for that particular build.
Also, that's how I bed mine. However I do usually build pillars with the epoxy. This ties the pillars into the recoil lug and action bedding. It makes a sturdy bedding platform. And it's relatively easy to do. Just drill your back and front action screw holes out to 3/4 inch in front and 1/2 or 5/8s if you can in the back. Then fill the holes with bedding compound. Then after it cures drill it out on a drill press where the screws don't touch the side. Tie this into the recoil lug and action bedding and you've got a solid platform. That ratty scroungy .270 Winchester of mine is bedded like that and has been for about 25 years.

35RMB

Wambli Ska wrote: »

What these guys said. My .35 Rem was built using a standard Remington countour barrel and a magnum contour HS Precision stock, sub MOA shooter. I like a LOT of clearance between my barrel and stock. My .223 is a Remington Varmint contour barrel in an HS Precision built for a bull barrel, TONS of daylight and a sub .5 MOA shooter.

Thanks for the input Wambli, even using the #6 contour there will be plenty of daylight between the barrel and stock as this particular stock was designed for a heavy varmint barrel (0.825" @ muzzle) the #6 contour will be around 0.750"- 0.760" at the tip