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JunkCollector
Posts: 1,569 Senior Member
Winchester 75 sporter
JunkCollector
Posts: 1,569 Senior Member
They were real good guns in their day. Very accurate I've heard..
This one the previous owners wife damaged the stock. Still seemed functional so home It cane. I guess she was mad at him.
The stock I may try to fix ? AL?
Otherwise it can still be Used IMHO probably for at least for my lifetime.
This one the previous owners wife damaged the stock. Still seemed functional so home It cane. I guess she was mad at him.
The stock I may try to fix ? AL?
Otherwise it can still be Used IMHO probably for at least for my lifetime.
Replies
It’s a °IIIII° thing 😎
I'll see what I can do with the stock on it.
I do want to try it out some first.
Where do you get that surgical tubing ?
To me shooting wise it's probably a rough diamond.
Cost wise it was a lump of coal so I'll give it some TLC and maybe wrap it as a Christmas gift for my nephews boys.
Can't remember where I got mine, maybe Brownells.
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=surgical+tubing&crid=18CZ779FAQ1XJ&sprefix=surgical+tubing%2Caps%2C136&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
It’s a °IIIII° thing 😎
This will be a first.
Figure it will look a little better and be more stabilized/not get worse.
I took the opportunity to clean it up and oil it.
One neat thing I noticed is the bolts are serial numbered to the gun.
They did that for a super tight chamber.
The barrels I found out were fully lapped also.
This one dates to 1947
https://guns.fandom.com/wiki/Winchester_Model_75
I thought I recognized the rifle as a model 69 I refurbished years ago.
Neat salvage.
If you've ever watched C&Rsenal's vids, the gunsmith that does their work (Mark Novak) has done a spinoff series on his gunsmithing channel called Anvil.
He's done a lot of stock repairs on cracks using Acraglas dyed black, on the notion that while wood is brown, grain is black. Seems to work for him. He's also done a number of those repairs with the mentioned multiple wraps of surgical tubing to pull the halves together.
Definitely a keeper. I've got a 69A which is the same action and trigger, and I guess by your description, maybe a less sexy fit job on the barrel. I set it up with a Lyman peep/globe/post setup (HK battle rifle sight picture), and it keeps up with many others you'd probably spend more on. The reputation as "The Poor Man's 52" is well deserved.
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
It is good to know especially if I find something in a different category of what I'd try to accomplish.
I've done a couple sand down and refinish stocks and they came out nice not Big al nice but still happy with the results.
This I'd never be totally happy with my results so back to functional + will have to do.
First, I'd make sure I had a mechanism that's capable of bringing the crack fully back together (i.e., a dry test run with aforementioned surgical tubing mummy wrap).
Follow that with a careful application of Johnson's Paste Wax to the exterior around the crack, being careful not to get any inside it.
FILL the crack with Acraglas. If the split goes all the way to the inside of the channel, make an effort to squeeze it all the way through from one side to the other.
If you CAN'T fill the crack from the inside, I'd probably force it in with a putty knife or other spatula, then wipe off the exterior with whatever solvent the Acraglas instructions recommend (My memory wants to say alcohol) before you clamp. This approach will probably eliminate the need for the paste wax. Just be prepared to do some attentive work in the checkering.
Clamp the beejeezus out of it and fight the desire to wipe off the excess that squeezes out. You pop those blobs off with a putty knife or sharp implement after it hardens. Novak's approach with the surgical tubing is to tie off on one end of the crack, stretch it as much as it will go, and wrap down past the full length of the crack, tying off with an under-wrap at the conclusion. If a padded vise or blocks with C-clamps completely closes the crack in a test fit, go ahead and use 'em, but the odd shape of a lot of stocks makes the elastic band approach maybe more of a sure thing.
Superglue is a legit tool for some jobs like this, but you've got to plan it out and be ready to work fast. Since it's a pretty long split, I'd feel safer with Acraglas' longer work time. Even though it's a .22 in your case, I'd be inclined to treat it as a structural fix and go with the burly method of repair.
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
J.C. has a crack that MAY close completely with clamp pressure between the top (barrel channel) and bottom (trigger guard/mag well). If it does, rock on. If not, the elastic tubing trick allows you to apply squeezing force back onto the curve of the grip - maybe even from behind the grip cap. I can even see leaving the trigger guard in place so the front and rear of it can serve as an anchor to a couple wraps to help pull that curved grip area together in a way clamps might not.
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
It’s a °IIIII° thing 😎
The Crack did extend to the tang area and under the bolt.
There and around the mag release I was most concerned with.
It is solid now.
With some slurry sanding I think I can blend most areas in.
The nasty at the wrist.....I'm open to suggestions?
My unscientific test was seeing if cci stingers would go fully in.
They don't on their own.
Other 22 LR tried do.
It takes a bit of bolt pressure to seat them all the way in.
It did/does so here is yet another update....I think my inner AL broke out.....what Crack?
Might check the ejector if the bolt isn’t locking easily. Could be a cleaning and a bit of break free is all that is needed?
Japhy there is no problem with the bolt.
I'm not easy to follow as I don't can't explain things properly.
A cci stingers brass is a bit longer than other 22lr ones.
It is the same overall length as other 22 lr by using a shorter bullet.
Basically "I think" I was checking the tightness of the chamber and headspacing.
So. . .enable switch "ON"
Get it to the range with some decent ammo, make sure it's got no mechanical defects, get the trigger set where you want it and give some SERIOUS pondering on whether or not it wants a peep in those two rear holes. Given the stock's a repair, probably no harm in making the cut needed for the task. . .and you can clearly refinish the borders once you do.
I got a vintage Lyman rear and modern Lyman 17A front for my 69A back when it wasn't too pricey (19 years. . .my how time flies), but the good folks at Williams are making a couple different height peeps. . .and the base to attach it to your 75: https://shop.williamsgunsight.com/ecommerce/p/fp--target-less-attaching-base-001222 (scroll down for the base options). And of course 17A's are still out there in different heights.
I screwed in one of the Merit adjustable iris apertures: http://meritcorporation.com/products.html
All combined, they make for a pretty economical option to the "real" match sights, and the resulting "HK" sight picture with longer radius really made the rifle sing.
If Brownells still has the repro 52 mags, they work well.
After tinkering with the rifle and comparing it to my other mid-20th Century open-sighted plinkers, it was pretty clear that this was a slightly higher level of goodies, and it batted it's L'oreal "Because I'm worth it" eyes at me.
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
I function tested it yesterday..
First shot I aimed center of neck/throat. It hit just a bit high.
From there I just aimed at the top bullet hole and climbed the ladder with it.
It was fun. I saw its potential and decided then that the stock warranted more work.
I do know what those 2 little tapped holes are for....lol
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee