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Let’s talk Cans

centermass556centermass556 Posts: 3,618 Senior Member
Someone talk to me like I’m stupid, on the process required for a suppressor. 

Please. 
"To have really lived, you must have almost died. To those who have fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will never know."

Replies

  • ZeeZee Posts: 28,405 Senior Member
    edited February 21 #2
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • Elk creekElk creek Posts: 7,929 Senior Member
    Zee said:
    🤣
    Aim higher, or get a bigger gun.
  • centermass556centermass556 Posts: 3,618 Senior Member
    Is the site idiot proof? Like could a Marine get through it? 

    Any brands you recommend I stay away from. 
    "To have really lived, you must have almost died. To those who have fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will never know."
  • ZeeZee Posts: 28,405 Senior Member
    The site is pretty idiot proof. They pretty much walk you through the whole process. 
    There are a lot of new makers out there. Many at reduced prices. Gotta figure out what your priorities are. 
    Price
    Weight
    Length
    Sound Reduction
    Durability
    Multi-Cal Adaptation 
    Warranty
    Volume

    I can promise you that suppressors is one place that price usually dictates ability in one way/shape/form. 

    Buy cheap/get cheap. Know your expectations and desire. Buy accordingly. 

    I have no delusions of grandeur. 
    My current favorites: Surefire/SilencerCo/ThunderBeast

    Ones I’ve used and not been impressed with: GemTec/AAC/Jet

    There are so many more out there than I have experience. 
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • ZeeZee Posts: 28,405 Senior Member
    edited February 22 #6
    One thing I will add!!!
    Buy a suppressor for the largest caliber you foresee yourself using for the platform. 
    Rimfire?
    Pistol?
    Rifle?

    For example:
    Rifle……..if the largest rifle you see suppressing is a .30cal………get a .30 cal can. 
    You can put a .30cal can on anything smaller in diameter like a 7mm/6.5/.25/6mm/.224 etc!!!!
    if you buy a .224 specific can………it ain’t going bigger. 
    I’ve run a .338 cal can on a .30cal and I regularly run a .30cal can all the way down to .224cal!!!
    I’ve run a 6.8c can on down to .224cal as well. 
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • ZeeZee Posts: 28,405 Senior Member
    Forgot, I’ve used Knights/OpsInc as well and they aren’t bad. 
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • ZeeZee Posts: 28,405 Senior Member
    Remember, as you shop, fancy machining and cuts on the exterior of the can are window dressing. Kinda like fake boobs. Looks cool. Doesn’t help underlying performance. 
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • GrapeApeGrapeApe Posts: 585 Senior Member
    edited February 22 #9
    I've been impressed with my YHM Resonator R2 30 cal.

    Something else to consider, are you going to run it on one platform only? (direct thread?) or are you going to want to run it on multiple firearms? (Direct thread will still work, but QD is easier)
    From what I've seen, for similar build quality, a DT is usually a little cheaper, especially when you take the $75-100 per muzzle device into consideration.

    One other suggestion, if you're only interested in one, SilencerShop's "Single Shot Trust" is a pretty good deal at $25. HOWEVER, if you think you might want more, getting a "full" NFA trust, for ~$100 so you can list all your "toys" on 1 trust, is easier IMO.
    "For longer range, use a bigger case. For bigger game, use a bigger bullet." - Dan Johnson
  • GrapeApeGrapeApe Posts: 585 Senior Member
    Another thing to keep in mind is balancing weight/price/durability.

    Internals:
    Steel/iconel = medium price point, heavy, good durability

    Aluminum = cheaper, lighter (compared to steel), not as durable

    Titanium = EXPENSIVE, lighter (compared to steel), good durability

    Think about the amount of unburned/burning powder ejected from the muzzle with each round and the "sandblasting" effect it's going to have on the first baffle. I've also seen form 1 (home built) silencers where the builder used steel for the first baffle or two, for durability, then used aluminum for the rest, for the weight reduction. I'm not sure if any manufacturers do anything similar, or not
    "For longer range, use a bigger case. For bigger game, use a bigger bullet." - Dan Johnson
  • ZeeZee Posts: 28,405 Senior Member
    About direct thread: If you are plug and play on one rifle, they are great. If you plan to on-off and swap between rifles………I do not recommend that method. The threads can wear out with time, get nicked, cross thread, gaul, etc.  
    Screw up the threads and the suppressor could seize up or not go on. Screw up the ruffle threads and you’ll have to rethread.
    Hell, I’ve even seen this happen to the outside threads on SilencerCo QD brakes. 
    If you do go direct thread……anti-seize is you friend and some TLC. 
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • ZeeZee Posts: 28,405 Senior Member
    I’ve never had a problem with Surefire and their attachment………in like 20 years of use. 
    Disclaimer: You have to remove the suppressor after a heavy range session before the carbon turned to “cement” between the brake and can. Which is no problem for me. I remove my suppressor after any use anyway. 
    Clean the carbon off the brake when you clean the rifle. Easy peesy. Scrape it off with an old knife. Failure to do so will cause carbon to build up and hinder the can from seating. It’s just normal maintenance. I’ve had fellow associates fail to do these things and we would have issues. But, it’s easily preventable with proper maintenance. 

    I’ve had multiple issues with other attachment points (SilencerCo). 
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • centermass556centermass556 Posts: 3,618 Senior Member
    Zee said:
    I’ve never had a problem with Surefire and their attachment………in like 20 years of use. 
    Disclaimer: You have to remove the suppressor after a heavy range session before the carbon turned to “cement” between the brake and can. Which is no problem for me. I remove my suppressor after any use anyway. 
    Clean the carbon off the brake when you clean the rifle. Easy peesy. Scrape it off with an old knife. Failure to do so will cause carbon to build up and hinder the can from seating. It’s just normal maintenance. I’ve had fellow associates fail to do these things and we would have issues. But, it’s easily preventable with proper maintenance. 

    I’ve had multiple issues with other attachment points (SilencerCo). 
    Surefire with the quick connect is what I was issued, an ran on my M4. 
    But damn they want pretty penny for their products 
    "To have really lived, you must have almost died. To those who have fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will never know."
  • ZeeZee Posts: 28,405 Senior Member
    Buy once. Cry once. 
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • shotgunshooter3shotgunshooter3 Posts: 6,112 Senior Member
    Zee said:
    I’ve never had a problem with Surefire and their attachment………in like 20 years of use. 
    Disclaimer: You have to remove the suppressor after a heavy range session before the carbon turned to “cement” between the brake and can. Which is no problem for me. I remove my suppressor after any use anyway. 
    Clean the carbon off the brake when you clean the rifle. Easy peesy. Scrape it off with an old knife. Failure to do so will cause carbon to build up and hinder the can from seating. It’s just normal maintenance. I’ve had fellow associates fail to do these things and we would have issues. But, it’s easily preventable with proper maintenance. 

    I’ve had multiple issues with other attachment points (SilencerCo). 
    Surefire with the quick connect is what I was issued, an ran on my M4. 
    But damn they want pretty penny for their products 
    Surefire does a military discount if you go through them directly. 25% comes to mind, but I don't remember.

    I have a SilencerCo Omega 300 and SpecWar 556K. Both pretty decent for what they are meant for, but I am not impressed with the ASR mounting system. If I was starting new I would probably do Surefire, or look at flow through technology such as Huxworks. 

    Another note, and purely my own opinion, modular suppressors are NOT worth it for what you lose in durability. The Omega 300 is a modular can (you can swap out mounting systems and end caps) and every session something works its way loose. Big reason I bought the SpecWar as well, it's a sealed solid suppressor. Nothing to work loose.
    - I am a rifleman with a poorly chosen screen name. -
    "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast, and speed is the economy of motion" - Scott Jedlinski
  • centermass556centermass556 Posts: 3,618 Senior Member
    Zee said:
    One thing I will add!!!
    Buy a suppressor for the largest caliber you foresee yourself using for the platform. 
    Rimfire?
    Pistol?
    Rifle?

    For example:
    Rifle……..if the largest rifle you see suppressing is a .30cal………get a .30 cal can. 
    You can put a .30cal can on anything smaller in diameter like a 7mm/6.5/.25/6mm/.224 etc!!!!
    if you buy a .224 specific can………it ain’t going bigger. 
    I’ve run a .338 cal can on a .30cal and I regularly run a .30cal can all the way down to .224cal!!!
    I’ve run a 6.8c can on down to .224cal as well. 

    Zee said:
    One thing I will add!!!
    Buy a suppressor for the largest caliber you foresee yourself using for the platform. 
    Rimfire?
    Pistol?
    Rifle?

    For example:
    Rifle……..if the largest rifle you see suppressing is a .30cal………get a .30 cal can. 
    You can put a .30cal can on anything smaller in diameter like a 7mm/6.5/.25/6mm/.224 etc!!!!
    if you buy a .224 specific can………it ain’t going bigger. 
    I’ve run a .338 cal can on a .30cal and I regularly run a .30cal can all the way down to .224cal!!!
    I’ve run a 6.8c can on down to .224cal as well. 
    Okay, in the long run, I would like to have one for my .308 and my 5.56.

    But, what’s the impact of running a .30 cal silencer on a 5.56. I know there has to be some loss in effectiveness - is it a negligible thing? 

    I ask cause I know others bucket things like I do - 
    1. Did it accomplish the mission? yes
    2. Is there a better way? yes
    3. Is it worth the squeeze for the better way - If answer is no, refer to question 1.
    "To have really lived, you must have almost died. To those who have fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will never know."
  • ZeeZee Posts: 28,405 Senior Member
    I do it absolutely all the time!!  I personally own a .30cal suppressor and run it on my .223 Remingtons anytime I use them for deer hunting, varmint hunting, or pig killing. 
    You would likely need a decibel reader to really know the difference. Yes, I’m sure there is a loss of efficiency. Can I tell enough to care?  Not for the price of another suppressor, I can’t. 

    Remember, you are not an assassin shooting sub loads like in a movie. You are trying to reduce the muzzle blast to a safe level for general use. 
    If high volume is your goal…….I’d wear hearing protection anyway. Even with a caliber specific suppressor. 
    Hell, I’ve been doing that for 4 weeks and everyone is running a caliber specific can. And yet we are all wearing hearing protection. Thousands of rounds a day…….can still screw you up. 


    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • bullsi1911bullsi1911 Posts: 12,428 Senior Member
    I use a .308 can for 223, 6.5, 243, 7.62x39 and 300BLK. 

    The loss of efficiency by having a ‘too large’ bore when running 5.56/223 is offset by having the much larger internal volume of the 308 capable can. 

    I do the same with .45 pistol can for everything down to 22LR 
    To make something simple is a thousand times more difficult than to make something complex.
    -Mikhail Kalashnikov
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