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centermass556
Posts: 3,618 Senior Member
Let’s talk Cans

Someone talk to me like I’m stupid, on the process required for a suppressor.
Please.
"To have really lived, you must have almost died. To those who have fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will never know."
Replies
https://www.silencershop.com/
Weight
Length
Sound Reduction
Durability
Multi-Cal Adaptation
Warranty
Volume
I can promise you that suppressors is one place that price usually dictates ability in one way/shape/form.
Ones I’ve used and not been impressed with: GemTec/AAC/Jet
There are so many more out there than I have experience.
Buy a suppressor for the largest caliber you foresee yourself using for the platform.
Rimfire?
Rifle?
For example:
Rifle……..if the largest rifle you see suppressing is a .30cal………get a .30 cal can.
if you buy a .224 specific can………it ain’t going bigger.
I’ve run a 6.8c can on down to .224cal as well.
Something else to consider, are you going to run it on one platform only? (direct thread?) or are you going to want to run it on multiple firearms? (Direct thread will still work, but QD is easier)
From what I've seen, for similar build quality, a DT is usually a little cheaper, especially when you take the $75-100 per muzzle device into consideration.
One other suggestion, if you're only interested in one, SilencerShop's "Single Shot Trust" is a pretty good deal at $25. HOWEVER, if you think you might want more, getting a "full" NFA trust, for ~$100 so you can list all your "toys" on 1 trust, is easier IMO.
Internals:
Steel/iconel = medium price point, heavy, good durability
Aluminum = cheaper, lighter (compared to steel), not as durable
Titanium = EXPENSIVE, lighter (compared to steel), good durability
Think about the amount of unburned/burning powder ejected from the muzzle with each round and the "sandblasting" effect it's going to have on the first baffle. I've also seen form 1 (home built) silencers where the builder used steel for the first baffle or two, for durability, then used aluminum for the rest, for the weight reduction. I'm not sure if any manufacturers do anything similar, or not
Screw up the threads and the suppressor could seize up or not go on. Screw up the ruffle threads and you’ll have to rethread.
Hell, I’ve even seen this happen to the outside threads on SilencerCo QD brakes.
I have a SilencerCo Omega 300 and SpecWar 556K. Both pretty decent for what they are meant for, but I am not impressed with the ASR mounting system. If I was starting new I would probably do Surefire, or look at flow through technology such as Huxworks.
Another note, and purely my own opinion, modular suppressors are NOT worth it for what you lose in durability. The Omega 300 is a modular can (you can swap out mounting systems and end caps) and every session something works its way loose. Big reason I bought the SpecWar as well, it's a sealed solid suppressor. Nothing to work loose.
"Slow is smooth, smooth is fast, and speed is the economy of motion" - Scott Jedlinski
But, what’s the impact of running a .30 cal silencer on a 5.56. I know there has to be some loss in effectiveness - is it a negligible thing?
1. Did it accomplish the mission? yes
2. Is there a better way? yes
3. Is it worth the squeeze for the better way - If answer is no, refer to question 1.
-Mikhail Kalashnikov