1911 grip screw bushing issue

X104RFAST

Today I was removing the grips on my 1911 and the bushing came out with the screw. I
made an attempt to separate them but for fear of damaging the grip and the threads on the bushing I gave up. I'm considering reinstalling the grip using loctite on the bushing 
hoping to remove the screw after the loctite sets up. 
I'm sure others have had this problem, If so, how did you resolve it. Actually, I'm considering loctiting all four bushings so this doesn't happen again.
What do you suggest? If loctite is OK. I have both red and blue. which would you use?

 

gunner81

Check on the other end of the bushing I have had some that were stotted for a flathead screwdriver

JunkCollector

I'd separate them beforehand.
The screw may be cross threaded into the bushing.

If it is/was I'd get a new bushing

Big Al1

Where ya been man!!??

Jeeper44mag

Replace it.  Do NOT use red locktite in anything you might want to remove at a later date.  Blue will work just fine.

Luis

Bigslug

Blue loctite and your plan is sound - done it that way a number of times.  Once you arrive at the dry loctite state, a properly fitted screwdriver and a sharp twist will usually separate the screw from the bushing.  Truth be told, I've pulled it off without loctite just by snugging the whole works and proceeding the same way.  Sometimes you get lucky.

At that point you can make the decision on replacing bushings.  Just keep in mind that the FRAME is the irreplaceable thing here and THOSE are the threads you don't want to ****.  The consequence of that is re-threading for oversize bushings.

Japhy

I like Permatex blue thread locker gel better than Locktite. It’s much easier to get the right amount in the right place

Wambli Ska

X104RFAST said:

Today I was removing the grips on my 1911 and the bushing came out with the screw. I
made an attempt to separate them but for fear of damaging the grip and the threads on the bushing I gave up. I'm considering reinstalling the grip using loctite on the bushing 
hoping to remove the screw after the loctite sets up. 
I'm sure others have had this problem, If so, how did you resolve it. Actually, I'm considering loctiting all four bushings so this doesn't happen again.
What do you suggest? If loctite is OK. I have both red and blue. which would you use?

 

Like JunkCollector said it’s important to make sure the threads on the grip screw are not cross threaded into the bushing.   The blue loctite plan is not a bad idea if you need to keep the bushings and screws.  I’ve done it a few times that way.  You have to be REALLY SURE that you don’t get loctite into the hole the grip screw screws into because if you do you aggravate the issue.  If it works I’d loctite ALL the bushings using blue loctite into the frame.  

But to be truthful when I hit issues like that, unless it’s a collectible I want to keep 100% original, I usually just order new bushings and better or decorative screws and call it good.  It’s a less than $30 solution.

Bigslug

JunkCollector said:

I'd separate them beforehand.
The screw may be cross threaded into the bushing.

If it is/was I'd get a new bushing

The potential issue at hand is saving the grip panel as well.  A couple ways to travel down that bunny hole:

1.  Proceed as we've discussed with the blue loctite on the bushing/frame juncture.  THOSE threads we know to be good, but if the inside threads for the grip screw are toast (possible, but not hugely likely), the blue loctite is easy to work through with some light help from a heat gun (if heat is needed at all).  As a harder fix, you can break a stuck bushing loose with a combination of heat, Kroil, and an easy-out.  Just make sure the easy-out is spun with a hand tool, NOT power!  Again, the goal is not to trash the threads on the frame.

2.  You can try pinching the bushing in a vise with the grip panel resting on top.  Not a lot of potential for grip with this approach though, and since it munches the threads on the bushing, you lose the ability to try option 1.

A little pro-tip I've learned:  1911 grip screws work loose because there's no compression on the grip material.  This could be because the original wood is old and flattened out, or if you have G10 fiberglass grips, there's zero compressibility to begin with.  A tiny rubber O-ring on the grip screw gives you that compression and acts as a lock washer.  You don't need to crank down as tight on the screws to get them to hold, and you can be a little generous with grease or oil on the threads to keep them from rusting in place.

JKP

Bigslug said:

JunkCollector said:

I'd separate them beforehand.
The screw may be cross threaded into the bushing.

If it is/was I'd get a new bushing

The potential issue at hand is saving the grip panel as well.  A couple ways to travel down that bunny hole:

1.  Proceed as we've discussed with the blue loctite on the bushing/frame juncture.  THOSE threads we know to be good, but if the inside threads for the grip screw are toast (possible, but not hugely likely), the blue loctite is easy to work through with some light help from a heat gun (if heat is needed at all).  As a harder fix, you can break a stuck bushing loose with a combination of heat, Kroil, and an easy-out.  Just make sure the easy-out is spun with a hand tool, NOT power!  Again, the goal is not to trash the threads on the frame.

2.  You can try pinching the bushing in a vise with the grip panel resting on top.  Not a lot of potential for grip with this approach though, and since it munches the threads on the bushing, you lose the ability to try option 1.

A little pro-tip I've learned:  1911 grip screws work loose because there's no compression on the grip material.  This could be because the original wood is old and flattened out, or if you have G10 fiberglass grips, there's zero compressibility to begin with.  A tiny rubber O-ring on the grip screw gives you that compression and acts as a lock washer.  You don't need to crank down as tight on the screws to get them to hold, and you can be a little generous with grease or oil on the threads to keep them from rusting in place.

Source / size of the O-ring? I now feel a need for a pile of them!

Wambli Ska

JKP said:

Bigslug said:

JunkCollector said:

I'd separate them beforehand.
The screw may be cross threaded into the bushing.

If it is/was I'd get a new bushing

The potential issue at hand is saving the grip panel as well.  A couple ways to travel down that bunny hole:

1.  Proceed as we've discussed with the blue loctite on the bushing/frame juncture.  THOSE threads we know to be good, but if the inside threads for the grip screw are toast (possible, but not hugely likely), the blue loctite is easy to work through with some light help from a heat gun (if heat is needed at all).  As a harder fix, you can break a stuck bushing loose with a combination of heat, Kroil, and an easy-out.  Just make sure the easy-out is spun with a hand tool, NOT power!  Again, the goal is not to trash the threads on the frame.

2.  You can try pinching the bushing in a vise with the grip panel resting on top.  Not a lot of potential for grip with this approach though, and since it munches the threads on the bushing, you lose the ability to try option 1.

A little pro-tip I've learned:  1911 grip screws work loose because there's no compression on the grip material.  This could be because the original wood is old and flattened out, or if you have G10 fiberglass grips, there's zero compressibility to begin with.  A tiny rubber O-ring on the grip screw gives you that compression and acts as a lock washer.  You don't need to crank down as tight on the screws to get them to hold, and you can be a little generous with grease or oil on the threads to keep them from rusting in place.

Source / size of the O-ring? I now feel a need for a pile of them!

They sell them at Home Depot and Lowe’s (Home Depot plumbing section SAE 1/4 x 1/8 x 1/16 ) they are cheaper there at about $3 for 10 but Amazon also has then at like 3 times the price of HD.  All my 1911s have them nowadays.

24 ea 1911 Grip Screw O-Rings for Colt and Clones | Prevent Screws from Loosening | Will Not Make Screws Stand Proud of Grips | NBR Rubber O-Rings https://a.co/d/bkr8Sa4

Bigslug

JKP said:

Bigslug said:

JunkCollector said:

I'd separate them beforehand.
The screw may be cross threaded into the bushing.

If it is/was I'd get a new bushing

The potential issue at hand is saving the grip panel as well.  A couple ways to travel down that bunny hole:

1.  Proceed as we've discussed with the blue loctite on the bushing/frame juncture.  THOSE threads we know to be good, but if the inside threads for the grip screw are toast (possible, but not hugely likely), the blue loctite is easy to work through with some light help from a heat gun (if heat is needed at all).  As a harder fix, you can break a stuck bushing loose with a combination of heat, Kroil, and an easy-out.  Just make sure the easy-out is spun with a hand tool, NOT power!  Again, the goal is not to trash the threads on the frame.

2.  You can try pinching the bushing in a vise with the grip panel resting on top.  Not a lot of potential for grip with this approach though, and since it munches the threads on the bushing, you lose the ability to try option 1.

A little pro-tip I've learned:  1911 grip screws work loose because there's no compression on the grip material.  This could be because the original wood is old and flattened out, or if you have G10 fiberglass grips, there's zero compressibility to begin with.  A tiny rubber O-ring on the grip screw gives you that compression and acts as a lock washer.  You don't need to crank down as tight on the screws to get them to hold, and you can be a little generous with grease or oil on the threads to keep them from rusting in place.

Source / size of the O-ring? I now feel a need for a pile of them!

A number 60 as I recall.  A little thicker than ideal perhaps, but gets it done.