I just screwed up. Need some help.

Deere

While cleaning a Remington Speedmaster 552, I allowed the "shotgun and choke tube cleaner" i was using to clean the trigger group to get on the receiver housing. Turns out that was a bad move. The finish on a 552 receiver doesn't fare well with harsh cleaners and it is now tiger striped. Does anyone have a suggestion on a way to reblue an alloy gun part? Any advice would be appreciated.

Teach

You're out of luck trying to restore the original finish, I think. It's probably some sort of paint if the cleaner removed it. Alloy parts are usually anodized to actually color the metal, and that process isn't affected by solvents. DuraCoat makes several gun finish products, both air-dried and baked on. I'm partial to a product sold by Midway USA called "Cerama-Coat" that applies like rattle can paint and gets baked on to form a durable, weatherproof ceramic finish. The gun needs to be detail-stripped to a bare receiver and sanded or beadblasted before using that product, and it needs to be masked off to prevent coating buildup on places like slide rails and/or pin holes, etc. The coating can make precision-fit parts too tight to reassemble otherwise.
Jerry

SirGeorgeKillian

Depending on how bad it is striped, you might be better off just using a rattle can alternative like duracote or aluma hyde. It can be challenging for the diy'er to match an already blued piece....

gunrunner428

Steel gets blued. Aluminum gets anodized (clear for a silver finish, or black, or any of a number of other purty colors if that floats your boat - Charter Arms does this with its "Pink Lady", "Goldfinger", and other alternate-color revolvers for instance). Whole other process, and to my knowledge impossible (at least extremely difficult) to do at home.

The spray-coatings would be your best bet.

ilove22s

either have it stripped and have your fav color/coat applied or just leave it as-is. its not going to affect function.

BigDanS

What about Aluma black? If it is aluminum... $9.00



D

Teach

If the label says "Birchwood Casey" and "blue" or "black" run, do not walk away! That stuff isn't worth the effort to open the bottle. I can't understand how their wood stock finish can be so good, and their metal finish products can suck so bad!
Jerry

Whitewookie

Teach wrote: »

If the label says "Birchwood Casey" and "blue" or "black" run, do not walk away! That stuff isn't worth the effort to open the bottle. I can't understand how their wood stock finish can be so good, and their metal finish products can suck so bad!
Jerry

Teach, are you sure you didn't just get a bad batch or something? I've used BC alot and never had a problem with it. I probably have a bottle out there somewhere right now.

Now, the best cold blue I ever used was some stuff calledd 44-40 cold blue, but I haven't seen any of that for years.

Anyway, since this is aluminum try the aluma black...cheaper than Dura Coat. If it doesn't work Dura coat can be applied over just about anything according to their web site.

Teach

I've tried using B-C blue and black products repeatedly over 20-something years. They suck! I use Brownell's Oxpho-Blue paste for small parts, and the Dichropan IM boiling water system for all-over bluing now. Guns I blued back in the late 1990's with Dichropan are still holding their color, and they get used regularly- - - -they're not safe queens. It would be hard to run fast enough to give me a truckload of B-C metal prep products!
Jerry

sarg1c

Teach wrote: »

If the label says "Birchwood Casey" and "blue" or "black" run, do not walk away! That stuff isn't worth the effort to open the bottle. I can't understand how their wood stock finish can be so good, and their metal finish products can suck so bad!
Jerry

I have used the Aluma Black on shotgun triggerguards with good results...

Billy Gun

I tried the BC blue once. It looked good. For a couple of days. The spot I touched up wore right off after a few times in and out of the holster during hunting season. Just my experiance.

Deere

Thanks for the advice. I'm a touch torn up about this. The gun belongs to my father in law and he asked me to figure out why it was acting up. A really good cleaning did the trick. I "fixed" it. It does run like a sewing machine now, only problem is it looks like a bad "custom" job on the receiver. I haven't broken the news to him yet. I honestly think he will say _ _ _ _ happens, don't worry about it. Because thats the kind of guy he is. But even if he is ok with it, I am pissed at myself for being so stupid. I know better. I guess the only answer is to replace it. If anyone knows of a good deal on a 552 Speedmaster I am in the market.

Six-Gun

Teach wrote: »

If the label says "Birchwood Casey" and "blue" or "black" run, do not walk away! That stuff isn't worth the effort to open the bottle. I can't understand how their wood stock finish can be so good, and their metal finish products can suck so bad!
Jerry

I think that Aluminum Black might be an exception. I used it to touch up a scratch on my AR-15 lower receiver that was pretty nasty at the time, and truth be told, I can't tell you where is is anymore. It's held up for quite a few years now.

Teach

My experience with aluminum black has not been that good. It turns the diecast aluminum trigger guard on a Ruger M77 a dirty-looking gray, even when the metal is prepared exactly the way the directions on the bottle require. I'm going to have to strip it and apply some Cerama-coat which will give it a matte finish, but at least the trigger guard won't be silvery-colored in spots.
Jerry

snake284

Teach wrote: »

If the label says "Birchwood Casey" and "blue" or "black" run, do not walk away! That stuff isn't worth the effort to open the bottle. I can't understand how their wood stock finish can be so good, and their metal finish products can suck so bad!
Jerry

I don't know either Teach, but I'm here to tell you that's right on. That cold stuff they sell is worthless for most applications. OTOH True Oil is a fine product, even though I don't use it. I always had trouble putting it on. But I've seen it done right and it is truly a professional product.

HAWKEN

If the Aluminum black dosen't work, try 44-40 liquid cold blue. I have had excellent luck with it, rebluing holster wear on revolvers........Robin

snake284

Though I have not tried it personally, any of those finishes like Dura Coat or Ceramicoat should be a great choice. My son in law has a Glock he carries off duty painted with DuraCoat in Desert Tan and it is beautiful. And the holster doesn't affect it.