Note: It is hot down here. I've been working outside all day. I should've used clean, er, face coverings. The nose hole was the only thing keeping me alive.
Also, I got this thing, dunno what the hell it is. I'm guessing some special sort of small fork, to pick up dainty little cocktail shrimps that they serve for snobby bow hunters, or something.
Congrats on the purchase! PSE makes a tough, well-built bow. Very nice mechanical release, btw.
I miss practicing with my bow, I just don't have the space in my new backyard to shoot it and haven't made the time to get to an indoor range. By the way, rumor has it that you achieve greater accuracy by practing in the nude.
Accuracy: because white space between bullet holes drives me insane.
Now come the questions. ... I haven't taken this thing home yet, I'm scared to death. We're supposed to be remodeling the master bath and master bedroom. SHE is going to go into beasty-rage mode when she sees this thing. I need you guys to back me up on this: One of you loaned it to me, capiche? I don't care who, but that's what happened.
So, I'm thinking the peep sight may be a little high. Using that pic that jbp-ohio posted of that swarthy young man with the nice underarm hair, my draw hand seems to be a little far back. maybe not. When I can find the stones to take this home, I'll have the wife take some pics of me at full draw, fully nude. I'm trying to anchor the corner of my mouth and touch my nose to the string, but the hand feels too far back. Maybe it's not.
Secondly, is there a certain way you nock the arrow? I mean, does the dark part of the whisker biscuit mean to line the off colored vane up with it? My mouth also seems to be touching the vane pretty well, and I don't wanna rip my lips off if I'm doing it wrong.
Thirdly, to those who may genuinely be questioning, I don't intend on taking any radical shots and I will practice my butt off. Good news, my bow shop told me yesterday when I bought the bow that he was finishing his 3d range NEXT weekend. 10 bucks and I can shoot all day. Elevated platforms, differing yardage. I will be taking advantage of that as well as practicing in the back yard.
My hunting ethics are fine. If I'm not ready, I won't shoot.
Oh, who am I kidding. If that sucker steps out at less than 75 yards, I'm flinging carbon and steel, baby.
Congrats on the purchase! PSE makes a tough, well-built bow. Very nice mechanical release, btw.
It's funny, when he told me it was set up factory at 70 lbs, I got scared. "Oh no, this dude is fixing to see me try to pull this sucker back, and with my chest cage bearing a remarkable resemblance to that of a small squirrel, I'm gonna grunt and sweat and not get the sucker at full draw."
Lo and behold, not only could I draw it fine, but I didn't have to do that "point at the sky and draw a rainbow" sweeping motion to exert the effort to draw it. I surprised myself that it drew straight back, with my left hand staying anchored straight in front of me.
Now, my pa-in-law has a 72? 75? lb bow that's about 25 years old, and I can't draw that thing back without looking like I'm trying to hump it. I guess these new type cams really do take a lot of the effort out of it.
Bow shop dude recommended a buckle rather than velcro. Said velcro made a "riiippp" sound on him ONCE, and it was enough to cause him to miss a chance at a deer. That may have been complete bullcrap, but I was sold.
Bow shop dude recommended a buckle rather than velcro. Said velcro made a "riiippp" sound on him ONCE, and it was enough to cause him to miss a chance at a deer. That may have been complete bullcrap, but I was sold.
I completely agree with him. Had a Velcro release. Got rid of it in favor of a bucle for that very reason. Didn't lose a deer to it, but after practicing with it a handful of times, it didn't take much thinking to realize the possibility.
Accuracy: because white space between bullet holes drives me insane.
Nice! That looks like a great setup.
It's common to pull your hand back to the corner of your jaw, or even your ear. The release adds length. You can probably shorten the release, if you want. Just make sure you pick a point that works, and stick with it. I lay my thumb along my jaw, with the web of my hand right at the corner of my jaw.
As for the arrows. You can turn the knocks any way you want. You want the off colored (cock) feather UP (12:00) for a whisker biskit. The black fibers are really, really hard, and you don't want any vanes running through them. Watch for the right hand vane hitting the string, you might need to twist knock to so that the cock feather is about 1:00 or so to clear the string.
Nice! That looks like a great setup.
It's common to pull your hand back to the corner of your jaw, or even your ear. The release adds length. You can probably shorten the release, if you want. Just make sure you pick a point that works, and stick with it. I lay my thumb along my jaw, with the web of my hand right at the corner of my jaw.
.
Thanks. The release is in its shortest position, but what I did was buckle the wrist strap a couple notches tighter, that shortened the pull some. Still not sure about the peep but I'll take some pics later.
Why are the black whiskers different colored and why are they so much stiffer?
By the way, rumor has it that you achieve greater accuracy by practing in the nude.
Umm. . .negative on the naked archery. We have arm-guards for a reason. The gals who shoot bows have optional chest guards for a reason. There are certain things you DO NOT want to get caught up in wheels and pulleys that can move an arrow out at over 300FPS. Just sayin'. . .
Umm. . .negative on the naked archery. We have arm-guards for a reason. The gals who shoot bows have optional chest guards for a reason. There are certain things you DO NOT want to get caught up in wheels and pulleys that can move an arrow out at over 300FPS. Just sayin'. . .
Are you suggestign that one might get their...hootus...caught up in the werks?
Accuracy: because white space between bullet holes drives me insane.
Are you suggestign that one might get their...hootus...caught up in the werks?
One would have to be rather....well endowed and shooting at a rather steep incline to get oneself caught in the works. Are you professing that this individual is such?
"To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
Glad to hear that you have finally seen the light regarding the 270's anaemic capabilities as a deer slayer and have gone for something far more powerful.
If you want a hand regarding how you aquired the bow, I will send you some wrapping paper with some postmarked NZ stamps on, along with a couple of 'local' brand ( Made in NZ) pairs of boxer shorts to add credibility to your story. I just need to know if you want 'New in the packet' or 'Used With Stains' and the size............
Nice bow by the way. :up:
Still enjoying the trip of a lifetime and making the best of what I have.....
One would have to be rather....well endowed and shooting at a rather steep incline to get oneself caught in the works. Are you professing that this individual is such?
Seeing as though his nose barely fits through the hole in those undies, I'd venture to guess not.
Accuracy: because white space between bullet holes drives me insane.
As to the peep sight.... Hold bow in left hand. Draw bow with right hand, with EYES CLOSED. Once its drawn, you open your eyes and if you can see through the peep, its right. If not, its not.
Get the peep set where it needs to be, (bow shop should have done this) and then adjust the front sights to change POI.
^^^This.
You have to pick your draw point, though. It has to be the same, exact, spot, every time. Then, the peep should be right in front of your eye. The peep should just outline the outer edge of your sight ring.
Like Chris said, your bow shop should have done this, and explained it. They should have set the bow up for YOU, and you only. If they didn't, you might want to find another shop. A good bow shop is invaluable.
The bow shop did set it up for me. He measured my draw, had me draw and see if the peep was good, cut my arrows, etc. He did fine. I just didn't know enough at the time to know any better. He did serve the peep as well.
After drawing it quite a bit, I'm thinking the peep is ok. Tightening the wrist strap helped immensely with shortening the draw. Fixin' to try the eyes closed bit and see what that does.
You want the string touching the tip of your nose, when you draw. Being a good shot with a bow is pretty much a matter of lining all your draw points up, exactly the same, every time. Pull the trigger just like a rifle. You don't want to squeeze the grip, but rather, when you draw the bow, open up your grip hand, so that the bow is pulled against the web of your hand. Follow through. When you fire, the bow should basically fall out of your hands. You should get a wrist strap. It's much easier mentally to open up your grip with a wrist strap.
Squeezing the grip torques the bow, and can make shots erratic.
Replies
Also, I got this thing, dunno what the hell it is. I'm guessing some special sort of small fork, to pick up dainty little cocktail shrimps that they serve for snobby bow hunters, or something.
I miss practicing with my bow, I just don't have the space in my new backyard to shoot it and haven't made the time to get to an indoor range. By the way, rumor has it that you achieve greater accuracy by practing in the nude.
So, I'm thinking the peep sight may be a little high. Using that pic that jbp-ohio posted of that swarthy young man with the nice underarm hair, my draw hand seems to be a little far back. maybe not. When I can find the stones to take this home, I'll have the wife take some pics of me at full draw, fully nude. I'm trying to anchor the corner of my mouth and touch my nose to the string, but the hand feels too far back. Maybe it's not.
Secondly, is there a certain way you nock the arrow? I mean, does the dark part of the whisker biscuit mean to line the off colored vane up with it? My mouth also seems to be touching the vane pretty well, and I don't wanna rip my lips off if I'm doing it wrong.
Thirdly, to those who may genuinely be questioning, I don't intend on taking any radical shots and I will practice my butt off. Good news, my bow shop told me yesterday when I bought the bow that he was finishing his 3d range NEXT weekend. 10 bucks and I can shoot all day. Elevated platforms, differing yardage. I will be taking advantage of that as well as practicing in the back yard.
My hunting ethics are fine. If I'm not ready, I won't shoot.
Oh, who am I kidding. If that sucker steps out at less than 75 yards, I'm flinging carbon and steel, baby.
It's funny, when he told me it was set up factory at 70 lbs, I got scared. "Oh no, this dude is fixing to see me try to pull this sucker back, and with my chest cage bearing a remarkable resemblance to that of a small squirrel, I'm gonna grunt and sweat and not get the sucker at full draw."
Lo and behold, not only could I draw it fine, but I didn't have to do that "point at the sky and draw a rainbow" sweeping motion to exert the effort to draw it. I surprised myself that it drew straight back, with my left hand staying anchored straight in front of me.
Now, my pa-in-law has a 72? 75? lb bow that's about 25 years old, and I can't draw that thing back without looking like I'm trying to hump it. I guess these new type cams really do take a lot of the effort out of it.
Is that what that is? :tooth:
Bow shop dude recommended a buckle rather than velcro. Said velcro made a "riiippp" sound on him ONCE, and it was enough to cause him to miss a chance at a deer. That may have been complete bullcrap, but I was sold.
I completely agree with him. Had a Velcro release. Got rid of it in favor of a bucle for that very reason. Didn't lose a deer to it, but after practicing with it a handful of times, it didn't take much thinking to realize the possibility.
See, now why can't I go bow hunting with HER? She's INFINITELY more attractive than my pa-in-law.
Yeah, colored boxers hide the stains better.
Me too. I'm thinking of taking the other two off. They don't do anything that I can tell.
It's common to pull your hand back to the corner of your jaw, or even your ear. The release adds length. You can probably shorten the release, if you want. Just make sure you pick a point that works, and stick with it. I lay my thumb along my jaw, with the web of my hand right at the corner of my jaw.
As for the arrows. You can turn the knocks any way you want. You want the off colored (cock) feather UP (12:00) for a whisker biskit. The black fibers are really, really hard, and you don't want any vanes running through them. Watch for the right hand vane hitting the string, you might need to twist knock to so that the cock feather is about 1:00 or so to clear the string.
Thanks. The release is in its shortest position, but what I did was buckle the wrist strap a couple notches tighter, that shortened the pull some. Still not sure about the peep but I'll take some pics later.
Why are the black whiskers different colored and why are they so much stiffer?
No problem, Gingerly.
There's about 20 different guys on here who've loaned you a bow recently........that's just the one you liked the most. :tooth:
Umm. . .negative on the naked archery. We have arm-guards for a reason. The gals who shoot bows have optional chest guards for a reason. There are certain things you DO NOT want to get caught up in wheels and pulleys that can move an arrow out at over 300FPS. Just sayin'. . .
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
Are you suggestign that one might get their...hootus...caught up in the werks?
One would have to be rather....well endowed and shooting at a rather steep incline to get oneself caught in the works. Are you professing that this individual is such?
If you want a hand regarding how you aquired the bow, I will send you some wrapping paper with some postmarked NZ stamps on, along with a couple of 'local' brand ( Made in NZ) pairs of boxer shorts to add credibility to your story. I just need to know if you want 'New in the packet' or 'Used With Stains' and the size............
Nice bow by the way. :up:
^^^This.
You have to pick your draw point, though. It has to be the same, exact, spot, every time. Then, the peep should be right in front of your eye. The peep should just outline the outer edge of your sight ring.
Like Chris said, your bow shop should have done this, and explained it. They should have set the bow up for YOU, and you only. If they didn't, you might want to find another shop. A good bow shop is invaluable.
There is;
Bold.
Sneak.
Or just nice
Ah! Good point. I would agree that he is probably in no danger. :-)
The bow shop did set it up for me. He measured my draw, had me draw and see if the peep was good, cut my arrows, etc. He did fine. I just didn't know enough at the time to know any better. He did serve the peep as well.
After drawing it quite a bit, I'm thinking the peep is ok. Tightening the wrist strap helped immensely with shortening the draw. Fixin' to try the eyes closed bit and see what that does.
You want the string touching the tip of your nose, when you draw. Being a good shot with a bow is pretty much a matter of lining all your draw points up, exactly the same, every time. Pull the trigger just like a rifle. You don't want to squeeze the grip, but rather, when you draw the bow, open up your grip hand, so that the bow is pulled against the web of your hand. Follow through. When you fire, the bow should basically fall out of your hands. You should get a wrist strap. It's much easier mentally to open up your grip with a wrist strap.
Squeezing the grip torques the bow, and can make shots erratic.
My hands and arms are sore.