Broad axes that are single bevel because of the tracking. They are for making beams out of timber. For a right-hand user, the bevel is on the right. For making a log cabin (square or flat on the outside/inside logs) you can see the chop marks on the logs...you cut the depth with about any axe, and then flatten the timber with a single bevel axe. Cutting along its length. This is pre-sawmill. My broad-hatchet is large and I use it for making a more or less square (flat) edge on bow staves.
Blades are intended for either chopping or slicing depending on the angle of the blade. Japanese swords were made for slicing flesh, swords for defeating armor and battle axes where made for chopping through heavy iron. Steep angles. A kukri is made for chopping through flesh/bone, a general weapon. General purpose knives are double-bevel. Filet knives are double bevel. I have never seen a pocket knife with a single bevel. It's an interesting concept. Straight razors are double bevel although you use them usually in the right hand.
My sources are "The Book of the Sword," by Richard Francis Burton. The main difference between a knife and a sword is the length of the blade.
My Japanese chef's knife is double edged and is a general purpose knife, both meat and veggies. It's very sharp.
Concealed carry is for protection, open carry is for attention.
Y'all ever see how the Japanese make Samurai swords....even if you don't like blades/swords anyone can appreciate the craftsmanship and time they used to and still put into making one. Just amazing. The real deal would cost you thousands.
It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
Based on the recommendations, I just received my Kershaw Blur.
I opted for the 30sv blade, and black color with the speed safe assist.
Initially, I thought it may be too big for my EDC, but it guys nicely in my pocket with my wallet. Although the speed safe is an awesome feature, I'm a little hesitant due to New Jersey regulations banning mechanical operated knives and gravity knives. Although this doesn't fit either category, I just read that in some cases, cops have been known to "manipulate" the knife to act as either. So far there are no regulations against the assist knife, I'm sure it's not far off. Either way, I'm carrying it.
On another note, I find single bevels much easier to sharpen.
I have a set of two cherries bench chisels that have a mirror finish on them. Sharpening is easy, especially with a jig. Set the bevel angle, and work from 320 to 8000 grit, flipping the chisel every 10 strokes.
By definition, a sharp edge is the perfect intersection of two angles, and if one of them is perfectly flat, easy peasy. This double bevel will take some time to to sharpen until I get the hang of it. Then again, as stated, how sharp I'll actually need it is still up in the air, as rope and cardboard etc aren't that resistant.
Thanks again fellas.
Speaking of folding knives.......... does anybody know what the torx size is on the Kershaw knives? I'm looking to buy a set of screwdrivers for those real small screws. Thanks.
Replies
Blades are intended for either chopping or slicing depending on the angle of the blade. Japanese swords were made for slicing flesh, swords for defeating armor and battle axes where made for chopping through heavy iron. Steep angles. A kukri is made for chopping through flesh/bone, a general weapon. General purpose knives are double-bevel. Filet knives are double bevel. I have never seen a pocket knife with a single bevel. It's an interesting concept. Straight razors are double bevel although you use them usually in the right hand.
My sources are "The Book of the Sword," by Richard Francis Burton. The main difference between a knife and a sword is the length of the blade.
My Japanese chef's knife is double edged and is a general purpose knife, both meat and veggies. It's very sharp.
Learned that the other day. You don't sharpen those, you strop 'em.
Huh? The blade has to be beveled at the edge. Do you mean the blade isn't hollow ground?
Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
No. They have a large primary bevel that runs the width of the blade from edge to spine. No secondary bevel like most all other knives.
I opted for the 30sv blade, and black color with the speed safe assist.
Initially, I thought it may be too big for my EDC, but it guys nicely in my pocket with my wallet. Although the speed safe is an awesome feature, I'm a little hesitant due to New Jersey regulations banning mechanical operated knives and gravity knives. Although this doesn't fit either category, I just read that in some cases, cops have been known to "manipulate" the knife to act as either. So far there are no regulations against the assist knife, I'm sure it's not far off. Either way, I'm carrying it.
I have a set of two cherries bench chisels that have a mirror finish on them. Sharpening is easy, especially with a jig. Set the bevel angle, and work from 320 to 8000 grit, flipping the chisel every 10 strokes.
By definition, a sharp edge is the perfect intersection of two angles, and if one of them is perfectly flat, easy peasy. This double bevel will take some time to to sharpen until I get the hang of it. Then again, as stated, how sharp I'll actually need it is still up in the air, as rope and cardboard etc aren't that resistant.
Thanks again fellas.
DPRMD