Learn me on folding knives

2»

Replies

  • LinefinderLinefinder Moderator Posts: 4,692 Senior Member
    Well....that explains that!

    Thanks for the info, Wambli.

    Mike
    "Walking away seems to be a lost art form."
    N454casull
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 10,321 Senior Member
    Scapels aren't single-beveled. Plus it takes grinding to convert a double bevel to a single bevel. I don't think you can do it with a stone. I'm not sure, but I think a single bevel as in the illustration is ground for a right-handed user. (Think about this.) I have a broad hatchet that's suitable for a right handed user. I met a guy at an archery meet who had one just like it where the angle was on the left for a right-handed user, and he complained that it bounced off wood he was trying to chop. I advised him to reverse the handle, but I'm not totally sure he believed me.

    And Japanese swords were double beveled. A single bevel is good for a shear, like a scissors, but with a steeper angle. The steeper the angle, the more the blade is fit for chopping/shearing, like an axe. I like a double-bevel, thin (narrow angle) blade on a knife for general use. If I was a sushi chef, I might think differently.
    Not too many problems you can't fix
    With a 1911 and a 30-06
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 10,321 Senior Member
    Broad axes that are single bevel because of the tracking. They are for making beams out of timber. For a right-hand user, the bevel is on the right. For making a log cabin (square or flat on the outside/inside logs) you can see the chop marks on the logs...you cut the depth with about any axe, and then flatten the timber with a single bevel axe. Cutting along its length. This is pre-sawmill. My broad-hatchet is large and I use it for making a more or less square (flat) edge on bow staves.

    Blades are intended for either chopping or slicing depending on the angle of the blade. Japanese swords were made for slicing flesh, swords for defeating armor and battle axes where made for chopping through heavy iron. Steep angles. A kukri is made for chopping through flesh/bone, a general weapon. General purpose knives are double-bevel. Filet knives are double bevel. I have never seen a pocket knife with a single bevel. It's an interesting concept. Straight razors are double bevel although you use them usually in the right hand.

    My sources are "The Book of the Sword," by Richard Francis Burton. The main difference between a knife and a sword is the length of the blade.

    My Japanese chef's knife is double edged and is a general purpose knife, both meat and veggies. It's very sharp.
    Not too many problems you can't fix
    With a 1911 and a 30-06
  • BuffcoBuffco Senior Member Posts: 6,244 Senior Member
    Carving knives aren't beveled. They are flat ground.

    Learned that the other day. You don't sharpen those, you strop 'em.
  • Gene LGene L Senior Member Posts: 10,321 Senior Member
    Buffco wrote: »
    Carving knives aren't beveled. They are flat ground.

    Learned that the other day. You don't sharpen those, you strop 'em.

    Huh? The blade has to be beveled at the edge. Do you mean the blade isn't hollow ground?
    Not too many problems you can't fix
    With a 1911 and a 30-06
  • Big ChiefBig Chief Senior Member Posts: 32,995 Senior Member
    Y'all ever see how the Japanese make Samurai swords....even if you don't like blades/swords anyone can appreciate the craftsmanship and time they used to and still put into making one. Just amazing. The real deal would cost you thousands.
    It's only true if it's on this forum where opinions are facts and facts are opinions
    Words of wisdom from Big Chief: Flush twice, it's a long way to the Mess Hall
    I'd rather have my sister work in a whorehouse than own another Taurus!
  • BuffcoBuffco Senior Member Posts: 6,244 Senior Member
    Gene L wrote: »
    Huh? The blade has to be beveled at the edge. Do you mean the blade isn't hollow ground?

    No. They have a large primary bevel that runs the width of the blade from edge to spine. No secondary bevel like most all other knives.
  • agewonagewon Senior Member Posts: 655 Senior Member
    Based on the recommendations, I just received my Kershaw Blur.
    I opted for the 30sv blade, and black color with the speed safe assist.
    Initially, I thought it may be too big for my EDC, but it guys nicely in my pocket with my wallet. Although the speed safe is an awesome feature, I'm a little hesitant due to New Jersey regulations banning mechanical operated knives and gravity knives. Although this doesn't fit either category, I just read that in some cases, cops have been known to "manipulate" the knife to act as either. So far there are no regulations against the assist knife, I'm sure it's not far off. Either way, I'm carrying it.
  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 19,018 Senior Member
    Linefinder wrote: »
    Unless, of course, you take knife sharpening to the same degree as benchrest shooting. If so, all bets are off.

    Mike
    That would be me :tooth:

    Yes, a truly "sharp" knife dulls faster than one less sharp (of the same quality and hardness of steel and same sharpening angle) up to a point. It's quite simple actually, the sharper a knife is, the thinner the actual edge is. Thinner means less metal supporting the edge, so it can deform and "dull" the edge easier.


    agewon, honestly, I'm not a huge Kershaw fan and only own one (my preferred maker is Benchmade), HOWEVER, with the s30v bladed version you bought (same as my only Kershaw) I believe you'll be quite happy with it
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


  • agewonagewon Senior Member Posts: 655 Senior Member
    On another note, I find single bevels much easier to sharpen.
    I have a set of two cherries bench chisels that have a mirror finish on them. Sharpening is easy, especially with a jig. Set the bevel angle, and work from 320 to 8000 grit, flipping the chisel every 10 strokes.
    By definition, a sharp edge is the perfect intersection of two angles, and if one of them is perfectly flat, easy peasy. This double bevel will take some time to to sharpen until I get the hang of it. Then again, as stated, how sharp I'll actually need it is still up in the air, as rope and cardboard etc aren't that resistant.
    Thanks again fellas.
  • sherwoodsherwood Senior Member Posts: 1,215 Senior Member
    Speaking of folding knives.......... does anybody know what the torx size is on the Kershaw knives? I'm looking to buy a set of screwdrivers for those real small screws. Thanks.
    I may be old but I ain't dead!
    DPRMD
  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 19,018 Senior Member
    sherwood wrote: »
    Speaking of folding knives.......... does anybody know what the torx size is on the Kershaw knives? I'm looking to buy a set of screwdrivers for those real small screws. Thanks.
    Same size that Benchmade uses....
    Not trying to be a smart-ash, I honestly don't know what # it is.
    I bought one of these at the HomeDepot close to TimC's house when the clip on my Griptillian got lose (Also bought some blue loc-tite)
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-IN-1-Torx-Screwdriver-Set-74502/100087664

    $6 and it fits all my knives, Burris scope rings, the little screws that hold hard drives together
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


Sign In or Register to comment.
Magazine Cover

GET THE MAGAZINE Subscribe & Save

Temporary Price Reduction

SUBSCRIBE NOW

Give a Gift   |   Subscriber Services

PREVIEW THIS MONTH'S ISSUE

GET THE NEWSLETTER Join the List and Never Miss a Thing.

Get the top Guns & Ammo stories delivered right to your inbox every week.