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Hey Teach! Cast boolits!!!

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Replies

  • Elk creekElk creek Senior Member Posts: 7,365 Senior Member
    tennmike wrote: »
    Siler flintlock locks. Good, bad, indifferent?

    Good!!! Preassembled or kit? Either way good stuff. The assembled ones have a pre-hardened frizzen.
    What model?
    Aim higher, or get a bigger gun.
  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 27,457 Senior Member
    Elk creek wrote: »
    Good!!! Preassembled or kit? Either way good stuff. The assembled ones have a pre-hardened frizzen.
    What model?

    I'm looking at buying all the pieces and putting it together. I have the stock now; it's a Tennessee Mountain rifle stock. And the iron buttplate and nosepiece. I just need a good quality lock, and a barrel and breech plug with tang to get started. The barrel is giving me fits. I decided I want a .36 cal. this afternoon. No luck on .32 or .36 barrels. I need to get with Teach and Woodsrunner on their sources of barrels. They know where the good stuff is made.
      I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer”
    ― Douglas Adams
  • Elk creekElk creek Senior Member Posts: 7,365 Senior Member
    Green mountain barrels, are good production barrels. Never mind no 36's
    Aim higher, or get a bigger gun.
  • TeachTeach Senior Member Posts: 18,428 Senior Member
    Siler is definitely a good brand! They offer several shapes and sizes of lockplates, and the .32 or .36 rifle would look best with a fairly small lock. For a barrel, I'd recommend Ed Rayl from Gassaway W. Virginia. He builds all my chunk gun barrels, and he will make any shape, length, or size barrel you want. I believe most of Woodsrunner's high-dollar replicas have Rayl barrels. Ed usually stays backlogged 10-12 months on orders, so be prepared to wait a while. His barrels come completely finished internally, hand-lapped and ready to shoot. I usually do a little draw-filing and polishing on the exterior, and apply either a browned or hot water blued finish. When you order a flint barrel, he includes a generic-style breech plug, but you can special order a long or wide tang if you want to custom-shape the tang to suit your fancy. No flash hole- - - -that gets added after the barrel and the lock are final-fitted to the stock. I don't think Ed has a website- - - - -I'll see if I can find one of the flyers he hands out at muzzleloader shows listing his phone number and mailing address. Be persistent when you call him- - - -if the machinery is running he can't hear the phone ring!
    Jerry

    Edit:

    Ed Rayl Rifle Barrels
    PO Box 91
    Gassaway W. Virginia 26624

    (304) 364-8269
  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 27,457 Senior Member
    Teach wrote: »
    Siler is definitely a good brand! They offer several shapes and sizes of lockplates, and the .32 or .36 rifle would look best with a fairly small lock. For a barrel, I'd recommend Ed Rayl from Gassaway W. Virginia. He builds all my chunk gun barrels, and he will make any shape, length, or size barrel you want. I believe most of Woodsrunner's high-dollar replicas have Rayl barrels. Ed usually stays backlogged 10-12 months on orders, so be prepared to wait a while. His barrels come completely finished internally, hand-lapped and ready to shoot. I usually do a little draw-filing and polishing on the exterior, and apply either a browned or hot water blued finish. When you order a flint barrel, he includes a generic-style breech plug, but you can special order a long or wide tang if you want to custom-shape the tang to suit your fancy. No flash hole- - - -that gets added after the barrel and the lock are final-fitted to the stock. I don't think Ed has a website- - - - -I'll see if I can find one of the flyers he hands out at muzzleloader shows listing his phone number and mailing address. Be persistent when you call him- - - -if the machinery is running he can't hear the phone ring!
    Jerry

    Edit:

    Ed Rayl Rifle Barrels
    PO Box 91
    Gassaway W. Virginia 26624

    (304) 364-8269

    Thanks for the info. I'll give him a call. I might luck out and he'll have a stray that is the right caliber laying around.

    About the Siler locks i looked at. The one I really liked is small and recommended for .32-.36 caliber rifles. It looks well made from the pictures.
      I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer”
    ― Douglas Adams
  • TeachTeach Senior Member Posts: 18,428 Senior Member
    The REAL bullets arrived today- - - - -looking good! I double-checked the twist rate on the barrel, and it is a 1:48". I got it installed today, under barrel pin lugs, sights, and rough-fitted the dovetail barrel tang to the stock. It will need a little more metal/wood shaping to get a good fit, and I just might fudge a little and AcraGlas the barrel to the stock. One test shot with a patched round ball put a hole in a 2-gallon oil jug at 75 yards, so the sights are at least in the ballpark.

    What powder charge are you using with the .45 conicals?
    Jerry
  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 27,457 Senior Member
    In the T/C caplock and the inline(the inline is a carbine and I have a scope on it) I have, I use a 70 grain charge. .45/70? :tooth: It's hunting accuracy at 75 yards, but not chunk gun accuracy. Realistically, somewhere in the 60-75 grain range should find you a sweet spot for that 1:48 twist barrel(same twist as my T/C). I've shot both at up to 90 grains, but accuracy suffers too much. I hope you get it finished in time to take a few of the 4 hooved mice when season opens! :up:

    I'll probably use the inline carbine this year because of the scope. My eyesight isn't getting any better, and I want to put the bullet where it does the most good. The scope lets me do that. With the .32 I can just hunt with my bifocal reading glasses so I can see the sights. With them, anything past 25 yards gets really fuzzy, but most of the squirrels are much closer than that, so it's all good.
      I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer”
    ― Douglas Adams
  • TeachTeach Senior Member Posts: 18,428 Senior Member
    Hmmmm- - - -I was using a .45-70 case as a powder measure for the .50 barrel with a PRB, so I'll try that one with the conicals to see what happens. I can always take a file to the case if I need a slightly lower charge for the .45.
    Jerry
  • tennmiketennmike Senior Member Posts: 27,457 Senior Member
    That ought to work pretty good. From what I remember, a black powder charge that isn't dropped into a 45/70 case from a long tube weighs around 70-75 grains full to the top of the case. Depends on the powder granulation. It's a good starting point, though. It sure would be a fine thing if that 45/70 case powder measure worked out for both weight bullets.
      I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer”
    ― Douglas Adams
  • Elk creekElk creek Senior Member Posts: 7,365 Senior Member
    Hey, I like your "major award" on your bench, way cool.
    Aim higher, or get a bigger gun.
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