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woodsrunner wrote: »
The video DOES point out something that all flintlock shooters-those presently using a flintlock and those wanting to-need to see and understand how to correct!
Notice when he pulls the trigger on the deer there is a very audible KLACK then about half a second later a BOOM! Almost everyone accepts this as the norm when pulling the trigger, but it is totally WRONG! There should be NO AUDITABLE DIFFERENCE as there is in this video. If the frizzen is properly tempered and if the flint is properly knapped and set in the hammer jaws at the proper angle striking the frizzen correctly, the charge in the chamber will have ignited and have the ball at or beyond the muzzle BEFORE the flint has totally fallen to the bottom of the frizzen. Thousandts of a second....not the CLACK..POOF..BOOM seen/heard here! Recent high speed photography proves this....this isn't just me running my mouth!
Teach wrote: »
"Tuning" involves knapping and adjusting the position of the flint so it strikes the frizzen in the proper place to deliver the most effective shower of sparks to the priming powder in the pan at the correct time. The hardness of the frizzen is also very important- - - -the harder the better, but only on the surface. A frizzen that's hard all the way through would be in danger of shattering when the flint strikes it. I use Kasenit to surface-harden the frizzen to spark well, but still be tough and flexible on the inside.
The cheap lock on my old Traditions flinter took a lot of work to be even partly reliable. The fizzen was way too soft, and it was hard to keep the flint in the proper position to strike reliable sparks. I'm considering fitting a high-quality Siler lock to it that I had set aside for another project, but the lock would just about double the value of the rifle!
Six-Gun wrote: »
You should not be getting that hang fire issue with a caplock. Teach will attest that with a sharp flint and properly set up pan charge, my flinter will discharge the instant you can decipher the first millisecond of the flint hitting the frizzen. The issue could be a number of things, not the least of which is using anything other than real black powder as your propellant. Even Pyrodex has a significantly higher flash point than real BP. Also, a little tip teach taught me with the caplock is to carefully lower the hammer - slowly - onto the cap after you seat it and press the hammer down firmly to max out the seating. Obviously, you need to be careful and keep the gun pointed in a safe direction and completely control the hammer to avoid an accidental discharge, but it can help your ignition.
Teach wrote: »
Snake- - - -Midway sells Ballistol! Leave those other moose juice products alone, and RUN- - -DO NOT WALK away from the WD-40! Never, ever, put a petroleum-based product into a smokepole!
Shooting a smokepole with synthetic powder is as messed up as dating a chick with plastic boobs, IMHO!
Varmintmist wrote: »
Something like this.http://vid657.photobucket.com/albums/uu295/Varmintmist/flinter_zpsfu6uis6b.mp4
One day I will learn to knap flint.
Fizz in a caplock?? Don't know for sure, but it sure sounds like the flame channel is plugged or the pyrodex is migrating into it. Unless you never wiped the oil out. Then you are trying to burn vegetable oil and powder. Just for kicks, swab your barrel with a alcohol soaked patch before you load. Get the oil out.
How about a nipple pick??
Don't get all excited turning the hose on that thing. All you have to do, is get the powder residue WET. Just wet. 3-5 wet patches are more than enough. Then you have to get it dry - dry patches. Water Displacement 40 is your friend. A couple patches wet with wd40, the ndry patch. Store with a decent lube. Ballistol is great, Rem oil, 3 in 1.... whatever. Take the lock off and pour boiling water over it. Thats so the hidden areas will dry (heat) then hit it with wd40, then lube.
The guy who built my barrel was the son of the guy who built the rifle. They are the guys who told me how to clean it. It isnt a real project, just common sense.
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