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BigDanS
Senior MemberPosts: 6,992 Senior Member
Stock repair guys - setting time for epoxy?

I have a Marlin 336 stock with a pretty good split at the receiver through part of the pistol grip. It's a 1961 Model 336 in .35 Remington that appears to be pretty close to original. The previous owner drilled out the bullseye and replaced it with swivel ( what a doofus!) I am trying to keep the old girl as original as possible.
I was able to spread it out with a screw driver and get a decent amount of 4 minute Loctite epoxy inside most areas. When I clamped it down there was excellent seepage around all of the exterior portions of the crak which makes me believe I got it into almost everywhere I wanted. I have it clamped right now.
The label says "able to be worked in 20 minutes" but I don't believe it.
What is your opinion on the clamp time? I am thinking 24 hours.
If this repair does not work I will need to drop $75 on a new butt stock.
D
I was able to spread it out with a screw driver and get a decent amount of 4 minute Loctite epoxy inside most areas. When I clamped it down there was excellent seepage around all of the exterior portions of the crak which makes me believe I got it into almost everywhere I wanted. I have it clamped right now.
The label says "able to be worked in 20 minutes" but I don't believe it.
What is your opinion on the clamp time? I am thinking 24 hours.
If this repair does not work I will need to drop $75 on a new butt stock.
D
"A patriot is mocked, scorned and hated; yet when his cause succeeds, all men will join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." Mark Twain
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
Replies
― Douglas Adams
I'm not sure, but when I have used bedding kits on rifles and bedded the actions in, the directions said 3 days before removing the barreled action from the stock. Also, if it's below 70 degrees remove it to an area that is at least 75 degrees and it will cure faster.
Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
JAY
JAY
Jerry
I was able to take my Exacto knives and remove the excess squeezed out epoxy on the interior wood surfaces cleanly and bore out the stock screw hole in the wood.
If you are familiar with the 336 stock, torqueing the front of the stock by putting too much pressure on it can cause it to split, and this one split top to bottom on the right side. I was able to stick a screw driver into the crack and open it up about 1/4 inch and the two part epoxy came with a nozzle that helped me get it inside. I had looked for a wide needle to inject it into the crack but this was as close as I could find at the time.
I'll post up some pic's and the results in a few days.
Thank you for the sage advice.
D
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
Notice the nozzles on the right side of the packaging. So far this has worked well.
D
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
True.
Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
Here is the top of the stock and crack in glue up.
And the entire stock in glue up:
Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.... now who's bringing the hot wings? :jester:
It will probably work but Acraglass cures slower and stronger. I keep me a little in bulk here all the time. And if you bed a rifle their blue colored mold release works great. I've never stuck an action with it.
Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
Good luck.
Most Marlins have the bullseye drilled out for a sling swivel. This is good, in a way, because it's easily replaced to bring the rifle back to original. I've replaced a few of these, just file it to the contour of the stock, proud of the stock, pull it out, put on the epoxy and drive it in so it matches.