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How do you confirm the zero on your hunting guns?
When none of my loads have changed,(like this year) I normally take multiple rifles to the range with me, fire 1 fouling shot from each (I clean them after the season) and let them cool back down to ambient temperature while I am fouling the next.
Once they're all fouled, I sit back, have a cig and wait for the first one to finish cooling. Then I fire one round, if it hits where I want it too, I know nothing has changed from the last time I zeroed it, and that the cold/fouled bore shot should be right where it needs to be when "hair" is in the scope. If it's off, I fire a second to see if it was me, or the rifle's scope, adjust if needed and let it cool again. Next gun, repeat etc etc until all have either been confirmed to being good to go, OR any that had to have adjustments have cooled and then be confirmed.
My AR Grendel is the only rifle I have that "throws" the first shot from a clean, cold bore. It's consistently 1.25" low and 0.75" left. HOWEVER, from a cold, fouled bore, the first shot is "right there" with the rest of them. So I prefer leaving the bore fouled on my hunting rifles until the end of the season (unless I get caught in a rain shower, then I'll clean and dry it, and plan on firing a fouling shot at my earliest opportunity.
So with hunting season rapidly approaching, how do you confirm the zero on your hunting guns?
(I didn't say "rifles" because I know I'm not the only one here that hunts with a specialty pistol)
Once they're all fouled, I sit back, have a cig and wait for the first one to finish cooling. Then I fire one round, if it hits where I want it too, I know nothing has changed from the last time I zeroed it, and that the cold/fouled bore shot should be right where it needs to be when "hair" is in the scope. If it's off, I fire a second to see if it was me, or the rifle's scope, adjust if needed and let it cool again. Next gun, repeat etc etc until all have either been confirmed to being good to go, OR any that had to have adjustments have cooled and then be confirmed.
My AR Grendel is the only rifle I have that "throws" the first shot from a clean, cold bore. It's consistently 1.25" low and 0.75" left. HOWEVER, from a cold, fouled bore, the first shot is "right there" with the rest of them. So I prefer leaving the bore fouled on my hunting rifles until the end of the season (unless I get caught in a rain shower, then I'll clean and dry it, and plan on firing a fouling shot at my earliest opportunity.
So with hunting season rapidly approaching, how do you confirm the zero on your hunting guns?
(I didn't say "rifles" because I know I'm not the only one here that hunts with a specialty pistol)
Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.
Replies
Dang! Now you tell me.
Kidding aside, if I've been working up a load, zeroing is pretty much already done by the time season rolls around. Otherwise, I'll do something like you describe or just shoot three from a cold, clean barrel. Shooting three from a cold, clean barrel often produces a flyer, but it gives me a good indication of whether or not zero has changed.
Gun control laws make about as much sense as taking ex-lax to cure a cough.
D-U-N
Same here. I will sometimes take my hunting guns to the range just to get trigger time but cos we don't have seasons for deer etc they get used regularly enough that any shift in zero would be noticed.
I will confirm zero however when I run short of that particular load and have loaded up some more.
Season ends: pull from stock, clean barrel, clean out any dust, leaves, and twigs, wipe down, reassemble, re-torque action screws. Dry out bore with alcohol and verify 200Y zero. Re-clean and put away.
Between seasons, if it gets shot at all, it will usually be with cast bullets (them Barnes TTSX's are pricey!), after which it just gets a Break Free scrub and a dry patch.
Season looms: Dry out the bore with alcohol and re-verify 200Y zero with the hunting ammo. If it's good, this takes three shots. Leave bore fouled until season close.
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
...shoot a couple foulers w/ the 'practice loads' going thru the 'rotation', shoot a couple 'hunting loads' to check the 200yd. 'zero'...
...shoot a couple @ 300yds. to verify 'drop' (.325 WSM)...
...double check 'em...
(OK Jayhawker, you can get the Chimpmonks out of their cage now! And I'll start the camp fire :jester:)
I hope seeing a few naked grown men won't offend you guys. You know the drill, we may have to dance naked around the camp fire, OMG I hope it's a full moon tonight, :tooth:
Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
Bear grease in the moonlight!!! Sounds kinda exotic don't it?
but only iffin you'll join us in your nakedness,
:vomit::nono::yikes::buff2:
:rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao:
Son that's somebody with nothing to do with his time but keep me in trouble with mom.
AKA: Former Founding Member
With all due respect....it depends on the rifle...I can tell you predictably and exactly the difference between a clean cold bore shot and a cold fouled bore shot with the Savage Sisters... a clean cold bore shot with the .300 WM will be 1" right and 1" high as soon as the barrel is foul, it will return to zero and stay that way until I clean it again. The .308 has it's own variances....and no...there are no "rough spots" in my barrels....
I do not see the same phenomenon with the Sharps or the High Wall....
Even with guns that don't change POI with a clean, cold bore, a cold bore shot from a clean barrel has, in EVERY rifle I've tried it in, has had a MUCH lower MV, than the same gun, same ammo, from a fouled cold bore.
I don't have a proven reason as to why, but my speculation is, that the carbon from the previous shot almost acts as a lubricant for the following bullet, reducing the friction some as opposed to bare guilding metal against bare, dry steel.