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To/too/two/to a d fro
Here's a question you don't hear often. How sharp an edge should you put on a fro? I bought this a few years back and just now made a handle for it. It appears to be hand forged but, even though it's one piece, the eye is arc welded, not forge welded. I may use it to split kindling but it will mostly be a wall hanger.
Hawk
Hawk
Replies
I might, just to see if I can.
You want it to bite into the wood right away where you place it and not bounce at the strike.
I admit I'm just guessing; but, I based the guess on other tools used make kindling----such as my negrito bolo and a hatchet.
Found this on the web. Apparently, you don't need to put an edge on the blade.
"Key to maintenance of the blade is, first of all, never hit it with anything but a wooden mallet. Secondly, it does not have to be sharp. It just has to have a blade that has the curved bevels shown but the edge must be dull. A flat of 1/32" on the edge is about right."
*Wrong. No edge and a good reason to not sharpen it.
http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping/Instructions.aspx?p=67296
Hawk
― Douglas Adams
A froe with a double convex blade is used more like a wedge to split shakes so it doesn't need to be sharp. A single bevel froe like you have is used to true beams and is kept sharp. Think of it as a really wide wood chisel. Sometimes a froe like that was used to start the beams and a draw knife was used to finish them.