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Repiping house in PEX

ilove22silove22s Senior MemberPosts: 1,390 Senior Member
greetings to you all.....

some background....

I need to repipe some or all of the house water pipes.  Right now there is mostly galv and some copper.  The galv is whats going bad for a while now.  Pressure and flow to the kitchen sink is way down.  Its more or less the furthest away from the HW tank too.  

Most is easily accessible via basement where HW tank is located and the main enters the house.

I know i could probably just replace the kitchen sink section, but i will probably replace all of the galv.  Will probably leave the copper as-is unless some leaks spring up in the copper during the replacement of the galv.

Ive been doing some research on fittings/adapter for the PEX.

I will most likely install a non-plastic C/H manifold when doing this.  I like that concept to shut off near the source, but will also add shut offs at the user point too.   I dont have a billion shut off valves to buy so price wise it will be ok.  And then the water connection lines from the shutoff to the user points will be replaced.  If found out along time ago, that unless they are newish, the tubing may crack or the gaskets are hard/worn, also, cost wise, not many to replace.

Most of the repiping will be done in the basement where no direct sunlight will happen and as mentioned most of the piping is easy to access via the basement.  

I do have to run some lines to the 2nd floor 1/2 bath, but that shouldnt be an issue since its more or less a straight run from 2nd floor to basement.

I may have to demo near the shutoffs to access those connections/fittings, so keeping things as-is wont be that much of an issue and adding any new mounting for the stub outs or any other method would be easier.


For any of you that have user experience with PEX and the fittings/adapters, i have some questions.....  

  • The copper stub outs with the flange appears to be 1 of 2 options to get from inside the wall to the outside user space.  But to me the attachment of the flange to the pipe appears to be crimped and not so robust?   Has anyone had issues with the pipe loosening from the flange?  I do like the idea of 1 less connection.
  • I know the other option is to do a 90 elbow with mounting ears from PEX to NPT or sweat.  

Im not going to try and do this in 1 shot and in no rush.  I will probably get in done in stages.  

Thank you for your time and hope everyone has a great holidays.


The ears never lie.

- Don Burt

Replies

  • JermanatorJermanator Senior Member Posts: 16,128 Senior Member
    I guess I am not understanding what you are calling a flange. PEX crimps/locking rings hold up wonderfully. No worries there.
    Reason obeys itself; and ignorance submits to whatever is dictated to it.
    -Thomas Paine
  • Johnny rebJohnny reb Member Posts: 601 Senior Member
    I think he’s talking about where he’s either has to use a threaded nipple or copper for his shut off valves. 
  • Johnny rebJohnny reb Member Posts: 601 Senior Member
    ilove22s said:
    greetings to you all.....

    some background....

    I need to repipe some or all of the house water pipes.  Right now there is mostly galv and some copper.  The galv is whats going bad for a while now.  Pressure and flow to the kitchen sink is way down.  Its more or less the furthest away from the HW tank too.  

    Most is easily accessible via basement where HW tank is located and the main enters the house.

    I know i could probably just replace the kitchen sink section, but i will probably replace all of the galv.  Will probably leave the copper as-is unless some leaks spring up in the copper during the replacement of the galv.

    Ive been doing some research on fittings/adapter for the PEX.

    I will most likely install a non-plastic C/H manifold when doing this.  I like that concept to shut off near the source, but will also add shut offs at the user point too.   I dont have a billion shut off valves to buy so price wise it will be ok.  And then the water connection lines from the shutoff to the user points will be replaced.  If found out along time ago, that unless they are newish, the tubing may crack or the gaskets are hard/worn, also, cost wise, not many to replace.

    Most of the repiping will be done in the basement where no direct sunlight will happen and as mentioned most of the piping is easy to access via the basement.  

    I do have to run some lines to the 2nd floor 1/2 bath, but that shouldnt be an issue since its more or less a straight run from 2nd floor to basement.

    I may have to demo near the shutoffs to access those connections/fittings, so keeping things as-is wont be that much of an issue and adding any new mounting for the stub outs or any other method would be easier.


    For any of you that have user experience with PEX and the fittings/adapters, i have some questions.....  

    • The copper stub outs with the flange appears to be 1 of 2 options to get from inside the wall to the outside user space.  But to me the attachment of the flange to the pipe appears to be crimped and not so robust?   Has anyone had issues with the pipe loosening from the flange?  I do like the idea of 1 less connection.
    • I know the other option is to do a 90 elbow with mounting ears from PEX to NPT or sweat.  

    Im not going to try and do this in 1 shot and in no rush.  I will probably get in done in stages.  

    Thank you for your time and hope everyone has a great holidays.


    If I’m understanding what you’re saying I would just use the fitting with the ears and anchor it to keep everything solid. 
  • Johnny rebJohnny reb Member Posts: 601 Senior Member
    I think this first photo is what he’s talking about with a flange. 2nd pic is the typical brass with ears. Either one will work just make sure either is anchored. 
  • JermanatorJermanator Senior Member Posts: 16,128 Senior Member
    I think this first photo is what he’s talking about with a flange. 2nd pic is the typical brass with ears. Either one will work just make sure either is anchored. 
    Yep. Both those options are solid if you attach them properly.
    Reason obeys itself; and ignorance submits to whatever is dictated to it.
    -Thomas Paine
  • ilove22silove22s Senior Member Posts: 1,390 Senior Member
    hey all,

    Sorry for not posting a photo of the stub out.
    I think this first photo is what he’s talking about with a flange. 2nd pic is the typical brass with ears. Either one will work just make sure either is anchored. 

    thanks Johnny reb,

    yes, the 1st photo is the one i was considering.

    To me it just doesnt seem robust to handle it.

    But if people have used them w/o any issue, i guess i will give them a shot.












    The ears never lie.

    - Don Burt
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