I also got the Ken Onion model. So far, it's done what I need it to do.
ETA - Really, although you can get a knife extremely sharp with one, I think their main use is to repair damaged edges or reset a bevel on a knife that you want a different angle on. Once you have the angle you want and have it sharp, you can maintain the edge with a fine stone or ceramic rod. If a blade becomes to damaged to touch up with a rod or fine stone, then back to the WS...
I've also read that you can use the super fine belt on the WS after it's completely worn out by using some Flitz metal polish and using it as a polishing belt. I picked up a tube of Flitz, but haven't tried it yet. My ultra fine belt isn't quite worn out yet, either..
I also got the Ken Onion model. So far, it's done what I need it to do.
Oh it absolutely does so splendidly. I have in my head that I might want to do some trial smaller knifes using stock removal just to learn and the Elite attachment would allow me to do so without a big investment in the big equipment.
Zorba, you might already know this, but in case you, or anyone else doesn't, if you print out this chart, grab a sharpie and write, "not super sharp but durable" across the top and "super sharp, but not durable" across the bottom.
Where you pick on that spectrum is personal preference. Here's a general rule of thumb that's important when deciding to go for a sharper, or more durable edge...Higher end blade steels can still have a durable edge with a finer bevel than a lower quality steel
Thanx for this - nope, didn't know it although it makes sense in retrospect. I'm pretty darn clueless regarding blade stuff. I just want the darn things sharp! I got the WorkSharp for my wife's Xmas present - with a guy (me) attached to it! She tells me when something is getting dull, and I sharpen it for her.
-Zorba, "The Veiled Male"
"If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."
Zorba, you might already know this, but in case you, or anyone else doesn't, if you print out this chart, grab a sharpie and write, "not super sharp but durable" across the top and "super sharp, but not durable" across the bottom.
Where you pick on that spectrum is personal preference. Here's a general rule of thumb that's important when deciding to go for a sharper, or more durable edge...Higher end blade steels can still have a durable edge with a finer bevel than a lower quality steel
Thanx for this - nope, didn't know it although it makes sense in retrospect. I'm pretty darn clueless regarding blade stuff. I just want the darn things sharp! I got the WorkSharp for my wife's Xmas present - with a guy (me) attached to it! She tells me when something is getting dull, and I sharpen it for her.
Sharpening a blade can be pure alchemy. Type of steel, heat treating, thickness/geometry of the blade and intended use all play a part. I’ve had a few blades that defied all logic but patience and experimenting got results. Just about every knife I get my hands on ends up with a different edge than what I got it with. My old knife maker knew my tastes and sharpened my customs accordingly! I cried when he retired... 😭
Yea, I know what you mean. When a true master of anything retires or passes on, the world is poorer for it.
Yep. This guy could freehand a blade for me on his belts in like ten minutes. PERFECTLY STRAIGHT edges right down the middle of the material. Most folks have no idea how TOUGH that is. When you look at many custom knives there is almost always a slight curve on the edge and it will bevel will favor one side over the other. This guy was like a machine.
He made most of my knives from rough sketches I emailed to him, some just from short phone calls.
Like he could read my mind. Every handle was perfectly shaped to my hand. Everything I designed and sent to him came back better than my original idea. That’s why you hire experts and get the hell out of their way...
GunNut said:That’s why you hire experts and get the hell out of their way...
Yep. So many people hire experts then micromanage them. I've had to explain on more than one occasion that "You're the one who knows what you're doing, go to it, I'm staying the Hell out of your way!"
-Zorba, "The Veiled Male"
"If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."
Knitepoet And Gunnut have it right. My skinning and fillet knives get only hand honed on super hard hi-quality stones since I never let them get "dull".
Kitchen knives, OTOH, see the Onion 2-3 times a year. A good steeling in between visits keeps them in good shape.
Like Gunnut, I'm rarely content with the factory bevel on new knives. I bought a Benchmade 710 Axis Lock in '97 and that was the damned hardest steel I've ever encountered. It's no exaggeration that I spent 100 hours hand honing to achieve the bevel I preferred. 10 minutes with the KO would have accomplished the same and you can "finish" sharpen it by any method you like.
I've never said the WorkSharp KO Edition was the final word in knife sharpening, but it sure lets you cut to the chase PDQ.
Mike
"Walking away seems to be a lost art form." N454casull
Knitepoet And Gunnut have it right. My skinning and fillet knives get only hand honed on super hard hi-quality stones since I never let them get "dull".
Kitchen knives, OTOH, see the Onion 2-3 times a year. A good steeling in between visits keeps them in good shape.
Like Gunnut, I'm rarely content with the factory bevel on new knives. I bought a Benchmade 710 Axis Lock in '97 and that was the damned hardest steel I've ever encountered. It's no exaggeration that I spent 100 hours hand honing to achieve the bevel I preferred. 10 minutes with the KO would have accomplished the same and you can "finish" sharpen it by any method you like.
I've never said the WorkSharp KO Edition was the final word in knife sharpening, but it sure lets you cut to the chase PDQ.
Mike
Exactly! I can fine tune things with stones in minutes but I’ll never have to spend an hour changing the bevel angle on a knife using stones again!!! Even repairing abuse edges is minutes which saves MY precious time.
Nice old Woodcraft, I'd say that it's '30's but the tang stamps and pommel nuts with tell the tale. I've never seen a Woodcraft down here but since getting keen on one and deciding to do something about it prices have skyrocketed on Marbles stuff.
Replies
ETA - Really, although you can get a knife extremely sharp with one, I think their main use is to repair damaged edges or reset a bevel on a knife that you want a different angle on. Once you have the angle you want and have it sharp, you can maintain the edge with a fine stone or ceramic rod. If a blade becomes to damaged to touch up with a rod or fine stone, then back to the WS...
I've also read that you can use the super fine belt on the WS after it's completely worn out by using some Flitz metal polish and using it as a polishing belt. I picked up a tube of Flitz, but haven't tried it yet. My ultra fine belt isn't quite worn out yet, either..
He made most of my knives from rough sketches I emailed to him, some just from short phone calls.
Mike
N454casull
Kitchen knives, OTOH, see the Onion 2-3 times a year. A good steeling in between visits keeps them in good shape.
Like Gunnut, I'm rarely content with the factory bevel on new knives. I bought a Benchmade 710 Axis Lock in '97 and that was the damned hardest steel I've ever encountered. It's no exaggeration that I spent 100 hours hand honing to achieve the bevel I preferred. 10 minutes with the KO would have accomplished the same and you can "finish" sharpen it by any method you like.
I've never said the WorkSharp KO Edition was the final word in knife sharpening, but it sure lets you cut to the chase PDQ.
Mike
N454casull
I've never seen a Woodcraft down here but since getting keen on one and deciding to do something about it prices have skyrocketed on Marbles stuff.