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Colt Officers Model in .38 with Roper stocks

CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior MemberPosts: 13,289 Senior Member
Have a look, any suggestions to clean up the barrel or any comments on the condition of the stocks? Seems tight and mechanically sound, my gunsmith is at the state high school trap tournament so I did not get anyone to give it the OK to shoot, $553 for the gun and $319 for the 10MM ammo.










 
I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
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Replies

  • Elk creekElk creek Senior Member Posts: 6,907 Senior Member
    Well aren’t you just a regular vacuum! 
    Aim higher, or get a bigger gun.
  • CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior Member Posts: 13,289 Senior Member
    edited June 17 #3
    If you count the hours I spent watching auctions, questioning Junk Collector and Big Al, and the 2 1/2 hours on the road and gas today, I got bent over :D

    But, I got some nice stuff.
    I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
  • BigslugBigslug Senior Member Posts: 8,632 Senior Member
    Scrubbing lightly with some brass wool liberally doused in Break Free does a pretty good job on getting rid of the active rust.  Pits are pits and there's nothing to be done about 'em, but I'd rather keep what's left of an OEM Colt finish than get a tragic re-blue done.

    NICE grips!
    WWJMBD?

    "Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
  • ZeeZee Senior Member Posts: 25,449 Senior Member
    I actually LIKE that Colt!!
    "To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
  • JunkCollectorJunkCollector Posts: 719 Senior Member
    Yup original Ropers.
    Got 800 + in grips there 
  • JayhawkerJayhawker Moderator Posts: 17,519 Senior Member
    Nice grab! Well done!
    Sharps Model 1874 - "The rifle that made the west safe for Winchester"
  • sakodudesakodude Senior Member Posts: 4,237 Senior Member
    Nice, as long as the lockup is tight I wouldn't hesitate to shoot that with light 38's
    Beautiful grips, want to trade :#
  • GunNutGunNut Posts: 7,642 Senior Member
    Damn you suck!!!! 🤬
    Old West Saying: God created men, but Col. Sam Colt made them equal.

    General George Patton:  “Watch what people are cynical about, and one can often discover what they lack.”

  • Diver43Diver43 Senior Member Posts: 11,591 Senior Member
    Oh yeah. Really NICE 
    Logistics cannot win a war, but its absence or inadequacy can cause defeat. FM100-5
  • earlyagainearlyagain Posts: 7,566 Senior Member
    Very nice!
    Id use a clean cotton cloth and light oil on the barrel for as long as it takes..
  • CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior Member Posts: 13,289 Senior Member
    edited June 17 #12
    Yup original Ropers.
    Got 800 + in grips there 
    Again, I would have had no clue without your posts here on grips. I assume these grips are aftermarket only, they were not factory options on an order? The serial number search I did pulled up multiple date ranges, any suggestions with that to get a solid date down? Any reason to contact Colt for a letter?
    I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
  • CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior Member Posts: 13,289 Senior Member
    sakodude said:
    Nice, as long as the lockup is tight I wouldn't hesitate to shoot that with light 38's
    Beautiful grips, want to trade :#
    For cash ;)
    I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
  • CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior Member Posts: 13,289 Senior Member
    Bigslug said:
    Scrubbing lightly with some brass wool liberally doused in Break Free does a pretty good job on getting rid of the active rust.  Pits are pits and there's nothing to be done about 'em, but I'd rather keep what's left of an OEM Colt finish than get a tragic re-blue done.

    NICE grips!
    Very nice!
    Id use a clean cotton cloth and light oil on the barrel for as long as it takes..
    Thanks, I will see what is on the gun bench and ask before I start in with the elbow grease.
    I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
  • CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior Member Posts: 13,289 Senior Member
    Zee said:
    I actually LIKE that Colt!!
    It is heavier than I thought it would be, points pretty good, have to see where the old school adjustable sights are lined up.
    I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
  • JunkCollectorJunkCollector Posts: 719 Senior Member
    CHIRO1989 said:
    Yup original Ropers.
    Got 800 + in grips there 
    Again, I would have had no clue without your posts here on grips. I assume these grips are aftermarket only, they were not factory options on an order? The serial number search I did pulled up multiple date ranges, any suggestions with that to get a solid date down? Any reason to contact Colt for a letter?
    Like they say never assume. 
    A few Registered magnums do letter as being outfitted with Ropers from the factory.

    I'm not sure about Colt but probably just a set or two there also.
    So not worth it IMHO
    Also the wear on the gun doesn't seem to match the grip condition. ...good thing for you. :smile:
  • GunNutGunNut Posts: 7,642 Senior Member
    CHIRO1989 said:
    Bigslug said:
    Scrubbing lightly with some brass wool liberally doused in Break Free does a pretty good job on getting rid of the active rust.  Pits are pits and there's nothing to be done about 'em, but I'd rather keep what's left of an OEM Colt finish than get a tragic re-blue done.

    NICE grips!
    Very nice!
    Id use a clean cotton cloth and light oil on the barrel for as long as it takes..
    Thanks, I will see what is on the gun bench and ask before I start in with the elbow grease.
    CLP or light oil and pure brass or copper scrub pad will not harm any remaining finish but will remove surface rust down to good metal.  You can also use 0000 steel wool as long as you have a light touch and stop as soon as the rust and stains are gone or you’ll go down to bare metal.
    Old West Saying: God created men, but Col. Sam Colt made them equal.

    General George Patton:  “Watch what people are cynical about, and one can often discover what they lack.”

  • CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior Member Posts: 13,289 Senior Member
    CHIRO1989 said:
    Yup original Ropers.
    Got 800 + in grips there 
    Again, I would have had no clue without your posts here on grips. I assume these grips are aftermarket only, they were not factory options on an order? The serial number search I did pulled up multiple date ranges, any suggestions with that to get a solid date down? Any reason to contact Colt for a letter?
    Like they say never assume. 
    A few Registered magnums do letter as being outfitted with Ropers from the factory.

    I'm not sure about Colt but probably just a set or two there also.
    So not worth it IMHO
    Also the wear on the gun doesn't seem to match the grip condition. ...good thing for you. :smile:
    GunNut said:
    CHIRO1989 said:
    Bigslug said:
    Scrubbing lightly with some brass wool liberally doused in Break Free does a pretty good job on getting rid of the active rust.  Pits are pits and there's nothing to be done about 'em, but I'd rather keep what's left of an OEM Colt finish than get a tragic re-blue done.

    NICE grips!
    Very nice!
    Id use a clean cotton cloth and light oil on the barrel for as long as it takes..
    Thanks, I will see what is on the gun bench and ask before I start in with the elbow grease.
    CLP or light oil and pure brass or copper scrub pad will not harm any remaining finish but will remove surface rust down to good metal.  You can also use 0000 steel wool as long as you have a light touch and stop as soon as the rust and stains are gone or you’ll go down to bare metal.
    Good info guys, thank you.
    I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
  • GunNutGunNut Posts: 7,642 Senior Member
    edited June 17 #19
    BTW with those guns (actually all revolvers), and assuming you'll be shooting mild/regular loads and chambers and bore is clear, to check if the gun is safe to fire all you have to do is:

    Always start by a thorough check for any cracks in the frame, cylinder chamber walls and barrel.  If there is anything big enough to notice on a center fire gun I'd say it disqualifies it as a shooter right there until you actually have a gunsmith recommend what to do.  If it's good then proceed to this checklist.

    1- Run your index and thumb the length of the barrel.  If there are ANY bulges you'll notice swiftly.  That does not mean the gun is unsafe but just note it.  Accuracy might suck.  If there is a bulge shine a light from the breech end and look down the bore, they usually show as a shinny ring.

    2- Then step the cylinder by pulling the hammer back through each stop/chamber and like you're going to fire SA And both while the hammer is at rest and then locked back in SA mode check for excessive movement of the cylinder side so side, front to back and wobble.  A little movement is normal, specially with an older gun.  A pronounced wobble and excessive front to back are more (bad) than just a little side to side off center (pretty normal).  But all of them are correctable.  A TINY amount of looseness between the crane and frame is ok but sloppy locking with a lot of movement is not.

    3- While you're doing that push the trigger forward firmly when it's in SA mode with your thumb.   you only have to do this once.  If it gives and falls you have a worn sear, again fixable but of note.  Probably a kitchen sink trigger job.

    4- Last and probably most critical, place your thumb on one side of the cylinder and your index finger on the other (holding the gun in the palm of your support hand) and exert light but firm pressure with both fingers against the cylinder to slow down its rotation so you have to work at pulling the hammer back to rotate the cylinder.  Work the hammer back to advance through all the chambers while keeping this pressure on.  The gun should advance and lock on every chamber.  If it skips it means a worn out gun.  Could be the cylinder/hand or both.  Again fixable but I would not shoot it until fixed.

    If the gun passes all these tests you are good to go.  There's nothing else that I can think off that any gunsmith is going to do for you when they test it.
    Old West Saying: God created men, but Col. Sam Colt made them equal.

    General George Patton:  “Watch what people are cynical about, and one can often discover what they lack.”

  • GunNutGunNut Posts: 7,642 Senior Member
    BTW, LLC calLGS has one of those for sale with the factory grips for $950!
    Old West Saying: God created men, but Col. Sam Colt made them equal.

    General George Patton:  “Watch what people are cynical about, and one can often discover what they lack.”

  • CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior Member Posts: 13,289 Senior Member
    GunNut said:
    BTW with those guns (actually all revolvers), and assuming you'll be shooting mild/regular loads and chambers and bore is clear, to check if the gun is safe to fire all you have to do is:

    Always start by a thorough check for any cracks in the frame, cylinder chamber walls and barrel.  If there is anything big enough to notice on a center fire gun I'd say it disqualifies it as a shooter right there until you actually have a gunsmith recommend what to do.  If it's good then proceed to this checklist.

    All seams in the gun are comparable to photos on the internet, does not appear to have cracks

    1- Run your index and thumb the length of the barrel.  If there are ANY bulges you'll notice swiftly.  That does not mean the gun is unsafe but just note it.  Accuracy might suck.  If there is a bulge shine a light from the breech end and look down the bore, they usually show as a shinny ring.

    No bulging noted

    2- Then step the cylinder by pulling the hammer back through each stop/chamber and like you're going to fire SA And both while the hammer is at rest and then locked back in SA mode check for excessive movement of the cylinder side so side, front to back and wobble.  A little movement is normal, specially with an older gun.  A pronounced wobble and excessive front to back are more (bad) than just a little side to side off center (pretty normal).  But all of them are correctable.  A TINY amount of looseness between the crane and frame is ok but sloppy locking with a lot of movement is not.

    Minimal to no front to back wobble and very slight side to side wobble, it locks up well

    3- While you're doing that push the trigger forward firmly when it's in SA mode with your thumb.   you only have to do this once.  If it gives and falls you have a worn sear, again fixable but of note.  Probably a kitchen sink trigger job.

    No give and the trigger did not fall

    4- Last and probably most critical, place your thumb on one side of the cylinder and your index finger on the other (holding the gun in the palm of your support hand) and exert light but firm pressure with both fingers against the cylinder to slow down its rotation so you have to work at pulling the hammer back to rotate the cylinder.  Work the hammer back to advance through all the chambers while keeping this pressure on.  The gun should advance and lock on every chamber.  If it skips it means a worn out gun.  Could be the cylinder/hand or both.  Again fixable but I would not shoot it until fixed.

    Cycled perfectly

    If the gun passes all these tests you are good to go.  There's nothing else that I can think off that any gunsmith is going to do for you when they test it.

    I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
  • CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior Member Posts: 13,289 Senior Member
    edited June 19 #22


    Here is what I have, probably some Hoppes somewhere too, anything I SHOULD NOT use on the Colt finish or anything you could recommend that I do not have besides CLP? 
    I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
  • CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior Member Posts: 13,289 Senior Member
    edited June 19 #23
    Test fired it, 6 rounds into an empty shotgun shell box at 7 yds, shoots 158gr at 850fps very nicely, light feeling recoil.
    I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
  • Diver43Diver43 Senior Member Posts: 11,591 Senior Member
    Awesone you found a good one
    Logistics cannot win a war, but its absence or inadequacy can cause defeat. FM100-5
  • earlyagainearlyagain Posts: 7,566 Senior Member
    The Rem oil should work. Id not use the gun scrubber or anything like that. Hoppes oil or solvent should work.
  • sakodudesakodude Senior Member Posts: 4,237 Senior Member
    Very nice, glad it shoots. If you end up flipping the Ropers let me know and I'll send you the other grips I have if you want them.
  • CHIRO1989CHIRO1989 Senior Member Posts: 13,289 Senior Member
    sakodude said:
    Very nice, glad it shoots. If you end up flipping the Ropers let me know and I'll send you the other grips I have if you want them.
    Thanks hey, I have been looking around on the internet, there are some cool reproductions out there too, I will have to get on it sooner than later.
    I take no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but rather that they turn away from their ways and live. Eze 33:11
  • GunNutGunNut Posts: 7,642 Senior Member
    Outsfreakingstanding!!!
    Old West Saying: God created men, but Col. Sam Colt made them equal.

    General George Patton:  “Watch what people are cynical about, and one can often discover what they lack.”

  • knitepoetknitepoet Senior Member Posts: 21,978 Senior Member
    Something that I learned from CPJ
     NOT TO USE...
     clr
    :smiley::D  ;) 
    Seven Habits of Highly Effective Pirates, Rule #37: There is no “overkill”. There is only “open fire” and “I need to reload”.


  • GunNutGunNut Posts: 7,642 Senior Member
    GunNut said:
    While you're doing that push the trigger forward firmly when it's in SA mode with your thumb.   you only have to do this once.  If it gives and falls you have a worn sear, again fixable but of note.
    I wanted to clarify I meant hammer not trigger (brain fart)?but I know you all figured that out.  I’m glad the gun passed all the tests!
    Old West Saying: God created men, but Col. Sam Colt made them equal.

    General George Patton:  “Watch what people are cynical about, and one can often discover what they lack.”

  • JunkCollectorJunkCollector Posts: 719 Senior Member
    CHIRO1989 said:
    sakodude said:
    Very nice, glad it shoots. If you end up flipping the Ropers let me know and I'll send you the other grips I have if you want them.
    Thanks hey, I have been looking around on the internet, there are some cool reproductions out there too, I will have to get on it sooner than later.
    What's the rush.
    Enjoy them for awhile 

    My suggestion is put that gun in a kroil AtF mix coveted for a week....agitate some then rub with the bronze wool.
    That rust will be mushy :smile:
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