Usually the blades are made of relatively soft steel so you can make small adjustments. It might have even gotten bent in shipping. I wouldn’t even try a vise. I’d cover the jaws of a regular set of pliers with several thicknesses of black electrician’s tape to make sure the serrations are not a factor in screwing up the finish, and just try to gently bend it just a hair. You are soooo close…
The formula is go slowly. If it doesn’t bend with relatively gentle pressure box it up and sent it to Ruger. Also work from 1/3 to halfway up the blade. Never try to bend at the weld.
Ya know. . .if they can pull off cheapening the Single Six, they can probably pull off cheapening the .22 version of the SP-101.
I'm getting near the point of being tempted by the standard grip version of this. A DA swing out, or even a DA loading gate for under $300 would get me there.
Ya know. . .if they can pull off cheapening the Single Six, they can probably pull off cheapening the .22 version of the SP-101.
I'm getting near the point of being tempted by the standard grip version of this. A DA swing out, or even a DA loading gate for under $300 would get me there.
It’s a pretty solid little plinker. If I can get that front sight lean sorted out, I’ll be damn happy with this gun for what it is. Inexpensive, gorgeous grips, and feels amazing in the hand.
"To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
The formula is go slowly. If it doesn’t bend with relatively gentle pressure box it up and sent it to Ruger. Also work from 1/3 to halfway up the blade. Never try to bend at the weld.
Are you sure I won’t have more control locking 1/3 of the sight in my vice and slowly turning the bulk of the gun?
"To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
Basically you want to avoid stressing the weld. I think with the pliers you can control where the pressure goes by leveraging force against the edge of the jaws. Tough to explain but you have to think in terms of bending the blade not the joint between the gun and blade if that makes sense. So whatever way you are more comfortable doing that is Ok.
I've done it in the past and it does work. In some cases, I noticed considerably slower lock time. If that isn't an issue, it does work and reduce the trigger pull weight.
I would note as far as lock time, that obviously has nothing to do with releasing one leg of the trigger spring. The article notes the possibility of clipping a coil or two off the hammer spring, which I have not done and personally wouldn't advise. I did do this procedure in combination with Wolf reduced weight hammer springs, which does affect lock time.
The poor man’s trigger job by moving one leg of the trigger return spring from the frame is a no cost work around. That says the leg of the spring that is not attached can and will drag on the hammer spring. In most of all cases no big deal, but it can interfere it conditions are right. Buy the wolf reduced springs, cheap insurance
I think - maybe - the answer to your front sight is a small pair of smooth-faced, parallel jaw pliers - - maybe two pairs. If you regularly change a lot of front sights on Glocks, they're really handy for straightening them on the slide after you get the screw tightened down, so you'll have at least that use after you're done.
Use one pair to hold the bottom at the barrel and the other to bend the top.
I started out with one hand on the pliers and migrated to two hands and some straining!! It ain’t gonna bend and I’m afraid any more umph and I’ll snap that sucker off!!
"To Hell with efficiency, it's performance we want!" - Elmer Keith
This deserves a thread of its own. They had me until they got to the part about 2' accuracy at 25 yds. If they could tighten that up, I would own one. Poor mans Wrangler. 😂
Replies
Ya know. . .if they can pull off cheapening the Single Six, they can probably pull off cheapening the .22 version of the SP-101.
I'm getting near the point of being tempted by the standard grip version of this. A DA swing out, or even a DA loading gate for under $300 would get me there.
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
-Mikhail Kalashnikov
https://gunblast.com/Poorboy.htm
I've done it in the past and it does work. In some cases, I noticed considerably slower lock time. If that isn't an issue, it does work and reduce the trigger pull weight.
Use one pair to hold the bottom at the barrel and the other to bend the top.
"Nothing is safe from stupid." - Zee
https://shoot-on.com/the-funnest-revolver-of-the-year/
-Mikhail Kalashnikov
Paul